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Old 03-11-2008, 05:51 PM   #6376
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Tex1 were you referring to the dogbone end or the CV end of the driveshaft?

LARS same question. Is that link for the dogbone and CV ends of the driveshaft?
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Old 03-11-2008, 07:36 PM   #6377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave.H View Post
Is the new chassis flat or is my new one bent?
sorry miss post
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:42 PM   #6378
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I was thinking of the dog bone end where you have to actually punch out and repress the pin in place.
Those kits just rebuild the CV couplers.
I use both and they work well.
A shaft alone will cost $15 - $20. I can repin it for about $1. I will repin the dog bone end three times before I throw them away.
Hope this helps.
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:57 PM   #6379
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do you guys have part numbers for the mugen or xray pins for the ends of the shaft that you are replacing ?

Thanks
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:39 AM   #6380
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Thanks Tex. So why 3 replacements? Why not longer? I would imagine the CV end would be pretty worn out by then also? Probabl wouldn't be round anymore.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:42 AM   #6381
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After three pins it becomes pretty apparent that the CV end sots are worn to the point that they are half moons instead of straight slots. Under acceleration this will cause the CV to want to straighten more and change how the car handles. Sure, you could run them but I just put new shafts in at that point. I race two times a week and get at least one or two practice days in.
With this, I have found the car will hold the drive train for about 8 months which is really good IMO.
The Mugen lasted about the same and the Xray seemed a little more longer wearing. The Kyosho was the best of the group.
I have worked with the Losi quite a while now and all in all, I would give it an A- in drive train durability.
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:53 AM   #6382
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PENDING on how big a motor u throw in of corse...I CANT COUNT how many guys run .28 in there 8ight....>RETARTED IMO....but w/e floats ur boat....i could see a Race .28...like ninja or something....but a SH or XTM or Picco/jammin....COMMMON...ur askin for a worn out drivetrain in NO time.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:23 PM   #6383
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Thanks for the info on the rebuild info now send me a link so I can pick up one of those tools to press the pins in the shafts.......thanks
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:58 PM   #6384
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here's 1 Amain has...but outta stock.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4355
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:12 PM   #6385
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jbmccoy, get yourself a Bone-saver tool. Mugen 13mm pins for outer drives and 12mm pins for centre drives.All from A-mains. Mugen pins seem to be slightly softer, they wear quicker and save your drive cups. Very quick and easy to replace pins. Remember to use locktite.
Hey Tex can you please help,my 8ight gets very hard to drive when the track gets rutty and blown out. I always think that the other buggies handle the ruff areas better.I am running the new chassis and more kick-up in the front.My 8ight weighs about 3270g,can weight be a problem?I run the Mike Truhe setup nitro pit setup,mostly.
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:58 AM   #6386
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I'll post some pics as to why I think this is happening. I threw my camera in the car today since I'm going to the track.
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:35 AM   #6387
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Does anyone run the aluminum knuckles and carriers from Losi or another company?

I have noticed some play developing in these stock parts and I can either shim it out with washers or buy the aluminum pieces.

just would like your peoples' thoughts / experiences about them.
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:46 AM   #6388
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i run the Ebay cheepo knuckles on my truggy....HdkPro is the shop name i think his name is Jimmy outta Hongkong...they didnt fit exactly purfect...but with a little sanding and tinkering they work great......1 thing i noticed Even with the Losi knuckls and carrier's on my buggy.....the spindel would touch the bolt that holds the carrier on....so i needed to shorten those up a mm or 2....but imo allum is the Only way to go for knuckles....the carrier's arent soo important imo....Look at ANY pro level race truggy/buggy...who runs plastic knuckles....No 1 really...so imo they should be a standard...I kno guys will complain about weight n blah blah...but w/e...when guys are adding 20-30grams of static weight to there tires to balance em...another 50-60grams in knuckles isnt That big of deal.


OO and phixd....some of that Play is suppos to be there....and will not dissapear when u put on the alloy versions.
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:56 PM   #6389
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One thing with the aluminum spindels is that they create more steering throw vs. the plastic spindels. So your car will have more steering and may become twitchy. Just one thing to look out for.
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Old 03-14-2008, 08:45 AM   #6390
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I just got a new 8 B and have upgraded the braces to the Losi w/ inserts for both front and rear .

I want to start off with the stock roller setup. What is the kickup on the stock roller?

Thanks
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