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Old 02-29-2008, 08:14 PM   #6301
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CAPTURED ROD ENDS MODIFICATION.

LOSA6050-6.8mm ball ends
LOSA6241- 5-40x5/8" screws
LOSA6302- 5-40 locknuts
LOSA6350- washers

Some people use the washers and some people don't. I put the screw through them so the washer sits on top of the 6.8mm ball.
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Old 02-29-2008, 08:26 PM   #6302
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Calandra Racing Concepts makes some nice captured ball ends for only $4.00. Check them out at:

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718959

Later,
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Old 03-01-2008, 02:02 AM   #6303
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Kyosho 6.8 Flanged Ball KYOIF313



http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3931
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Old 03-01-2008, 10:37 PM   #6304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air8 View Post
CAPTURED ROD ENDS MODIFICATION.

LOSA6050-6.8mm ball ends
LOSA6241- 5-40x5/8" screws
LOSA6302- 5-40 locknuts
LOSA6350- washers

Some people use the washers and some people don't. I put the screw through them so the washer sits on top of the 6.8mm ball.
So what holds the ball end from coming off, the washer??
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Old 03-01-2008, 11:20 PM   #6305
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Originally Posted by vlad_vy View Post
I just bought an 8 buggy. These are an exact fit for the Losi buggy as well?
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Old 03-02-2008, 01:17 AM   #6306
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Yes.
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Old 03-02-2008, 01:35 AM   #6307
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But, using captured ball ends is dangerous in case of hard impact, you can break anything else.

Will be better to use:

Team Losi HD Rod Ends & Balls: 8B/8T - LOSA6044



or

Kyosho 6.8mm Plastic Ball Ends (12) - KYO1296



Kyosho is better.
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:09 AM   #6308
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[LOSA6272] 5-40 x 3/4" Flat Head Screws

I think thats the length... anyways, those will prevent the end from coming all the way off if they pop off.
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:21 AM   #6309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlad_vy View Post
But, using captured ball ends is dangerous in case of hard impact, you can break anything else.
I found it pops off to easy. Nothing that would break anything, just a brush against a pipe will make them pop off.
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:37 AM   #6310
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After doing the captured rod ends the next weakest link for me was the front inner hinge pin cover on the back of the front diff. Since it's plastic the energy is transferred to this plastic cover from the hinge pins and the hinge pins can slide out the back. After breaking a couple of them I put and aluminum King Headz front inner hinge pin brace in and the buggy has been super bullet proof on the front end. I did the same thing to the truggy before I ran it, just to be on the safe side.

I still crash too much so that's why I did it. LOL. It helps keep me on the track longer.
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:56 AM   #6311
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Default Question on Diffs

I just got a pair of new Losi 8ight-T diffs from one of those eBay joints that disassembles RTRs and sells off the parts. I got the 8ight-T diffs to replace the diffs in my 8ight buggy so I have more gearing range for an electric conversion. (Yes, this is electric, but the issue should still be a Nitro issue.)

I found that there is some gear binding (like the mesh was too tight, but only on one side of the ring gear) in these brand new diffs (more the front than the rear). I thought maybe they weren't shimmed properly, but when I opened the diff case, I found no shims at all.

Is some binding/gear tightness to be expected in new diffs? Are they made to be tight initially to account for wear?

If you are wondering why I bough whole diffs, the answer is the complete diffs cost less from this eBay seller than just the 8ight-T ring and pinion gears would have for each of my buggy diffs.
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:03 PM   #6312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
I just got a pair of new Losi 8ight-T diffs from one of those eBay joints that disassembles RTRs and sells off the parts. I got the 8ight-T diffs to replace the diffs in my 8ight buggy so I have more gearing range for an electric conversion. (Yes, this is electric, but the issue should still be a Nitro issue.)

I found that there is some gear binding (like the mesh was too tight, but only on one side of the ring gear) in these brand new diffs (more the front than the rear). I thought maybe they weren't shimmed properly, but when I opened the diff case, I found no shims at all.

Is some binding/gear tightness to be expected in new diffs? Are they made to be tight initially to account for wear?

If you are wondering why I bough whole diffs, the answer is the complete diffs cost less from this eBay seller than just the 8ight-T ring and pinion gears would have for each of my buggy diffs.


Loosen the screws that hold the diff halfs together and the screws that hold the diffs to the chassis, then re-snug them (the ones on the chassis).... Then spin the diff, it should be free continue to snug the diff half screws little by little in an x pattern until you feel binding or they are snug, if you feel it bind just back'm off a hair... Hope this helps!
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Old 03-02-2008, 01:46 PM   #6313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCUBA STEVE View Post
Loosen the screws that hold the diff halfs together and the screws that hold the diffs to the chassis, then re-snug them (the ones on the chassis).... Then spin the diff, it should be free continue to snug the diff half screws little by little in an x pattern until you feel binding or they are snug, if you feel it bind just back'm off a hair... Hope this helps!
Thanks for that advice, but the diffs aren't even installed in the chassis yet. It sounds like what you are saying is that there should not be any gear tightness.

I loosened the screws and tried just holding the diff casing halves together with my left hand while turning the pinion gear with my right. The tightness is less but still exists to some degree. It only happens for part of a full turn of the outdrives. As if the ring gear is not properly installed on the diff cup and it is canted. Is that possible?
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Old 03-02-2008, 04:08 PM   #6314
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So what has been the track record of the 8ight as far as slop and parts wearing out from usage that you guys are seeing compared to other vehicles you have run?

I am thinking of picking up an 8ight, but want more info on this first.

Thanks for any info you can give.
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:04 PM   #6315
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im my honest opinion, it does not wear any more than any other buggy. Yes, it has slop, but that is a good thing, it makes it easier to drive and easier to drive fast.

As for parts wearing out, in the 7~months I have had my car, the only part ive had to replace is the front center drive shaft (dog bone). All the other parts Ive ever had to replace was because I crashed.
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