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Old 11-01-2007, 06:02 AM   #5566
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Wink Buggy body fit.

The hole thing comes from the body riding to snug to frame. All of them seem to do it. I took a 3mm spacer and glued it under my front body mount post to raise it slightly. It works much better now. Linkages do not hit and the nose of the bodies fit better. It also provides some relief from your pipe catching the body with the air fitting.
All around it is a much better fit than the stock placement.
Hope this helps,
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Old 11-01-2007, 09:25 AM   #5567
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J Concepts. Hands down it fits tighter than the rest, and helps keep dirt out from the front and sides. I have been running the same body since february and it is just starting to crack in a couple of places. I use shoe goo all around the bottom, around the body mounts, and I watch for where the body makes contact with anything else after the first few uses, and smear shoe goo over those too. The body is very strong.
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Old 11-01-2007, 09:46 AM   #5568
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Originally Posted by T Green View Post
from what i have seen the proline crowd pleazer has an issue with the throttle/brake linkage rubbing the body.
It's true that the CP rides lower through the servo brace and kicks up at the batt box, but it's not too much more than the losi body or the jconcepts.

However, if you use JR servos, you'll notice it bigtime, because JR mounting eyelets are a good 2 mm lower on the servo case, setting the throttle linkage that much higher (possibly higher still if there is an angle up from the carb).

I'm now running a futaba throttle servo and it fits cleanly underneath with minimal rubbing.

I still prefer the proline body over the JConcepts based on looks, but I dont think either has any particular advantage over the other and I've seen both run and mounted. There isn't a significant difference in how much dirt you get in there, in my opinion, as the mounting tolerances are pretty much identical. The Losi body absolutely has the shortest lifespan though.
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Old 11-01-2007, 04:16 PM   #5569
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Definately!! When are they going to come out with some alluminum bellcranks that run proper ball bearings on the drag link, instead of those crap sloppy bushings... I have seen an upgraded drag link for sale on A main hobbies site but it doesnt look a whole lot better.
Kingheadz came out with an ackerman/drag link for the Jammin' buggy that used a flanged bearing but the bearings failed if I'm not mistaken. The bearings couldn't handle the axial load and would fall apart.
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Old 11-05-2007, 10:02 AM   #5570
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How is the race roller setup compared to the kit set up? Is there a lot of difference in the way it drives? I'm thinking next year I might start with the roller and see how things go. My truggy has done very well so I'm not too scared to try the B-roller.
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Old 11-05-2007, 04:34 PM   #5571
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hey Air8,

as I understand it the race roller and the kit are identical except for

1. the tyres supplied and colour of the rims

2. the race roller comes pre assembled

3. price the roller is dearer because it comes pre assembled

so if youv'e got the time I would suggest the kit

hope this helps
Adrian

someone might know of other differences also
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Old 11-05-2007, 05:47 PM   #5572
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Originally Posted by o.s. power View Post
Who's the retard now?
You are still, because you're telling me to replace something that isn't needed to be replaced yet when other things that should be spent, could be replaced.

Oh, and 9 out of 10? Looks like the 1 came up for me.
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Old 11-05-2007, 07:40 PM   #5573
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Thank you. I meant to say the suspension set up difference. I think the 8 I have now is going to be electric for the winter. It's actually an excuse to buy a new buggy. LOL! So is the race roller set up a lot different, or a little bit different?
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Old 11-05-2007, 09:10 PM   #5574
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Thank you. I meant to say the suspension set up difference. I think the 8 I have now is going to be electric for the winter. It's actually an excuse to buy a new buggy. LOL! So is the race roller set up a lot different, or a little bit different?
I don't know about the factory set up on the RR but you can set it up to anything you wan't just as you can with the kit because they are the same chassis
so if you like the set up you have on your current 8 just right it down and make the changes to the new car when it arrives

Adrian
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Old 11-06-2007, 02:00 PM   #5575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgewaybodies View Post
I've heard of others using Kyosho rod ends and balls to tighten up the steering and provide longevity. Not sure of the part numbers though.
i did that tomy car works good try it!
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Old 11-06-2007, 04:53 PM   #5576
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the car handels just fine with the slop in it
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Old 11-06-2007, 05:00 PM   #5577
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the car handels just fine with the slop in it
thats what iam talking about:
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Old 11-06-2007, 06:32 PM   #5578
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Most cars usually handle better with a little (not excessive) slop in it. Too little and the car will be very unforgiving. We even build a little slop into on road cars so they're not so overly sensitive to imperfections in the track surface.
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Old 11-06-2007, 06:42 PM   #5579
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I agree with the above statement, but there is a time when slop should be removed by replacing rod ends, hubs etc. In hindsight, I should have sold my 8 and bought a new one, as I have just spent a little over $500 recently replacing almost every part. At least it was fun! Mine was bad...there was no need for a digital servo or even a high dollar steering servo: I had about 10 of slop or more. It was at the point that there was no use trying to setup a precise trim. My A arms were actually bowed
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Old 11-06-2007, 06:44 PM   #5580
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the new arms accually bow after little use. the older ones lasted longer.
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