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Old 02-23-2008, 02:24 PM   #6256
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thanks boost. I think that I put too much elbow grease behind the driver. I disassembled it. it turns great without the rear half placed on it. As soon as I tighten it down, it feels as if it is catching minutely. It is frustrating to me because I don't want to place it on the ground to run and have it tear up the gears. I think that it will be alright. I greased the diff gear. it seemed to help a bit. We will see.
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Old 02-23-2008, 02:40 PM   #6257
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Originally Posted by rescuemann View Post
thanks boost. I think that I put too much elbow grease behind the driver. I disassembled it. it turns great without the rear half placed on it. As soon as I tighten it down, it feels as if it is catching minutely. It is frustrating to me because I don't want to place it on the ground to run and have it tear up the gears. I think that it will be alright. I greased the diff gear. it seemed to help a bit. We will see.
You need to drive the car to let the parts seat and wear a tad, then all will be fine. The parts on this car are very tough, don't worry too much about tearing up the ring and pinion gears on the diffs, do grease them slightly however as you said you did.
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:40 PM   #6258
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I use team associated ASC6588 black grease for ball diffs. Just put a little on the ring and pinion gear teeth and your good to go.

any grease is fine.. black, lithium, but thicker greases will not be spun off as easily.
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:58 PM   #6259
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I use Red bearing Axel grease...and it works great...easily removable with Iosol.
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Old 02-23-2008, 07:53 PM   #6260
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I use Valvoline industrial bearing grease, it's good stuff!
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Old 02-23-2008, 09:42 PM   #6261
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qqq000feel,
I use the Associated offroad ride height guage, its probably the best I have found though a little on the spendy side. Anywhere from 22 to 24 bones depending on where you can get it. Its marked in milimeters and is easy to use. I measure the front and the rear of the chassis with the finger of the guage just touching the chassis.
rescuemann,
Unless you are running an event where cars are being tech'd, it would probably be too wide. For a club race you might be alright, just be sure to check with who ever is running the show or other racers in the class if you are not sure. I haven't heard of anyone running those hubs on the buggy, the most I have heard of was running the 2mm wider hubs on one end or the other (front I think). I believe the 1/2 in. hubs were made for the truggy when you wanted to run a zero offset rim (GRP's for example) and retain the same width as stock.

On the grease for the ring and pinion gears I use the Associated black grease as well with some green slime from Associated mixed in. Seems to work pretty good, though just about any is better than none.
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Old 02-24-2008, 07:18 AM   #6262
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Default Are these the same clutch shoes?

Losi Long-Wear Alum Clutch Shoes (4)LOSA9109

Dynamite Max-Life Aluminum Clutch Shoes Set (4) [DYNP5188]

Some one once told me that they were the same. I have tried the Max life shoes but not the losi ones. Just a question
Thanks Tony
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Old 02-24-2008, 10:46 AM   #6263
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I have used the King Headz 7075 shoes and the Losi long lifes. To tell you the truth they felt pretty much the same. I actually like the Losi shoes a little better, they seem to last a little longer and don't mushroom as much.

I have no experience with he Dynamite shoes and dont know anybody who runs them.
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Old 02-24-2008, 02:50 PM   #6264
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the max-life's have good wear and don't mushroom like the blue losi shoes.

So I figured I would buy a set of the losi long life's and try them
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Old 02-24-2008, 03:54 PM   #6265
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i have never had a set of losi shoes mushroom.....i also have not heard good things about either of the long ware shoes....

keep in mind i run my shoes for at least a gallon of fuel, and rebuild after EVERY race weekend....
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Old 02-24-2008, 04:31 PM   #6266
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I ran the Dynamite Max-Life clutch shoes for around five gallons before they started to slip!!! I HIGHLY recomend them.
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Old 02-24-2008, 07:49 PM   #6267
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I have the OFNA truggy starter box (blue w/2 750 motors), but having a heck of time aligning the Losi 8T on it. Do you pictures that you can post? THanks much, Jason
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Old 02-25-2008, 06:13 AM   #6268
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Does anybody know what the 8ight B RTR Mach 427 stock pipe is? Is it sold under a different number/name like a 086 or 053 or similiar? Thanks, Aaron
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Old 02-25-2008, 03:47 PM   #6269
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Originally Posted by Aaron D. View Post
Does anybody know what the 8ight B RTR Mach 427 stock pipe is? Is it sold under a different number/name like a 086 or 053 or similiar? Thanks, Aaron
Not sure if it's exactly the same, but if you look at the Stock 8ight buggy RTR pipe, and the Dynamite 007 Hi-Torque pipe, they look very similar to me, with the exception of the stinger support on the Dynamite.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdeal823 View Post
Losi Long-Wear Alum Clutch Shoes (4)LOSA9109

Dynamite Max-Life Aluminum Clutch Shoes Set (4) [DYNP5188]

Some one once told me that they were the same. I have tried the Max life shoes but not the losi ones. Just a question
Thanks Tony
I've run both with all silver springs on my 8-T, don't really notice a difference; they're both awesome. That's pretty much what i always start with on truggy. If you run 2 Long Wears with 2 Composite shoes, the long-wears will considerably outlast the composite. If you typically run 2 & 2, I'd just stick to the stock Blue lightened (LOSA9108) alum shoes with 2 composite, they seem to wear almost equally.
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Old 02-25-2008, 03:53 PM   #6270
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That pipe is the 007 high torque. It is just made a little cheaper by ommiting the stinger support and running regular anodizing instead of the hard stuff.
This is actually a good pipe on a motor with no bottom end in the low RPM range. It runs great on my RB S5.
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