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Old 02-17-2008, 10:52 AM   #6241
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Yup , sorry about that.
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Old 02-17-2008, 10:55 AM   #6242
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Originally Posted by MattP View Post
I was wondering how many of you guys that own a 8ight B race roller have had any out of the box assembly issues? All of my 8ight T race rollers have had top notch assembly but when I took my new buggy out of the box I immediately saw one of the front chassis brace screws hanging way out from under the chassis. I went over the whole bottom of the chassis and all the rest of the screws were tight. Then today when I was running the first tank through it the brake linkage vibrated off. I guess while they were busy putting too much red loctite on the wheel hubs they forgot to loctite the tiny setscrews in the brake collars.......
Like any prebuilt car, you have to go over things. I don't trust any of the prebuilts or RTR cars. On the linkage, it does seem a bit loose or sloppy IMO from the factory.
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Old 02-17-2008, 05:47 PM   #6243
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Thanks for the help. I was told that the heat may become a problem. The Servo has a heat sink on it which is cool. By the way... I race on a compacted local track with a high bank and triples. What do you professionals recommend for diff lube arrangements. I am getting ready to remove the grease from the RTR 8ight and possible change out the T-Roller's oil. I have a OS .28 V-Spec in the T, and the stocl 427 in the B.
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Old 02-18-2008, 08:29 AM   #6244
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Rescuemann: Try 5/7/2 in the buggy and 7/10/3 in the truggy.
The truggy comes from the factory with silicone already in the diffs so unless you have a lot of runtime on it there shouldn't be any need to swap it out yet. Unless your like me and just like to change the oil out regularly for good measure.
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Old 02-18-2008, 08:56 AM   #6245
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Thanks. I will try it out. I love swapping things out just to swap things out, but I think that is just part of the Hobby. I am having the issue, as other are having, with there being a delay from throttle squeeze to movement. I have the nut right next to the servo arm. I am still in break in right now and am having problems with the stock RTR Spektrum throttle servo. I have pressure on the arm when you try to move it. It will not move either way when using the transmitter. It just gave out mid run on the 3.5 tanks of fuel through it. Any one ahve any suggestions let me know. I will have to contact Hobbytown about it. Thanks for all the help.
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:45 AM   #6246
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In buggy i run 1 carbon/plastic shoe to lubricate and reduce wear on 3 7075 shoes. I run a gold spring on the carbon and 1 gold on one of the alum shoes with sivers on the other 2 alums and the thing takes off well with a smooth response. The clutch last for a good long time too.
I do not run expo or modified speed settings on my throttle either.
You might give it a try.
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Thanks, I'll give it a try. I'm running the stock gearing 14/48. Will dropping to 13/48 help the shoe life as well
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Old 02-21-2008, 01:36 AM   #6247
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This is an old question ,but I really need some advice.My 8ight is awesome on practice and qualifiers,but as soon as the track get ruff(rutty,big holes,and jumps wear out)it is as if I loose control. I run the M T setup and 1deg xtra caster in front.Where should one start on the setup and what must I do first. I am always worried to make changes if the buggy is ok and try to drive around the bad sections but somehow the bad section move in front of me!I qualify well but loose it in the mains due to the fact that my setup is wrong. Somebody please help!!!!!
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Old 02-21-2008, 02:05 AM   #6248
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Hello guys.
How can I measure the ride height?
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Old 02-21-2008, 05:38 AM   #6249
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mater

I would go down in center diff to 5000
that's stabilising in the rough
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Old 02-22-2008, 12:38 PM   #6250
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This is an old question ,but I really need some advice.My 8ight is awesome on practice and qualifiers,but as soon as the track get ruff(rutty,big holes,and jumps wear out)it is as if I loose control. I run the M T setup and 1deg xtra caster in front.Where should one start on the setup and what must I do first. I am always worried to make changes if the buggy is ok and try to drive around the bad sections but somehow the bad section move in front of me!I qualify well but loose it in the mains due to the fact that my setup is wrong. Somebody please help!!!!!
Going down to 5000 weight in the center diff will help but also do not forget to look at your tires. They are 80% of the setup of a buggy. Try some Proline Bowties M3 compound to help in resisting the ruts and bumps. Also, try messing with the rear droop some like going to 108 or 110 mm. More downtravel in the rear suspension sometimes helps with making it handle the rough better. The rule of thumb I was always told about suspension setup was the use the springs to adjust traction and oil/piston to adjust for how rough the track is. Either a larger hole piston or lighter oil is needed for absorbing rough track. I would concentrate on the rear suspension as it does the most work in rough track handling.
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:14 PM   #6251
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What shock oil should i use in my buggy 8ight. also what springs should i use on the shocks
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:40 PM   #6252
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If I put the Losi 1/2" hub extenders on the RTR, is it still legal to race?
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Old 02-22-2008, 07:35 PM   #6253
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I have also replaced the stock rear differential plastic bearing shrouds (don't remember the official term) and it seems like the gears are not meshing as well as they were before i removed them. It seemed to go back together well. Does anyone have any ideas or have they came across this before? I am still learning this vehicle.
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:13 PM   #6254
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Quote:
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I have also replaced the stock rear differential plastic bearing shrouds (don't remember the official term) and it seems like the gears are not meshing as well as they were before i removed them. It seemed to go back together well. Does anyone have any ideas or have they came across this before? I am still learning this vehicle.
So you got the aluminum rear bearing inserts! excellent purchase.
Is there much grease around the ring and pinion gears and in the case? it could be a bit dry. Also you need to make sure the pinion gear is pushed right in when the centre driveshaft is installed, otherwise there will be movement and it can sound like it isn't meshing properly against the ring gear...which is what I think you can hear. I normally do this when the diff case is apart.
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Old 02-23-2008, 10:16 AM   #6255
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Mater , a little less rear travel will help in those conditions. Turn the droop screws in a half turn or so. The less travel keeps the wheel from dropping so far in the rut or pot hole and kicking back up.
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