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Old 03-02-2008, 05:04 PM   #6316
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Anyone got comparisions between the 8ight and an MBX5R?
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:30 PM   #6317
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What is the best way to get the flywheel off and on an OS V-Spec without taking off the back plate and using the OS tool to hold the rod? I know they make a flywheel tool but do they work with Losi? I just hate taking the back plate off and maybe getting dirt in the engine when I'm at the track.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:39 PM   #6318
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What is the best way to get the flywheel off and on an OS V-Spec without taking off the back plate and using the OS tool to hold the rod? I know they make a flywheel tool but do they work with Losi? I just hate taking the back plate off and maybe getting dirt in the engine when I'm at the track.

Thanks for your help.
If your talking about pulling the clutch nut, I just wrap a rag around the flywheel and grip it with a channel lock pliers.
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:42 PM   #6319
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to put it on... tighten the nut until it grabs, then hold the flywheel with a pair of channel locks and snug it down... use loctite of course...

If you need to hold the crank and the little cone washer behind the flywheel doesn't grab, it wont grab when your on the track either, so replace it.

to take it off... take the nut off, hold the engine flywheel side down.. and tap the back of the flywheel with a plastic handled screwdriver to break it loose.
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:38 PM   #6320
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I can get the flywheel off by tapping with a rubber hammer but the problem is tighting the nut. When I start the tighten the nut the flywheel just spins so I have to take the back plate off to tighten the nut all the way. Is that the only way to get it tight, I don't believe in using a piston locking tool.

Thanks,
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:00 PM   #6321
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This thread is too long to read through every post, so I apologize if this has been addressed already:

I just bought a new 8 buggy roller.

I wasn't sure what upgrades to buy, so I ordered:


DYN2542 Dynamite Machined Aluminum JR, Airtronics, KO Double Sided Servo Horn (Blue)
LOSA9114 Team Losi Clutch Springs (Gold): 8B/8T
LOSA9115 Team Losi Clutch Springs (Silver): 8B/8T
LOSA4430 Team Losi 8ight Aluminum Rear Gearbox Bearing Inserts
KHZ-KP-230 King Headz Team Losi 8ight Rear Radio Tray Stiffener
GMK0119 GMK Supply "CVD Condoms" (Team Losi 8ight/8ight-T)
LOSA4441 Team Losi 8ight Servo Saver Top, Aluminum: 8B/8T
LOSA99030 Team Losi Aluminum Servo Arm: JR
DYNP5188 Dynamite Max-Life 8ight Aluminum Clutch Shoes Set
LOSA3542 Team Losi HD Brake Disk Set, Vented: 8B/8T
LOSA4442 Team Losi Aluminum Center Front Diff Bearing Adapter

I've heard of throttle servo issues, so I ordered the King Headz plate stiffner (is this enough to fix the issue)?

What other immediate/important issues are there with the 8 and what parts do I need to fix them?

THanks everyone
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:10 PM   #6322
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just follow the instructions on setting up the throttle servo to a "T" and you won't have any problems.
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:45 PM   #6323
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What's the hot setup for the 8ight buggy?
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:04 PM   #6324
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go over to losi.com

and check out Drake's and Truhe's setup sheets. Pretty good start.
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:17 PM   #6325
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Thanks
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:06 PM   #6326
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I have a few friends that bought the 8ight RTR and they have a lot of slop in the front and back of the buggy. The 8ight RTR at my local hobby shop has alot of slop also. I just got done building my 8ight Compitition Kit and it has no slop at all. Whats the deal? I know the slop will come after running it, but why do the RTR's have so much slop.
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:28 PM   #6327
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The RTR's use a different plastic than the kit. Its a way to have them mass produced at a cheaper cost, though the parts look the same.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:41 AM   #6328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberts View Post
I can get the flywheel off by tapping with a rubber hammer but the problem is tighting the nut. When I start the tighten the nut the flywheel just spins so I have to take the back plate off to tighten the nut all the way. Is that the only way to get it tight, I don't believe in using a piston locking tool.

Thanks,
Can you run the nut down on the crank completely without any binding? Sounds like you either bottoming out the nut on the crank or have a burr on the crank threads. If the nut tightens down fine, then put a shim behind the collet.
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:08 AM   #6329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
Can you run the nut down on the crank completely without any binding? Sounds like you either bottoming out the nut on the crank or have a burr on the crank threads. If the nut tightens down fine, then put a shim behind the collet.
+1

Just had the same problem. Run the clutch nut down the shaft without the clutch on so you can see & feel how far it will go. Mine was hanging up and I retapped the the nut with a 1/4-28. Also clean off any old locktite from the threads so the nut doesn't hang up on it.
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Old 03-03-2008, 12:14 PM   #6330
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Going back to the captured rod ends mod. I used the Losi ends like vlad pointed out. No problems after 3/4 year of running on them; before I was popping off ends like crazy after big jumps or bumping a pipe. Definitely one of the major things to change on your car first to ensure it finishes the race.

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