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Old 03-03-2008, 12:18 PM   #6331
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I have a kit from the 1st batch and have never had a rod end pop off on me. and since i got the car i have only replaced the rod ends one time.
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Old 03-03-2008, 12:33 PM   #6332
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What is this Losi 8 it looks like an X-Ray 808 rippoff...
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:04 PM   #6333
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Re: rod ends - after the they pop off the first time, they are going to be more prone to doing so every time after, just like 1/10th ball cups. Courtesy of Adam & Casey: When installing your tie rod ends be sure to install them with the shinny side up. This is the tighter side and will help reduce the chance of them popping off. see pic attached
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:12 PM   #6334
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Quote:
What is this Losi 8 it looks like an X-Ray 808 rippoff...
Too bad the 8ight predates the new Xray by over a year! So...you have that bass ackwards...
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Old 03-04-2008, 07:10 AM   #6335
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Hey 8ight crew. I just picked up an 8ight pro and have a few questions.

What kind of spare parts do I need to carry at all times?

What kind of upgrades do I need to do?

Any maintainence tips?

Thanks!

Here's some pics





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Old 03-04-2008, 07:31 AM   #6336
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The 8ight really doesn't need much. But my list goes like this:

GMK Cvd Condoms
Dynamite Max-Life clutch shoes
Captured rod end mod on front
Losi 3/3 rear plate or M2C 3/3 setup


And that's about it. I've never broken a part on any of mine. Lot's of people like the Losi aluminum servo saver top with a 8ight T servo saver spring.


Once you get about 4 gallons through it you'll need to replace the center driveshafts.
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Old 03-04-2008, 08:52 AM   #6337
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To make maintenance easier, get a split motor mount. Then you can have the motor and radio off the chassis in about 2 minutes. That leaves the chassis open enough for a quick and thorough cleaning.
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:56 AM   #6338
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Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
I just got a pair of new Losi 8ight-T diffs from one of those eBay joints that disassembles RTRs and sells off the parts. I got the 8ight-T diffs to replace the diffs in my 8ight buggy so I have more gearing range for an electric conversion. (Yes, this is electric, but the issue should still be a Nitro issue.)

I found that there is some gear binding (like the mesh was too tight, but only on one side of the ring gear) in these brand new diffs (more the front than the rear). I thought maybe they weren't shimmed properly, but when I opened the diff case, I found no shims at all.

Is some binding/gear tightness to be expected in new diffs? Are they made to be tight initially to account for wear?

If you are wondering why I bough whole diffs, the answer is the complete diffs cost less from this eBay seller than just the 8ight-T ring and pinion gears would have for each of my buggy diffs.
My new Race Roller rear diff was like that. What I did was remove the plastic bearing holder (or what ever you call that plastic collar around the diff out drive bearing) and snaded the edge some. This allowed the diff to move over slightly and provided perfect gear mesh... If you look close at that plastic bearing holder, there is a small lip on it. I just sanded that lip off...

Maybe the aluminum Losi option part would also work...
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:18 AM   #6339
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Originally Posted by ALJR View Post
My new Race Roller rear diff was like that. What I did was remove the plastic bearing holder (or what ever you call that plastic collar around the diff out drive bearing) and snaded the edge some. This allowed the diff to move over slightly and provided perfect gear mesh... If you look close at that plastic bearing holder, there is a small lip on it. I just sanded that lip off...

Maybe the aluminum Losi option part would also work...


I've got some clutch parts, springs, sway bars, and better than cvd condoms, my "CPR's" , perfectly matched to the factory anodizing. I can meet up at RCE too. Send a pm if interested.
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:30 PM   #6340
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Originally Posted by xrayeddy View Post
I've got some clutch parts, springs, sway bars, and better than cvd condoms, my "CPR's" , perfectly matched to the factory anodizing. I can meet up at RCE too. Send a pm if interested.
What are CPR's?
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:38 PM   #6341
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get the losi aluminum rear diff inserts.
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:48 PM   #6342
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Has anyone tried the TFT chassis yet?
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Old 03-04-2008, 05:54 PM   #6343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kendall Welch View Post
Going back to the captured rod ends mod. I used the Losi ends like vlad pointed out. No problems after 3/4 year of running on them; before I was popping off ends like crazy after big jumps or bumping a pipe. Definitely one of the major things to change on your car first to ensure it finishes the race.

Kendall
So the Losi HD ones are different than the stock ones?

Will this prevent the rod end from popping off or just serve as a "bandaid" to prevent the end from completely popping off and crippling the steering?

Thanks
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Old 03-04-2008, 08:58 PM   #6344
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Originally Posted by jimbal View Post
Has anyone tried the TFT chassis yet?
The chassis really helps to smooth out the car. Ive noticed that it makes it a little less twitchy and it seems to make it jump better. The car is just easier to drive and go fast.
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:07 PM   #6345
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Originally Posted by chuckinator View Post
The chassis really helps to smooth out the car. Ive noticed that it makes it a little less twitchy and it seems to make it jump better. The car is just easier to drive and go fast.
Thanks Chuckinator, that's what I wanted to here. Our track is very large and it has rough sections that makes the car very twitchy. I will be one of the first to have this chassis.
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