Losi 8ight building and setup
#5656
Tech Elite
iTrader: (79)
You can also go out on the top of the rear shock, that helps rotation at times, it depends on the track and driving style.
And last but not least you can try a thicker swaybar if they make one.
I have the buggy and I'm not familiar with what swaybars they make for the truggy.
Hope that helps
later
Dayton
#5657
Tech Adept
I am interested in your experience with the race roller. We own a Losi Pro kit 8B since June, would like to keep it for practice and race a new one. So the real question is in your experience, would you agree that a Race Roller is assemble as good as if you did it yourself?
The price difference between them is less than $10.
Thanks for you opinions.
The price difference between them is less than $10.
Thanks for you opinions.
#5658
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
The race roller needs to be gone through. I found at least two things that would have been a show stopper if I just put it one track and raced it.
1 of the diffs was not put together right and was leaking. 1 of the CVs in the center was messed up and cross threaded. There was not a pin in one of the drive hexes.
I would give it a good once over.
They do take care of the little tedious stuff though.
TEX
1 of the diffs was not put together right and was leaking. 1 of the CVs in the center was messed up and cross threaded. There was not a pin in one of the drive hexes.
I would give it a good once over.
They do take care of the little tedious stuff though.
TEX
#5659
Tech Adept
The race roller needs to be gone through. I found at least two things that would have been a show stopper if I just put it one track and raced it.
1 of the diffs was not put together right and was leaking. 1 of the CVs in the center was messed up and cross threaded. There was not a pin in one of the drive hexes.
I would give it a good once over.
They do take care of the little tedious stuff though.
TEX
1 of the diffs was not put together right and was leaking. 1 of the CVs in the center was messed up and cross threaded. There was not a pin in one of the drive hexes.
I would give it a good once over.
They do take care of the little tedious stuff though.
TEX
#5660
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
I bough a race roller and a pro kit for for parts I would go through and tighten up the screws on the bottom of the chassis
make sure the setscrews are tight for the cvd's
pull the center drive shafts and put heat shrink around the cvd's
(just like the condoms but cheaper)
check the suspension make sure it moves freely
(with out the shocks on the lower arms)
set the droop and ride height and run it.
make sure you set your ride hight from the front that the flat of the chassis where the front diff sticks through. NOT at the very front of the chassis where it is angled(the kick up)
good luck
make sure the setscrews are tight for the cvd's
pull the center drive shafts and put heat shrink around the cvd's
(just like the condoms but cheaper)
check the suspension make sure it moves freely
(with out the shocks on the lower arms)
set the droop and ride height and run it.
make sure you set your ride hight from the front that the flat of the chassis where the front diff sticks through. NOT at the very front of the chassis where it is angled(the kick up)
good luck
#5662
Wow, that must've royaly sucked 12a..
#5663
Clutchs on my 8ight are GONE. I can't say i didn't get my monys worht out of them. Anyway what ones should i use for racing there is a lot to choose from it seems like for this buggy. Also if anyone knows what ones should i use in my LST2.
#5666
4 carbons with gold springs on slick or real blown out track or 4 7075s or Max Lifes with 2 gold and 2 silver springs on high bite tracks.
#5667
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Fort Worth, Texas, USA, North America, Earth, Solar System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe
Posts: 4,034
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Well, I'm not using a Losi clutch. I run a Mugen flywheel, Mugen aluminum shoes, Mugen 1.0 springs, and a Losi bell. (14t)
Works great! Lasts pretty well, very consistant.
I've never even tried the Losi clutch. I've heard that the combination of plastic and aluminum shoes works well, until you start to get residue from the plastic shoes built up on the bell, then it slips more. I assume you have to clean that frequently.
Works great! Lasts pretty well, very consistant.
I've never even tried the Losi clutch. I've heard that the combination of plastic and aluminum shoes works well, until you start to get residue from the plastic shoes built up on the bell, then it slips more. I assume you have to clean that frequently.
#5668
Well, I'm not using a Losi clutch. I run a Mugen flywheel, Mugen aluminum shoes, Mugen 1.0 springs, and a Losi bell. (14t)
Works great! Lasts pretty well, very consistant.
I've never even tried the Losi clutch. I've heard that the combination of plastic and aluminum shoes works well, until you start to get residue from the plastic shoes built up on the bell, then it slips more. I assume you have to clean that frequently.
Works great! Lasts pretty well, very consistant.
I've never even tried the Losi clutch. I've heard that the combination of plastic and aluminum shoes works well, until you start to get residue from the plastic shoes built up on the bell, then it slips more. I assume you have to clean that frequently.
the matainance ( quick buff with some fine sand paper) is no worse than deburring ali shoes and the clutch bell lasts longer as well
but the standard losi ali's wear to quick so either KH 7075's, losi long lifes or dynamite long lifes are the best
Adrian
#5669
This may seem like a dumb question but how long should i get out of a set of clutches.
#5670
that will depend on how you setup the clutch and the way you drive. With a the duratraxx long life shoes and gold springs some people get 3-4 gallons. Others may only get 2. And still others 5 gallons. I run the stock clutch setup which most people will only get a gallon from if that. I typically get 2 out of it.