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Old 11-05-2006, 01:31 PM   #616
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Makes sense Captain..
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Old 11-05-2006, 03:23 PM   #617
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My brake cams were not bound up. The heat is really the last thing I can think of. Losi sells Nomex heat shield material, so I will try that and report any results.
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Old 11-05-2006, 04:18 PM   #618
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make sure you cut a hole in the scope on the side of the body. It lines up perfiect with the servo. I did that today and the heat was dramatically reduced and actually almost non existant. I don't think this has to do with anything except the heat. There is no more stress on these then any other car. I haven't had a problem but feel more air flow will help dramatically. I do however have a bent front CVD and that sucks, but the car does handle like no other.
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Old 11-05-2006, 05:17 PM   #619
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There is one thing. The throttle return spring on the carb side is real strong if you use the one from the kit. I used a Losi gas truck return spring that is wrapped around the throttle linkage rod and crossed over to the first motor mount screw on the left side. This spring no longer applies pressure to the servo once the carb is closed. This allowes me to use a very light spring between the servo horn and the carb.
The servo does not have to work hard at all to hold center.
I say this because I have noticed a lot of guy's cars buzzing when they turn their cars on next to me.
When I changed from the stiff springs my servo stopped buzzing.
When you activate the brakes the servo is going to work easier being that it is now only over comming a very light spring on the throttle side. I'm thinking of eliminating the spring on the rod all together.
I'll check my servo case temps this week during the races and let you know what I find.
Good stuff Aaron.
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Old 11-05-2006, 05:20 PM   #620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1
There is one thing. The throttle return spring on the carb side is real strong if you use the one from the kit. I used a Losi gas truck return spring that is wrapped around the throttle linkage rod and crossed over to the first motor mount screw on the left side. This spring no longer applies pressure to the servo once the carb is closed. This allowes me to use a very light spring between the servo horn and the carb.
The servo does not have to work hard at all to hold center.
I say this because I have noticed a lot of guy's cars buzzing when they turn their cars on next to me.
When I changed from the stiff springs my servo stopped buzzing.
When you activate the brakes the servo is going to work easier being that it is now only over comming a very light spring on the throttle side. I'm thinking of eliminating the spring on the rod all together.
I'll check my servo case temps this week during the races and let you know what I find.
Good stuff Aaron.
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post a pic for everyone
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Old 11-05-2006, 05:41 PM   #621
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This is a pic of the Losi return spring that attaches the throttle linkage arm to the motor mount.
The spring on the rod is a very light Traxxas spring.
I think I may run without it this week. Then there would be no strain on the servo staying centered. It will make brake activation easier as well.
Hope this helps,
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Old 11-05-2006, 05:47 PM   #622
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Red face

Sorry about the mess. Just came from the battlefield.
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Old 11-05-2006, 07:43 PM   #623
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Vindication at last!... Nah, sorry to hear your servo took a dirt knap on any raceday...I've been lucky with mine. Mine seem to survive every race, but during practice, they kick the bucket. I'm hoping the insulation and rubber mounts do the trick, at least untill we figure out what's happening.
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:01 AM   #624
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Like I said...the irony did not escape me. I thought it was pretty funny on my way off the drivers' stand.

The argument about the servos getting too hot is a pretty good one. I guess it didn't really cross my mind that heat would cause the motors to fail..."too hot to touch" is usually 200 degrees or hotter.
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Old 11-06-2006, 06:01 AM   #625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
My brake cams were not bound up. The heat is really the last thing I can think of. Losi sells Nomex heat shield material, so I will try that and report any results.

i did the same thing with my servo too Aaron, just don't want to "burn" up a $110 servo.
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Old 11-06-2006, 01:22 PM   #626
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Oh trust me, I know what you mean. I don't run for Airtronics...haha. I understand that gets expensive.

It doesn't look at all like my servo was hitting the chassis, except for maybe in one little spot. The spacers from the Jammin' car look to be a little bit taller, so it'll lift the servo a tad bit higher. Other than that, I'm going to try some heat shield and see if that works.
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Old 11-06-2006, 03:38 PM   #627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Oh trust me, I recognized the irony right away. Just because something may be wrong doesn't mean everything was right on my car. There's no way that a certain brand car can systematically destroy servos. I was laughing to myself all week that it was only a matter of time before my own servo blew up. It's obvious that this IS a problem and not just a fluke and we'll figure it out, don't worry.

And you can say "I told you so". I deserve it!

Honestly, I think it's a good thing that I was able to replicate the problems other people have had (thank goodness it was a club race!), because now I have a basis from which to trouble-shoot my own problem...which will hopefully create a fix for everyone else that has had throttle servo failures.

along with the fix how about some servos from losi?
while we are talking about servos, anyone send in 357 or 358 for repair? how much have you had to pay for repairs?
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Old 11-06-2006, 04:35 PM   #628
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I just got my 360 back from repair and there was no charge since it was under warranty. The servo was plain defective...it failed after 2 tanks of fuel and it was shimmed and the EPA precisely set. The Futaba 9451 i'm using for a replacement is still going strong and I may keep using it for the indoor season.

Just of curiosity, how many of the failed servos were Airtronics?
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Old 11-06-2006, 05:06 PM   #629
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All mine were JR; three Z590s, a standard(airplane servo, wasn't even metal geared), and the Z650 didn't die, it just twitched real bad. The Z590 in it now survived a race and a day of practice. My next big race is this Saturday... I'll post if it survives...
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:13 PM   #630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R40Victim
All mine were JR; three Z590s, a standard(airplane servo, wasn't even metal geared), and the Z650 didn't die, it just twitched real bad. The Z590 in it now survived a race and a day of practice. My next big race is this Saturday... I'll post if it survives...

no offense R40, but maybe if you stepped up to a better servo, you might not have any problems
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