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Old 10-26-2007, 08:40 PM   #5521
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Thanx Jon. I wish cold weather wasn't here. There's not much outdoor runtime left. i appreciate the info.
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:42 PM   #5522
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I'm running 5-7-2 in my diffs with Losi oil. I want to run Kyosho oil in the diffs what Kyosho oil will be the same?
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Old 10-26-2007, 09:01 PM   #5523
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Thanx Jon. I wish cold weather wasn't here. There's not much outdoor runtime left. i appreciate the info.
NP. I wish it would cool off here a bit. 90+ and <10% humidity is not late October weather.
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Old 10-28-2007, 03:45 PM   #5524
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that's not diff fluid. You need to rebuild your drive shafts - this car requires lots of maintenance to the drive train. Drive shafts need to be rebuilt every 1.5 gallons and replaced every 3 along with the bearings. While the clutch needs to be looked at after every race day.
Yeah, if you drive like a complete retard you need to do all of that stuff that often. Plus I've never heard any of this driveshaft crap from anybody who had this car that I actually know
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Old 10-28-2007, 04:32 PM   #5525
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Yeah, if you drive like a complete retard you need to do all of that stuff that often. Plus I've never heard any of this driveshaft crap from anybody who had this car that I actually know

I'm guessing YOU might be the "retard" here. I for one follow a very intensive maintenance program with the losi.

Now i wouldn't say X part WILL need replacing after X amount of fuel etc, BUT i would say it's the worse buggy I've owned for wearing quickly and as such maintaining it the best you can will help it last that little bit longer. Anyways I always think of maintenance like an insurance policy. Don't bother with it and you'll pay for it come the mains.

BUT i'll stick with the LOSI as it's also the quickest buggy I've owned when it gets to going around a track too
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Old 10-28-2007, 05:07 PM   #5526
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I find the losi to wear very well. I have been running the car since the day it came out and just recently,(one race ago), did a complete rebuild. and all I have ever broke was a 1 rod end in 30 degree weather. I have never DNF'd with this car yet.
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Old 10-28-2007, 05:15 PM   #5527
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I'm guessing YOU might be the "retard" here. I for one follow a very intensive maintenance program with the losi.

Now i wouldn't say X part WILL need replacing after X amount of fuel etc, BUT i would say it's the worse buggy I've owned for wearing quickly
No, where did I say "maintenance is not important," can you please tell me where? So yeah, go screw yourself if you're going to call me a retard for no reason. Now I may be lacking in my program but that's a different story.

FYI, if you build it right the first time, parts won't wear extremely quickly as you claim...I've yet to break in a main because of bad maintenance with this car btw...so yeah.
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Old 10-28-2007, 07:17 PM   #5528
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OK, are we 10 years old here?
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Old 10-28-2007, 07:22 PM   #5529
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[QUOTE=Jon Kerr;3809178]OK, are we 10 years old here? [/QUOTE

lol
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Old 10-28-2007, 07:26 PM   #5530
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OK, are we 10 years old here?
No, I'm guessing 14
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Old 10-28-2007, 08:41 PM   #5531
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here is a pic of the protype part for the front end.

alloy spindles with a vertical ball stud. will allow for role center adjustments with washers.
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Old 10-28-2007, 08:50 PM   #5532
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That looks dialed.
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Old 10-28-2007, 09:09 PM   #5533
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Well if thats it, I am somewhat dissapointed. If the ballstud snaps, its more than a $5 part to replace, unless you can use an easy-out... The old plastic part works just fine as it is. Not to be a downer....

On the other hand, I used my completely rebuilt 8 today and must say rebuilt or not, I enjoy this vehicle VERY much. Also, no matter how much prep one can do, something always tries to find a way to go wrong During quals my RX pack dumped and during the main my rear right tire blew out its foam Oh well, still finished in the top 3. (Not sure which, I don't pay attention to my standings while racing, but I was told that I was somewhere up there) Just had to drive a bit more conservatively.

I think soon I may sell the 8 to try different vehicle, but while looking through my choices, the 8 still seems easiest to work on and clean IMO. Just 11 screws to get the engine/ pipe and radio tray out.
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Old 10-28-2007, 09:57 PM   #5534
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I just like vertical ball studs being an on road guy by nature. They allow much finer tuning of roll centers and camber gain. The thing I don't like about the Losi camber link locations are if you want to raise the inner camber link to lower the roll center, you also have to shorten it too which gives a lot more camber gain and raises the roll center again, pretty much canceling out the lowering effect of raising the location. (I bet that's confusing huh? ) So really all you're adjusting is the camber gain. Roll centers can be very useful when you're trying to fine tune a setup. Having the vertical ball stud on the caster block, you can raise your roll center by adding shims or lower the roll center by taking out shims under the ball stud. That's what I liked about the look of the Trinity rear hubs too.
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Old 10-28-2007, 10:09 PM   #5535
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Ah, I understand what your saying. However, with offroad 8th scale buggy, for most, its best to just change shocks/springs and diff oils. The extra time tuning roll centers is usually best spent practicing instead IMO. However, for the club racer who doesn't travel 90% of the time (me) it may come in handy.
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