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Old 11-02-2006, 07:05 AM   #586
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if the servo is getting hot maybe there is some binding some where? maybe even on the carb its self, mgiht be worth looking at if you havn't already,
Nope, the case was hot on the side facing the motor, not the whole thing. I've been through it several times, no binding anywhere.(brand new Top 3-port and the car itself is brand new, and everything is nice and smooth) I've had a couple others look at and fool with it to see if they can figure it out... If this one kicks the bucket, it's a mystery.
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:06 AM   #587
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Scooby Dooby Doo!!! Looks good.
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:32 AM   #588
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I got my xtreme racing 2 piece motor mount yesterday for the 8ight and it is really nice. I had a 2 piece mount on my jammin and I said after that I would always have one. I will try and post some pics of it installed tonight or you can check out www.xtremercracing.com and search for losi 8ight and see it for yourself. Very nice and allows you to take the motor out without having to worry about the gear mesh changing as the bottom mount stays put!! I hear they should be in stock this week...
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Old 11-02-2006, 08:34 AM   #589
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I don't have an 8ight, but I've been running the 358 on steering and 357 on throttle/brake in my Mugen buggy and truggy for years w/o any issues. I've had the MBX5 since July 2004, still running same servos. I ran the MSR conversion for one year and only lost a 357 due to my first outting with the Spektrum (bad receiver from initial first batch). I sent the 357 in to Airtronics and they repaired it. After I replaced the Spektrum Rx, I've used the same servos from the MSR in my MBX5T w/o any issues. Although, I would recommend the 358 over the 357 for throttle/brake duties. You really don't need the speed of the 357 and the extra torque of the 358 is better suited on the brakes. The 359 is just a 358 with metal failsafe gear and heatsink case. Same for the 360 and 357.

I also bolt my servos in direct w/o the rubber pieces. I use these machined alum strap bars that secure the servos in dead solid.

I did recently pickup the Hitec 5955 and 5997 servos, HT LiPo battery and 7.0 volt regulator to try in my MBX5T. Will also run another LiPo and 7.0 volt regulator in my MBX5R with the Air 357/358 servos.
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:25 AM   #590
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Hmm, with that said, I might try a different reciever. This one has seen duty in a few cars, but is relatively new.(less than 7 or 8 months old) I have one other I can try, so I'll have to see if that's the problem...
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:03 AM   #591
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Brian, do exactly what tex1 stated. I am running the green springs on front and silver on rear. Going with the smaller rear sway bar really helped out too. For diff fluid, i'm running 5/7/3, all Kyosho fluid. My rear was planted really well.

Any chance of making a trip to McCulloughs over the winter to run nitro inside?
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:07 PM   #592
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Awesome paintjob :-)

The heat of the engine won't do anything. The servos shouldn't really hit the chassis either. I think that most of the servo failures are due to the spring on the throttle linkage. Hit the brakes and look at the throttle linkage, the spring that collapses to stop the linkage from over-closing the carburetor. Some racers were having this spring coil-bind because they had to use so much brake EPA to get the brakes to work.

Solution: Set your brakes tighter so you can reduce your brake EPA and still get maximum braking power. By setting more brake into your linkage, the servo won't have to travel as far, and that spring won't coil-bind.

Also, make sure your linkage isn't hitting the center diff mount or case. You may need to rotate your carb to stop that from happening. Both will cause throttle servos to fail.
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Old 11-02-2006, 04:21 PM   #593
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Homer has the best prices on 8ights.

www.bmainhobbies.com

thats true and all the parts and tires
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:44 PM   #594
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I actually cut the spring down several coils in addition to the linkage adjustments when I built the car.

That servo was really hot on one side, that's why I'm thinking it helped kill it. Before I used the rubber grommets, the servo was just about touching the chassis, now it's got a few mm clearance.

Everything is clearing, nothing is impacting the diff housing. I have the carb rotated to make the throttle action a straight shot, no binding. I've been through this thing backwards and forwards, and have had others double check to see if they find anything. Like I said...a perplexing mystery.
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Old 11-03-2006, 12:26 AM   #595
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When you put the servo horn on, are you cranking the screw down? That will stress the servo.

Are you using the stock servo horns? Are you using the outer holes? Is the horn hitting the servo?
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Old 11-03-2006, 06:46 AM   #596
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No, just enough to keep it from comming off, I know that one. I've been building and flying RC planes for many years, and have been doing the car thing for a while now. I'm using the stock servo horn setup, exactly as the manual says to.

Like I said, I've been through it several times trying to figure out why I keep killing servos. Everyone that looks through it is equally perplexed. In theory, it could be the reciever. I'm gonna swap it out before the next race, and see if I kill any more...
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:12 AM   #597
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Does anyone else have alot of side to side play and up and down movement on the upper shock bushings? It appears that the shock bushing (LOSA5434) is not long enough and the shock stand-off (LOSA5438) sticks past it preventing me from taking up the slack with the 5-40 nut. It also appears that the diameter betweent the bushing and the shock top are off a bit as well. My shock moves quite a bit on the bushing.
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:14 AM   #598
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you must not screw to tighly the screws holding the
central plate or the brakes inserts/axles will be more difficult to move ...

I also presume, epoxy discs have more gliding action
versus metal or fibre discs
so the servos must be kept working with more torque
and so heating more

or am I wrong there ?.....
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Old 11-03-2006, 10:30 AM   #599
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Tony...don't worry, they are supposed to be like that.
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Old 11-03-2006, 12:59 PM   #600
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Tony - Like ridgeway said, as long as the shocks stay fastened, it's fine. The more play the shocks have on that bushing, the more freely they will work. It's fine.

R40 - There MUST be something going on, unless you just have the bad luck of getting a few bad servos in a row. There's no mysterious servo ghost...haha.

Do you have your car setup so that when you hit the brakes, the tires do not lock up? If your brakes are set too loose, it might cause you to be on the brakes too long. I'm racking my brain to think of other causes of servo failure.
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