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Old 02-13-2008, 11:00 AM   #6211
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The slop in the steering ackerman will be there. If its too tight or all the slop is gone, it more prone to breakage during any hits to the front end. The Kyosho runs the ackerman with play and so does my MBX5R.
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Old 02-13-2008, 04:20 PM   #6212
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Originally Posted by qqq000feel View Post
Guys. What, if anything, do you do to reduce the slop in the steering on the 8 buggy? I've noticed the most slop in the ackerman bushings and in the wheel bearings and/or hexes.
As other's have said, just run the car as is with the slop. It just means that the car is broken in. If you take the slop out of it, the car will be harder to drive and less consistant.
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Old 02-13-2008, 05:07 PM   #6213
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Its somewhat of a solution to the wiggle that develops after time...No bushings to wear out...and all u need is a Flathead screw to pull it off..and i Doubt its gonna break...Im waiting on Matrix concepts to send me some...but im having doubt's ill have them in time before the nats.....So i made these in case....I cant visibly see the slop in where the bushing's used to be....and everything is smooth as butter.



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Old 02-13-2008, 05:27 PM   #6214
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I have tried in the past, to remove most of the play in the suspension and steering on a couple of different brand cars. Everytime though, the car gets harder to drive and more sensitive to track surfaces.

Imo, some "Play" is good, "worn in" is better, "sloppy" needs repairs.

If you talk with any of the pros, they never show up at major events, with brand new cars if they can avoid it, preffering worn or broken in cars instead! I have seen several pro level drivers race at two or three club races before a major event with a new car, to break it in.




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Old 02-13-2008, 05:31 PM   #6215
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Hey ezveedub do you run at millspond saturday nights?
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Old 02-13-2008, 06:53 PM   #6216
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Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim View Post
Some "Play" is good, "worn in" is better, "sloppy" needs repairs.
Exactly, we are not talking about on road vehicles that need exact, precise steering and suspension, these are off-road vehicles that deal with bumps, ruts, jumps and everything else that goes with driving offroad. They need a bit of play otherwise they would follow every little dip and rise in the track.
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Old 02-13-2008, 07:10 PM   #6217
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Hey ezveedub do you run at millspond saturday nights?
I'm there and I was going to run the sportsman class last saturday, but helped pit two friends that night. I'm still rusty and was testing/tuning the 367 in my 8ight earlier that day. Its a bit much for me to handle right now, and the suspension setup was all wrong for Mills Pond that day. The engine is blistering in the 8ight and a bit much to handle. Would have love to run practice tonight, but couldn't make it. Its most likely a mud pit tonight with the rain today.
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Old 02-14-2008, 07:43 AM   #6218
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Looks like the Losi & GRP collaboration is more than just engines - Click here for the GRP tire lineup in Losi's Blue compound, available un-mounted or mounted on Losi wheels
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Old 02-14-2008, 07:50 AM   #6219
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Ok, I'm going over the RTR for the upcoming season, and remembered a problem from last year. I've got the 427 and upgraded to a 2 carbon 2-alum. clutch setup. The problem is that I have to give about 1/4 throttle to get the buggy rolling. I don't what to raise my idle so do I need to go to lighter springs? It's not the throttle linkage, it seems I just have to get to a higher RPM to get rolling.
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Old 02-14-2008, 09:11 AM   #6220
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Check the throttle linkage collar. See if it has moved on the linkage at all. Also check your clutch shoes for wear. A lighter/worn clutch shoe will engage later. There is less rotating mass to move. Yes, a lighter clutch spring will engage sooner. You are correct. While inspecting the clutch, check your flywheel mut for tight. I had mine become a friction drive once. The flywheel nut had backed off a bit and the collet on the crankshaft would spin inside the flywheel until there was enough heat and friction to move the flywheel. LOL. That was an ugly day.
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Old 02-14-2008, 12:54 PM   #6221
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Originally Posted by C&B RC View Post
Ok, I'm going over the RTR for the upcoming season, and remembered a problem from last year. I've got the 427 and upgraded to a 2 carbon 2-alum. clutch setup. The problem is that I have to give about 1/4 throttle to get the buggy rolling. I don't what to raise my idle so do I need to go to lighter springs? It's not the throttle linkage, it seems I just have to get to a higher RPM to get rolling.

What springs are you using at the moment?? How long have you run that clutch?? The whole idea of needing higher RPM to engage your clutch is to make it basically make it take off faster. What do you mean by carbon?? Do you mean some aftermarket choes or have you mistaken the plastic/composite losi shoes for carbon?
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Old 02-15-2008, 04:22 AM   #6222
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Default 8ight buggy fuel tank size

Hi guys.. Have any of you guys had problems with scrutineering re fuel tank size.I am doing my 1st big race meeting next weekend and thought i should check tank to make sure its 125ml. The thing is in oz they also measure with the fuel hose and i got a 128ml measurement. Whats the go in the usa re this area??
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Old 02-15-2008, 04:44 AM   #6223
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Hi guys.. Have any of you guys had problems with scrutineering re fuel tank size.I am doing my 1st big race meeting next weekend and thought i should check tank to make sure its 125ml. The thing is in oz they also measure with the fuel hose and i got a 128ml measurement. Whats the go in the usa re this area??
never had a prob with mine at scrutineering, i had plastic insert in tank and measured 116ml with the fuel line. they only count the fuel line from tank pick up to the carb, the return line doesnt matter(can be as long as you like). just thought id let you know incase your measuring both lines
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:18 AM   #6224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOST View Post
What springs are you using at the moment?? How long have you run that clutch?? The whole idea of needing higher RPM to engage your clutch is to make it basically make it take off faster. What do you mean by carbon?? Do you mean some aftermarket choes or have you mistaken the plastic/composite losi shoes for carbon?
I'm using the gold & silver springs, same setup as the pro kit. This set of shoes has about 4 tanks on it. All Losi shoes, so yes I meant composite not carbon. If its not the springs, maybe I just need to adjust my LSN a little and do a "punch" test. I just figured you would want to spread the power band over as much of the throttle travel as possible so the throttle response would be smoother. I'll admit this is my 1st RC with a center diff. I'm use to a slipper clutch. If it was a slipper clutch setup, it acts like it would need to be tightened a little. So its typical to have a little play in the throttle as the RPMs come up before taking off? If that's the case I just need to adjust my throttle style a little.
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Old 02-15-2008, 07:55 AM   #6225
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In buggy i run 1 carbon/plastic shoe to lubricate and reduce wear on 3 7075 shoes. I run a gold spring on the carbon and 1 gold on one of the alum shoes with sivers on the other 2 alums and the thing takes off well with a smooth response. The clutch last for a good long time too.
I do not run expo or modified speed settings on my throttle either.
You might give it a try.
Also check for oil from your rear clutch bearing to make sure you are not having other issues.
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