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Old 11-29-2007, 11:51 PM   #5656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro rat View Post
When i am off power and i go to turn into a corner it starts to pushes out wide all the time
You can try going to the #4 front camber link location for more aggressive steering overall.

You can also go out on the top of the rear shock, that helps rotation at times, it depends on the track and driving style.

And last but not least you can try a thicker swaybar if they make one.
I have the buggy and I'm not familiar with what swaybars they make for the truggy.


Hope that helps




later
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Old 11-30-2007, 03:36 AM   #5657
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I am interested in your experience with the race roller. We own a Losi Pro kit 8B since June, would like to keep it for practice and race a new one. So the real question is in your experience, would you agree that a Race Roller is assemble as good as if you did it yourself?

The price difference between them is less than $10.

Thanks for you opinions.
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Old 11-30-2007, 05:42 AM   #5658
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The race roller needs to be gone through. I found at least two things that would have been a show stopper if I just put it one track and raced it.
1 of the diffs was not put together right and was leaking. 1 of the CVs in the center was messed up and cross threaded. There was not a pin in one of the drive hexes.
I would give it a good once over.
They do take care of the little tedious stuff though.
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Old 11-30-2007, 09:59 AM   #5659
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Originally Posted by tex1 View Post
The race roller needs to be gone through. I found at least two things that would have been a show stopper if I just put it one track and raced it.
1 of the diffs was not put together right and was leaking. 1 of the CVs in the center was messed up and cross threaded. There was not a pin in one of the drive hexes.
I would give it a good once over.
They do take care of the little tedious stuff though.
TEX
Thanks for the info, maybe yours was put together on a monday, lol
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Old 11-30-2007, 03:03 PM   #5660
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I bough a race roller and a pro kit for for parts I would go through and tighten up the screws on the bottom of the chassis
make sure the setscrews are tight for the cvd's
pull the center drive shafts and put heat shrink around the cvd's
(just like the condoms but cheaper)
check the suspension make sure it moves freely
(with out the shocks on the lower arms)
set the droop and ride height and run it.

make sure you set your ride hight from the front that the flat of the chassis where the front diff sticks through. NOT at the very front of the chassis where it is angled(the kick up)

good luck
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Old 11-30-2007, 03:46 PM   #5661
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I got my Losi Truggy as a race roller.

Did one race meet and the rear diff went in it.

No idea if it was put together wrong or what but my buggy did its diff the same weekend for the first time since I got it last yr.

Id suggest u go over the whole car.
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Old 11-30-2007, 04:15 PM   #5662
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Wow, that must've royaly sucked 12a..
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Old 12-01-2007, 12:27 PM   #5663
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Clutchs on my 8ight are GONE. I can't say i didn't get my monys worht out of them. Anyway what ones should i use for racing there is a lot to choose from it seems like for this buggy. Also if anyone knows what ones should i use in my LST2.
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Old 12-01-2007, 02:08 PM   #5664
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Stock clutch in both use 2 composits and 2 7075 KHZ or maxlifes
for the lst you could try 3 maxlifes but I don't have one to say for sure it might be to much heat build up with the weight of an MT
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Old 12-01-2007, 03:56 PM   #5665
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I've been running 4 carbon shoes and gold springs for a while and I really like that setup. And the life on them is very impressive. I've run the same shoes for over a gallon now.
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Old 12-01-2007, 05:06 PM   #5666
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4 carbons with gold springs on slick or real blown out track or 4 7075s or Max Lifes with 2 gold and 2 silver springs on high bite tracks.
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Old 12-01-2007, 06:12 PM   #5667
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Well, I'm not using a Losi clutch. I run a Mugen flywheel, Mugen aluminum shoes, Mugen 1.0 springs, and a Losi bell. (14t)

Works great! Lasts pretty well, very consistant.

I've never even tried the Losi clutch. I've heard that the combination of plastic and aluminum shoes works well, until you start to get residue from the plastic shoes built up on the bell, then it slips more. I assume you have to clean that frequently.
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Old 12-01-2007, 06:48 PM   #5668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOMIT View Post
Well, I'm not using a Losi clutch. I run a Mugen flywheel, Mugen aluminum shoes, Mugen 1.0 springs, and a Losi bell. (14t)

Works great! Lasts pretty well, very consistant.

I've never even tried the Losi clutch. I've heard that the combination of plastic and aluminum shoes works well, until you start to get residue from the plastic shoes built up on the bell, then it slips more. I assume you have to clean that frequently.
you don't know what your missing

the matainance ( quick buff with some fine sand paper) is no worse than deburring ali shoes and the clutch bell lasts longer as well

but the standard losi ali's wear to quick so either KH 7075's, losi long lifes or dynamite long lifes are the best

Adrian
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Old 12-02-2007, 12:07 PM   #5669
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This may seem like a dumb question but how long should i get out of a set of clutches.
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Old 12-02-2007, 02:08 PM   #5670
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This may seem like a dumb question but how long should i get out of a set of clutches.
that will depend on how you setup the clutch and the way you drive. With a the duratraxx long life shoes and gold springs some people get 3-4 gallons. Others may only get 2. And still others 5 gallons. I run the stock clutch setup which most people will only get a gallon from if that. I typically get 2 out of it.
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