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Old 12-21-2007, 06:08 AM   #5776
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Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim View Post
+1

There are NO R/C cars/trucks made in the U.S.A. any longer! At least since Thunder Tigers aquisition of A/E. Even some of the items on Japanese R/C cars are made in Taiwan or China nowadays, since it's all about the profit in business. If the market value for an item is $500 and you can make it in the U.S. for $430 or make it in China for $81 it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out what will happen.

Of course we don't hold China/Taiwan/India and similar countries to the same standards we empose on our own manufacturers.

Labor Laws
Human Rights
Enviornmental regulation
Taxation
Property values
Unions
Annual cost of living raises

Kind of tips the scales....Yet, some want to impose more rules and regs in our own borders, while they shop at Wal-Mart for overseas merchandise.

ODD, unless damaging our long term soverinty was the goal?


Sorry for the long post, got rolling, .


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Old 12-21-2007, 05:42 PM   #5777
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Originally Posted by satoch View Post
I already solved the ackerman slop problem.

1)Drill the ackerman holes to 1/4" and then press in sleeve bearings:
From McMaster-Carr: SAE 841 Bronze sleeve bearings p/n 6391K113
2)Then drill those out to 5/32"
3)Next insert new shoulder screws: McMaster-Carr: p/n 93985A524

Put a drop of after run oil on and you're done.
Ok, I just did this mod, except I couldn't find the McMaster-Carr parts... I just got some equivilant bushings/bearings. 1/4" OD, 1/8" ID, 1/8" long or "thick."

I altered the process SLIGHTLY.

1) I dremeled the flat spots out of the holes first, to help keep the drill bit from "walking" off-center.

2) Then I drilled the 1/4" holes.

3) Tapped in the bearings with a hammer. NOTE: 1/8" bearings are slightly "longer" than the thickness of the ackerman... this comes in handy, as I will explain in a moment.

4) Drilled the centers to 5/32. One of them "spun" in the ackerman, so I clamped a set of "Vise Grips" on it, and drilled.

5) Since I didn't like the fact that the fit was loose enough for the drill bit to spin it, I gave that a little thought... hmmm... I decided to "compress" the bushings with the vise grips to expand them in the holes in the ackerman for a tighter fit. Works like a champ! Drilled to 5/32" and installed. Now I have nice, tight fitting bushings that are flush with the ackerman plate on top and bottom.

6) Installed the bolts and put a drop of after-run oil. Nice, tight steering and no binding. Great!

We'll see how long it holds up in race use.
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:16 PM   #5778
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Pink_sleeve, haha, some of their car is, the Associated and TL parts they buy to complete their "conversions" are from the same source as A/E and TL, China, or Taiwan.

Doesn't make anyone bad, just business.




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Old 12-21-2007, 11:59 PM   #5779
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What do you think about this?? I just got an 8ight, are there any problems with the diffs that this might solve?

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/newb...#forumpost9143
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:02 AM   #5780
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Actually....LOL......
Associated/Thunder Tiger is from China.

Losi/Sprotworks is from Taiwan.

I think the reason the X cars cost as much as they do is the shipping those guys must pay to get the parts to make them run.

Being honest with customs......Priceless!
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Good point Jim.
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:08 AM   #5781
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I'm calling shens on that mod!

The problem they are showing the picture of is because the cup rotated in the housing, not because it didn't. They had something hold up the driveline elsewhere to cause that.

Wow!
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:10 AM   #5782
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Shananagins!!!!! hahaha.... Happy Holiday's Tex ol' buddy!!!
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Old 12-22-2007, 09:32 AM   #5783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
What do you think about this?? I just got an 8ight, are there any problems with the diffs that this might solve?

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/newb...#forumpost9143
I'm a machinist and I think that looks cool. But in my opinion, you just have to maintain your stuff and problems in this area won't occur. Even with this mod, you will still need to maintain your diffs. One thing I see as a problem is now he's created larger openings for dirt and dust to get in to the modified area. The radius of each roll pin creates a gap. The stock design is better for keeping dirt out. Bottom line...Clean your diffs every now and then. My 2 cents
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Old 12-22-2007, 01:58 PM   #5784
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Originally Posted by buckeye-mac View Post
I did take it apart, the gears looked fine. I have been told they just need to break in a little for the first few tanks
Is it the rear gearbox or front gearbox that feels tight? With metal gears there should be no need to break them in, they should have the perfect mesh from the get go, try loosening the screws on the gearbox cases off 1/2 turn and see it it helps, i had a bit of trouble with the rear bearing inserts seating properly, the alluminum ones fixed the problem and the car has perfect smooth gear mesh everywhere before i even cranked the engine over.
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:30 PM   #5785
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Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim View Post
Pink_sleeve, haha, some of their car is, the Associated and TL parts they buy to complete their "conversions" are from the same source as A/E and TL, China, or Taiwan.

Doesn't make anyone bad, just business.




...Jim
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just curious. where is Kyosho and Academy made
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Old 12-23-2007, 04:56 PM   #5786
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Pink_sleeve, to tell the truth, i'm not positive, but from friends in the industry I know the Kyosho stuff is "Mostly" made in Japan and the Academy is "Mostly" made in Taiwan.

I would assume some of those companies items may also be made in China, Indonesia, etc. as others are doing, to help shave costs/increase profit.


I even noticed in the Harley Davidson stores that they have alot of "Chrome Goodies" made in China, or similar countries. LOL



The way of the world I suppose, only consumers can determine if it is the way to go, since we are all so cost concious. I guess this is how it is accomplished.

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Old 12-24-2007, 10:19 AM   #5787
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Hi, i have just built my losi 8ight and set it up on adam drakes set up for rough tracks. i set the droop as he recomends, by measuring the shocks. the front seems fine , but he says the rear shock length is 106mm. with this setting, it seems the car has little or no rear droop. surely this cant be correct? am i missing something here, or is that actually how he runs it?

thanks.
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Old 12-24-2007, 10:56 AM   #5788
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thats how most people run it.. measuring from the center of the screw and the shock mount
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:52 PM   #5789
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Ah, you measure from the center of the screw - center of shock mount. that will make a difference. i measured total shock length.
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Old 12-24-2007, 02:49 PM   #5790
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Yeah... measure from the center of the top screw to the center of the bottom screw to get your measurements. It is different if you have differing shock locations from the one he is calling for.
I find that 108mm is the good setting for me on the low side with 110mm being the high side figure.
Rear droop makes a bif difference in this car.

Shins CARL! That is what that was!
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

See you in Jan for the Ice Breaker??
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