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Old 10-26-2007, 03:20 AM   #5506
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Sound like there maybe a new front end being tested at the worlds warm up would love to see some pics of that
I posted all but exactly the same line YESTERDAY, no one seems to know anything about it. I've been unable to find a picture anywhere either !!
Trust me I've been looking too
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Old 10-26-2007, 05:49 AM   #5507
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Actually that engine will be quite the opposite. If broke in properly and coupled to that pipe, it will blow the tires off your car.

They are very strong and made to push a 12 pound truck through mud. The funny thing is it won't sound fast because of the displacement.

I would get something smaller as well. Like John said, an OS 21 VG would be a good starter for you. It will be easy to tune and run great for a long time.

Someone on the boards might trade you or buy it off you. It will give you the money for what you need.

Good luck,
TEX
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Old 10-26-2007, 09:00 AM   #5508
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Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
More 8ight questions...

This is an engine my buddy has and can probably give me. Will this fit in a 8ight Pro or ARR kit without modification or extra pieces to buy? Is the engine even any good?

Sorry for posting a ton of questions. I only race electric TC and plan on getting an 8ight (RTR or kit) and want to have things covered either way.

HPI .25 Engine, Pipe, Header and Rotostart - Fired up only 1 tang and never use again HPI .25 engine from Savage. Header/pipe set are brand new never seen fuel. Rotostart is also brand new, never used before.
I myself ended up getting a .21 OS VSpec and JP1 pipe for my 8. The reason I went with a JP1 because my local track is a meduim size track. I originally wanted to match my engine with an OS T2050/T2060 pipe but cost more money. My total cost was between $330 to $340 with shipping. I know there's a online RC store that sells a combo of the OS .21 Vspec and T2060 pipe for around $340 to $350 with shipping included. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-26-2007, 01:24 PM   #5509
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Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
More 8ight questions...

This is an engine my buddy has and can probably give me. Will this fit in a 8ight Pro or ARR kit without modification or extra pieces to buy? Is the engine even any good?

Sorry for posting a ton of questions. I only race electric TC and plan on getting an 8ight (RTR or kit) and want to have things covered either way.

HPI .25 Engine, Pipe, Header and Rotostart - Fired up only 1 tang and never use again HPI .25 engine from Savage. Header/pipe set are brand new never seen fuel. Rotostart is also brand new, never used before.
hey nexus,

just a couple of problems i can see you might have with this engine in an 8 kit or race roller

1. you'll need to change the engine mounts to the rtr mounts to accept the roto start back plate.

2. the pipe looks like it might not fit as the presure nipple looks to be directly opposite the stinger which means it would hit the fuel tank

3. the carb would need to be reversed ( turned around ) so that the throttle slide is on the other side of the engine

your other option is to just buy the RTR version as it comes with all radio gear and a Mach 427 engine which is a pretty good engine from most of the feed back posted.

what ever you deside the Losi is a great buggy to go for

hope this help
Adrian
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Old 10-26-2007, 01:37 PM   #5510
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What clutch spring with the king headz clutch shoes?
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Old 10-26-2007, 01:42 PM   #5511
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What clutch spring with the king headz clutch shoes?
depends on the track your running on

try starting with 4 gold or 2 gold 2 silver and go from there

if the clutch is too late go a to lighter spring set up maybe 2 black 2 green

or too early 4 silver
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Old 10-26-2007, 02:21 PM   #5512
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Thanks to everyone for the posts and PMs regarding the 8ight. I'm gonna pick the RTR version since I don't race much. Then as things break or I feel like it I will upgrade things like the shocks towers.

For sure I will upgrade the steering servo.

Walt...make room in the pits
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Old 10-26-2007, 02:39 PM   #5513
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You can put the 590 steering serve on throttle/brake and then get an Ace DS1015 for steering. Make sure you get some Panther Switch 2.0's for LH indoor. They are the only tires that work except the Losi pink taper pins, but they don't last.
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Old 10-26-2007, 05:21 PM   #5514
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In the last few weeks, I've felt the car doesn't feel as well as it used to when steering, but I haven't ever taken the diffs apart to put new oil in them.
that's not diff fluid. You need to rebuild your drive shafts - this car requires lots of maintenance to the drive train. Drive shafts need to be rebuilt every 1.5 gallons and replaced every 3 along with the bearings. While the clutch needs to be looked at after every race day.
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Old 10-26-2007, 06:13 PM   #5515
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My clutch gets looked at before every race day and before the main. I usually change the clutch bearings before the main and check the shoes to make sure they're not wearing. I'm running 4 carbons and they seem to hold up very well. Better even than the aluminum ones. I'll put new bearings in for the main, then over the next week when I'm doing my routine teardown to clean the whole car, I check the bearings to make sure they're OK. The slightest bit of crunch and they get tossed. They're cheap. It's worth the $2 a race to make sure I don't blow up a bearing. More than once a clutch bearing has cost me a race.

CVD's get rebuilt (cleaned and re lubed. Not new parts.) every 1-2 race days. Bearings get replaced as soon as they feel gritty. Diff's get re build and filled after 3-4 race days. I will usually do the shocks when they need it. I usually end up making an oil change to try something different before they really need to be rebuilt.
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Old 10-26-2007, 06:20 PM   #5516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
Thanks to everyone for the posts and PMs regarding the 8ight. I'm gonna pick the RTR version since I don't race much. Then as things break or I feel like it I will upgrade things like the shocks towers.

For sure I will upgrade the steering servo.

Walt...make room in the pits
Let me know when you've got your 8ight and I'll meet you at Leisure Hours.
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Old 10-26-2007, 06:38 PM   #5517
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Hey Jon--Can you give a description of what the shocks feel like when you feel the need to rebuild. If I went by that I probably wouldn' change the fluid for a very long time. I don't take them off the car every weekend to see what they're like. New fluid to used fluid feels the same to me. He he
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Old 10-26-2007, 06:44 PM   #5518
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probably because there is no new front end..........seriously there isnt.
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Old 10-26-2007, 07:03 PM   #5519
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probably because there is no new front end..........seriously there isnt.
hey chris
just going on the rumours from Neobuggy

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=2920

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Old 10-26-2007, 08:23 PM   #5520
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Hey Jon--Can you give a description of what the shocks feel like when you feel the need to rebuild. If I went by that I probably wouldn' change the fluid for a very long time. I don't take them off the car every weekend to see what they're like. New fluid to used fluid feels the same to me. He he
Well, I pull the whole car apart after every race day so the shocks are already off the car. I take the springs off the shocks and work them back and forth. If they're no longer pretty close to even in their compression and rebound, they need to be rebuilt. When you work them back and forth, go fairly slow and fairly fast. Make sure you don't feel little vibrations in the shaft or hear a gurgling. That's a sure sign there's air in the shocks or a bad seal.

To make sure the shocks are close to equal, you can either spend a bunch of money on the Losi shock tool, or you can take the shocks, put them end to end, and push. They should collapse at about the same rate and rebound about the same. I don't get too anal about them being perfect. This is off road after all. It's not like my Mi3 where they need to be identical or the car's going to feel tweaked.
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