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Old 12-30-2007, 01:54 PM   #5836
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Originally Posted by cota348 View Post
Air8, what shims are you talking about in the diff.? I don't see any
Sorry Air8, I just expanded the third picture a saw the shims, maybe something that came from the RTR, but my pro kit never had them.

Anyway, after so much talk about the wear of the diffs I took mine a part yesterday just to check, no doubt there is some wear, they been there since July, probably replace them before next season, but the wear in mine is nothing to worry about it.

Just my 2 cents
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:07 PM   #5837
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mine came with no spyder shims either.....i dont feel it makes that big of a difference.
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:11 PM   #5838
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Originally Posted by satoch View Post
What the hell are you talking about? This is the easiest clutch ever to work on.
The pins are the pain. when you have the spring and shoe all togeather it makes it tough to line up the screw/pin into the hole on the back of the flywheel that all.
Is there a trick that I need to know about?
I'm all ears
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:15 PM   #5839
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Originally Posted by tdeal823 View Post
The pins are the pain. when you have the spring and shoe all togeather it makes it tough to line up the screw/pin into the hole on the back of the flywheel that all.
Is there a trick that I need to know about?
I'm all ears

file the tip of the screw so its not a Blunt end...make it pointy and itll go in like butter...like u already stated about 6-7 posts up...Problem solved...what shoes are u eating through ?
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:21 PM   #5840
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blue alum seam to go kind of quick after 2-3 club races
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:23 PM   #5841
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blue alum seam to go kind of quick after 2-3 club races


ya i could see that....6061 tends to do that....and if ur not careful and ur clutch gets REAL hott...those shoes can melt and curl up pretty bad Junking the shoes pretty quick...i suggest some Dynamite shoes or some KH or M2C 7075's whch are guarenteed to last at Least a couple Hard race weekends.
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Old 12-30-2007, 04:30 PM   #5842
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Okay I just bought me a race roller. Am I missing something.
It will get a RB C6 and 2 ACE 1015 servo's.
1 x LOSA1700 Team Losi Front Suspension Arm Set: 8B
1 x LOSA1722 Team Losi Rear Suspension Arms: 8B
1 x LOSA3505 Team Losi Differential Seal Set: 8B/8T
1 x LOSA5426 Team Losi 15mm Shock Boot Set (4): 8B/8T
1 x LOSA6050 Team Losi Steering Ball Set 6.8mm: 8B/8T
1 x LOSA3521 Team Losi F/R CV Driveshafts (2): 8B
1 x LOSA3526 Team Losi Center Front CV Driveshaft Assembly: 8B
1 x LOSA4430 Team Losi 8ight Aluminum Rear Gearbox Bearing Inserts: 8B/8T
1 x KHZ-KP-215 King Headz Team Losi 8ight/8ight-T Extended EZ Change Motor Mount
1 x LOSA4441 Team Losi 8ight Servo Saver Top, Aluminum: (8B/8T)
1 x LOSA99032 Team Losi Aluminum Servo Arm: Futaba
1 x LOSA0801 Team Losi 8ight 1/8 4WD Competition Buggy Race Roller
2 x LOSA4442 Team Losi Aluminum Center Front Diff Bearing Adapter: 8B/8T

I hope it will be here in 2 weeks. By then I have my first ever buggy race.
I come frome Truggy 8T and before that Hellfire SS.
I use the radio geare frome the truggy and swich between.

mzl Hellsavage

Forgot to say Futabe 3PK as radio gear.
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Old 12-30-2007, 04:36 PM   #5843
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i have had the center diff cup go bad in one day also. i think that it really depends on how rough your track is. on my home track which is very rough i get about half a gallon out of the center and rear diff cups. the last race i went to i put in new diff cups before the race and they showed almost no wear from the race. the major difference was that the track was relativitly smooth.
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:36 PM   #5844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellsavage View Post
Okay I just bought me a race roller. Am I missing something.
It will get a RB C6 and 2 ACE 1015 servo's.
I hope it will be here in 2 weeks. By then I have my first ever buggy race.
I come frome Truggy 8T and before that Hellfire SS.
I use the radio geare frome the truggy and swich between.

mzl Hellsavage

Forgot to say Futabe 3PK as radio gear.
You didn't mention the pipe and header. I run the C6 and bought it as a package with their 01351-192P manifold and 01351-2045p pipe and LOVE it. I also run the engine with the 6.5mm venturi in it. Still makes as much power as an off-road track can handle, and I get great fuel mileage (12 minute runs on the current track layout, that is admittedly a 'low power' layout).

Since you run the 8T you probably already stock the rear-outer hinge pins. Those bend pretty easily.
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:52 PM   #5845
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Not sure what others do for the shock boots, but I use party balloons (animal making balloons) that I cut to length. A bag of 100 is $8 and they last longer than the losi shock boots.

Hellsavage--if you do the captured steering link, remember that the front inner hinge pin cover becomes the next weakest link. I used the KH aluminum cover on my 8 and 8T. But if you don't do the captured link, then you will be totally safe. And remember to heatshrink the center CVD's
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:59 PM   #5846
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
OK. Sorry it wasn't last night. My center diff cup does have a few mm's of wear but this is after 13+ gallons. I'd say I got the hard plastic or something. Or maybe they've been like this since break-in and didn't get worse. IDK.
What do you guys think.
Air8, my diffs after ONE race day (1-2 diff cups) look like either pic#1 or a little better than pic#4, never as bad as pic#2. After those pics, no need to post my own, as literally it will show the same wear. I have had maybe 1 diff get like pic #2. As far as the shims, mine didn't come with them, I bought them from Amain, and they were a Kyosho part, Losi does not sell them, but they are included in some 8ight RTRs. I shim so there is minimal gear backlash, but so it still feels very free and not like a bag of rocks Right now, 2 of my diffs (front and center) have no shims.

Integra: I would love to prove it to you somehow, but I can't. I honestly only get 1-2 meets out of my diff cups. There is NO reason for me to lie about this....
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Old 12-30-2007, 06:16 PM   #5847
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Hell savage: Party balloons don't work IMO. They bunch up and limit down travel. I use Thunder Tiger accordian boots. They work much better, are easy to get on/off for cleaning and don't rip.

Forget Losi inner steering rod ends-they break. Go with Kyosho P/N KYO1296

If you're getting a C6 get the RB 2045 pipe with the 92mm & 98mm headers. Yeah, they're stupid expensive but nothing else works as well on that motor.

Also, get the Dynamite long lasting aluminum shoes. Everything else wears out way too fast.

Heat shrink doesn't last on the cvd's. Get the CV Condoms- a must have.
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Old 12-30-2007, 06:22 PM   #5848
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I've been running the losi all year and had great success with the first generation car. I had a second generation kit and it seemed that the plastic in the diffs was a little softer. After about a month of racing the diffs were notched where the crosspins sat in the groove, it looked like they were wearing sideways. All three diffs. I notice event he arms from the first gen car were a tougher material. I think they just changed the plastic mix, or had a bad batch of plastic. I replaced all three diff cups with no problems yet. Needless to say that some people are experiencing this, and it is true. Hopefully they are working on it.
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Old 12-30-2007, 07:04 PM   #5849
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Well that sucks to hear about the plastics changing. I guess I'll find out this spring when I get a fresh kit. I'm glad I'm learning about this now.
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Old 12-30-2007, 07:31 PM   #5850
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hey,
always run 2 o-rings under where battery is. put it imbetween the chassis and the tray on the rear screw. ppl always blow out throttle servos by not putting them under it. and dont torque down on the screw cause that defeats the purpose of having the o-rings there.
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