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Old 01-04-2008, 12:29 PM   #5926
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
Well, as you can see, from above posts,s ome others also have the same problem. I ONLY race. I do not bash, I do not do donuts, I do not see how high I can fly etc. I drive with a very smooth throttle finger developed from racing 10th stadium truck.

Maximo: Your statement with the pic is very wrong, it IS NOT the ONLY way someone will wear diffs that quickly. I believe after my 13+ gallons that it has to be the soft plastics. (Even with several FULL rebuilds)

Anyway, enough arguing has happened based on how much MY diffs wear. I know it happens, it happens to several others on this thread, no use trying to prove anyone wrong. You won't be able to diagnose the cause IF it is due to my maintenance since most likely you won't ever see my vehicle. I visit Revelation once in a while and if someone wants to take a look at my vehicle when Im there, I am 100% for it. I am tired of replacing diff cases. You'll be able to pick me out 'cause my body has my screen name and real name on it, on an internal vinyl.

I would be ECSTATIC if someone pointed out that I was building my diffs wrong. (I'd be embarrassed, but ecstatic nonetheless.) I highly doubt it though, as nothing binds, nothing sounds funny, and the driveline is VERY free.


I just found the pic today and thought it would suit the thread...in an attempt to inject maybe a little humour...

It is hard to believe you are flying thru diff cases like that.. but I also dont think you are lying about it either... I just feel that there must be some reasons why its doing that..... But I do not own a Losi 8T, I am just a guy with a funny picture I thought would suit the thread.....and I definitely do not want to argue it either......I run a Mugen and my diffs seem to be holding up very well....
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:31 PM   #5927
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What kind of CA does he use!.......

I was wondering the same thing !!!!! LOL
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:36 PM   #5928
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I just found the pic today and thought it would suit the thread...in an attempt to inject maybe a little humour...
Yeah tough crowd in here
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:42 PM   #5929
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LOL. Ha Ha.

But now I'm hesitant to buy new parts if they don't hold up like the original. Man, I hate when companies figure out they aren't making money off parts because they built them so well in the first place. LOL. Oh, well I'll keep my original parts for spares then. If the new plastics break on me at least I can put the original parts in to get through the day.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:53 PM   #5930
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I have noticed that a good majority of the parts I buy now come with a new packaging design. Lemme see, I just bought $176.92 worth of parts. In that is 8 new diff housings btw Wow, I am paranoid.

You know, screw this. I am calling Losi right now. I want an answer about the plastics.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:54 PM   #5931
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I got my Race roller today
Fastest shipping ever I think.
Anyway can some one post the best setting for the servo saver. I use Ace 1015 servos.
I have to instal the alu arm anyway then I can locktite the setting wright away

Thanks

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Old 01-04-2008, 01:06 PM   #5932
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I usually run 3-5 threads showing from the bottom of the nut, depending on track conditions. For example, on a loose dusty track, I have the servo saver softer so that if I do have some grip, the traction will override my steering input. That may not make sense to you, but its how I also use the servo saver on my onroads. Just make sure it is set stiff enough for high speed turns and that you can still hold a desired line and change the line as necessary due to traffic.
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Old 01-04-2008, 03:34 PM   #5933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellsavage View Post
I got my Race roller today
Fastest shipping ever I think.
Anyway can some one post the best setting for the servo saver. I use Ace 1015 servos.
I have to instal the alu arm anyway then I can locktite the setting wright away

Thanks

mzl Hellsavage
I use the truggy servo saver spring on my 8B with the DS1015 on steering. I use an aluminum servo arm also. I use Blue Locktite and I set it so that the threaded nut doesn't touch the chassis. That's it.
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Old 01-05-2008, 03:41 AM   #5934
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
I have noticed that a good majority of the parts I buy now come with a new packaging design. Lemme see, I just bought $176.92 worth of parts. In that is 8 new diff housings btw Wow, I am paranoid.

You know, screw this. I am calling Losi right now. I want an answer about the plastics.
Rezen, would you say that the diff's wear is related to track byte?

Please keep us posted about your conversation with Losi about the plastic
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Old 01-05-2008, 04:13 AM   #5935
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Oke I have my 8ight put together. Now since the lid is stil tranparant I se the throtle linkage is pressing against the lid. Is this fine or do I have to cut a hole at this place.

thanks

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Old 01-05-2008, 05:04 AM   #5936
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I just cut that excess off with the dremel. It kept scratching my new paint!
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:20 AM   #5937
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Default 8ight vs RC8

Now that the Associated RC8 has been out for a while, how does it stack-up against the Losi 8ight?
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:41 AM   #5938
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went to run yesterday with 3 friends who now drive rc8's let 2 of them drive my car. They both said the car felt better than the rc8 and they were both faster with my losi.
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:55 AM   #5939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cota348 View Post
Rezen, would you say that the diff's wear is related to track byte?

Please keep us posted about your conversation with Losi about the plastic
Ill let you know what Losi says. Unfortunately I went to call and my cell was dead, and I only have a car phone charger. I will call next week some time. About diff wear, I shouldn't say why, as I do not know the full answer. Before my track bought new dirt, if it was not watered, there was little traction to be had, and the diffs wore the same. The comment about my C6BB and traction was somewhat sarcastic.
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Old 01-05-2008, 03:59 PM   #5940
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Yeah, a few pages back I was making a light remark about a powerful engine. That's all. If he was using a weak engine I probably would have made the same statement. I was just surprised to see the punishment his diffs are taking. When outdoor racing rolls back around I'll ask some of the other guys about their diff wear. We run on tracks that have enough traction to pull wheelies if you hammer down after landing a jump. So I don't think this would be track related. Seems to be more of a weaker area. I'm not saying it's weak. But the shock and load half to be transferred somewhere. And the tires are so good that they can transmit the load to the drivetrain. In nitro racing the plastics are the weak spot. But in electric the metal seems to be the weak spot some times. Weird. But it's a fatigue issue in my eyes. These parts are under a lot of stress a lot of the time.
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