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Old 12-02-2007, 03:30 PM   #5671
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Crewman, clutches can vary alot, depending on material, spring choice, driving style, surface you race on, tires, etc.

I always check my clutch before any major event, or after 3 or so club races. Depending on how much practice time I get in.

I would never go more then a half gallon before looking at it to be sure, jmo.

I think it is a visual inspection thing to be honest, since it can very so much, even the same shoes seem to wear at different rates sometimes. Just keep a spare set on hand.




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Old 12-03-2007, 02:13 PM   #5672
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I hear talk of problems with the center diffs on the 8. The pins wear out the case. Since the Losi 8 and Mayhem/Turmoil diff cases are the same why not just put an aluminum after market diff case like this one in? http://cgi.ebay.com/DIFF-CUP-Sportwe...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 12-03-2007, 02:56 PM   #5673
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Originally Posted by satoch View Post
I hear talk of problems with the center diffs on the 8. The pins wear out the case. Since the Losi 8 and Mayhem/Turmoil diff cases are the same why not just put an aluminum after market diff case like this one in? http://cgi.ebay.com/DIFF-CUP-Sportwe...QQcmdZViewItem
My guess is top reason not to would be increased rotating mass, so probably an actually noticable drop in acceleration.
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Old 12-04-2007, 08:10 AM   #5674
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Originally Posted by RETRO RC View Post
you don't know what your missing

the matainance ( quick buff with some fine sand paper) is no worse than deburring ali shoes and the clutch bell lasts longer as well

but the standard losi ali's wear to quick so either KH 7075's, losi long lifes or dynamite long lifes are the best

Adrian
Yeah, deburring the aluminum shoes is one of those things you just have to do. A dremel makes quick work of it though.

You have a good point about the clutch bell lasting longer... I HAVE a Losi clutch setup of course, but haven't ever run it. (It came with the buggy, which I got used, but with a new chassis, arms, and center CVA's/diff)

I run the Mugen because that is what I'm used to... and of course the parts are available virtually anywhere. My buddies that run Kyoshos also run the Mugen clutch setup... so ONE of us always has whatever part may be needed in the box.

I kinda like the Werks clutch in concept, but I haven't tried one...
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Old 12-04-2007, 08:13 AM   #5675
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My guess is top reason not to would be increased rotating mass, so probably an actually noticable drop in acceleration.
+1

The same for the Fioroni (sp?) retainers for the CVA pins... extra rotating mass, no thanks! One of the best things about the Losi is the instant reaction to throttle/brake... and that comes from the ultra low rotating mass in this car.

I'm gonna try the "Radio Shack CVA pin retainers" and see how that works out. (heat shrink tubing over the CVA so the pin can't come out even if the set screw backs out.) Only a miniscule increase in rotating mass, and CHEAP!
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Old 12-04-2007, 08:48 AM   #5676
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Originally Posted by DOMIT View Post
Yeah, deburring the aluminum shoes is one of those things you just have to do. A dremel makes quick work of it though.

You have a good point about the clutch bell lasting longer... I HAVE a Losi clutch setup of course, but haven't ever run it. (It came with the buggy, which I got used, but with a new chassis, arms, and center CVA's/diff)

I run the Mugen because that is what I'm used to... and of course the parts are available virtually anywhere. My buddies that run Kyoshos also run the Mugen clutch setup... so ONE of us always has whatever part may be needed in the box.

I kinda like the Werks clutch in concept, but I haven't tried one...
Speaking as someone who's run both the Mugen and Losi clutches, try the Losi. When I was running the Mugen, I had to debur the shoes every race day. PITA. I tried to run the carbon shoes on the Mugen. Yeah, that worked out well. 5 minute run and they were dead. With the Losi clutch, I run 4 carbon shoes and gold springs. The feel is great through the rough stuff as it allows just the slightest bit of slip when the tires and drive train get jammed up in the really rough sections. I've been running the same shoes for over a gallon. Not to mention how much easier the Losi clutch is to put together and take apart when you do have to maintain it.
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Old 12-04-2007, 10:16 AM   #5677
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Does the buggy race roller come with all the springs and swaybars that come with the unassembled kit version?
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Old 12-04-2007, 11:12 AM   #5678
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Does the buggy race roller come with all the springs and swaybars that come with the unassembled kit version?
Yes.
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Old 12-04-2007, 11:44 AM   #5679
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Kerr- Did you put on a new bell when you went to the carbon mugens? If you ran aluminums and used the same bell to run the carbons thats a big reason they got eaten up in about 5 mins. You need to start witha new bell when you use all carbons.
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Old 12-04-2007, 01:13 PM   #5680
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yes and no for using Brand new bells...If u know how to clean them and maintain em....u can switch back and forth no problem's.....but it does take some time with differnt bits to make it happen.
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Old 12-04-2007, 04:45 PM   #5681
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I didn't switch the bell, but I did clean it up with a scotch-brite pad really well.
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Old 12-04-2007, 07:35 PM   #5682
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Well the problem is that the aluminum really roughs up the steel inside the bell where it hits. When you put carbons, its like a cheese grater. Cleaning it with a scotch bright probobly isn't enough to smooth it out from the aluminum shoes.
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Old 12-04-2007, 07:45 PM   #5683
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i use a little more then just scotch bright...as that would'nt work worth a bean on Allum slag...u need to fire up the dremel and use a sander drum....Grind away...once the allum is all off the drum will start to spark...IE ur back down to the steel....All the alluminum does is coat itself over and over again from the slag....so just rubbing it with 1 grit of paper wont cut it....the bell needs to be GLASS smooth...so once u use the sander drum i get out the 400g wet sand...take it to the sink and run a strip of 400..then to 600.....then i get out the rubber bit and polish it up....thats the proper way to clean up a bell..not scotch bright.
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Old 12-04-2007, 07:47 PM   #5684
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Originally Posted by Brian Miskolczi View Post
Well the problem is that the aluminum really roughs up the steel inside the bell where it hits. When you put carbons, its like a cheese grater. Cleaning it with a scotch bright probobly isn't enough to smooth it out from the aluminum shoes.
Even still, a gallon on the Losi carbons and how easy it is to build is reason enough for me to stick with the Losi. Plus it just works.
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Old 12-04-2007, 07:49 PM   #5685
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i use a little more then just scotch bright...as that would'nt work worth a bean on Allum slag...u need to fire up the dremel and use a sander drum....Grind away...once the allum is all off the drum will start to spark...IE ur back down to the steel....All the alluminum does is coat itself over and over again from the slag....so just rubbing it with 1 grit of paper wont cut it....the bell needs to be GLASS smooth...so once u use the sander drum i get out the 400g wet sand...take it to the sink and run a strip of 400..then to 600.....then i get out the rubber bit and polish it up....thats the proper way to clean up a bell..not scotch bright.
Interesting. I'll have to try that. I'm sure the carbon builds up that way too. Thanks.
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