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Old 10-25-2007, 12:18 PM   #5491
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Yeah the Ace servos have been serving me well. I let a friend drive my 8T and he broke one of the servos. But it was just a bronze gear that was pressed onto a steel gear. Replaced the gearset and all is still good. I started using them about March or April. But i also started racing 8th scale in late January.

I'm bad with maintenance. I have 13 gallons on my car. I've had it apart several times for cleaning, replacing diff oil, shock oil. But never have broken an arm or shock stand-off. I even had two run-aways at the RC Pro race in OKC. I have had several bearings shell out. But they always let you know before they go. So when I hear them I replace them. Or when I'm cleaning I always check them for gritty feeling. I'm not good with maintaining but I have to give props to this buggy and truggy for putting up with me. Hell, I've only bought three pairs of KH clutch shoes since I started racing this year. Once the stock one wore out I started using the KH shoes and just touch them up every 2 weekends. They are awesome clutch shoes.

Oh, I did have a crash one time that stopped my buggy in mid air. It broke stuff. But it broke the front of the front diff case. The front inner hinge pin cover, the plastic spacers on the front shock tower, and the front bumper. But I still use the bumper. lol
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Old 10-25-2007, 12:29 PM   #5492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
Has anyone bought or have experience with the 8ight Race Roller?

Sorry I'm lazy now and do not want to build a kit. I'm considering the Race Roller and/or the RTR. Just trying to figure out what is a better value.
If you already have a radio, RX, H/S & H/T servos, engine and pipe then it's worth getting the roller kit. But if you don't have any of them, then get the RTR. I wished I have gotten the roller kit instead, I ended up selling for a fair amount of profit the RTR radio gear (since I already have a M11 & RX), engine/pipe and body/wing.
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Old 10-25-2007, 12:36 PM   #5493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyper7vspec View Post
9-10 Gallons?? WHAT?

my car gets a full rebuild every 2 meets,it gets shocks redone every meet aswell.

That really is a testament to how durable the car is!

He meant "new parts" rebuild as in he's replacing nearly every part (chassis, diff cases, arms, steering rack, pins, etc). He rebuilds obsessively already (once a week).
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Old 10-25-2007, 12:37 PM   #5494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyper7vspec View Post
9-10 Gallons?? WHAT?

my car gets a full rebuild every 2 meets,it gets shocks redone every meet aswell.

That really is a testament to how durable the car is!
Well, I do take it apart every time that it is out. I clean it to make it look new again, replace anything worn etc. Thats just what I broke. I replaced quite a few diff cases, alot of KH shoes (I replace the shoes after 2mm of wear), CVDs/driveshafts etc. I am completely anal about maintenance. Shoot, if I dont have time to clean/maintain my vehicle, I won't race, but will show up to turn-marshal. I absolutely HATE DNFing because of an ill-maintained vehicle.

The engine goes through the same routine. (replace conrod, check for slop, clean outside and inside) I got 9 gallons on my WS7II before crankpin play cause excess vibrations and it would rev to high rpm without stalling.
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Old 10-25-2007, 12:46 PM   #5495
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The longest I'll keep a car is about 6 gallons of fuel. I have 2.5 gallons on my 8ight now and its been pretty good. I just had to buy a new front center cvd but so far I'm happy. I figure about the time I wear out the new one I put in it will be time for a new car.

I could stretch them alot farther I'm sure but I prefer to sell them before they get too beat up and buy something new. I figure the money to do a total rebuild on a car is near or higher than the cost difference between the sale price and the new price.
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Old 10-25-2007, 12:55 PM   #5496
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Hey Rezenclowd, where do you measure the shoes at for the 2mm of wear?
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Old 10-25-2007, 01:05 PM   #5497
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Has anyone tried any of the aftermarket chassis's for the 8ight?
I see some some on auction sites and they advertise as thicker versions.'
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Old 10-25-2007, 02:55 PM   #5498
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Quote:
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Hey Rezenclowd, where do you measure the shoes at for the 2mm of wear?
I measure the leading edge "face." I do this because of my old onroad days. Clutch "gap" is used to also tune when the shoes engage. Worn shoes engage later because 1) they have less mass 2) They are further from the clutch bell, therefore it takes a higher RPM to engage. If you use them much further than this, the surface area also decreases. I use the shoes till this is just about gone:
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Losi 8ight building and setup-kp-209-7.jpg  
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Last edited by rezenclowd3; 10-25-2007 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 10-25-2007, 03:43 PM   #5499
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Yeah, this car holds up great. Now I don't get to race much, I've had the car since December and ran about 14 races now on it, so that's about 4 gallons on the car. But I'll tell you something, I've hardly ever taken the car apart. I've only replaced the clutch shoes twice (after running on two very hard packed indoor tracks, then mid-season teardown) and only rebuilt the shocks once. In the last few weeks, I've felt the car doesn't feel as well as it used to when steering, but I haven't ever taken the diffs apart to put new oil in them. The chassis has a bit of wear, but it will last another season at the rate I'm racing this car. So yeah, I basically just throw it down and PUNCH IT!
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Old 10-25-2007, 03:53 PM   #5500
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hahahaha. You sound as bad as I do. LOL. J/K. At the beginning of the summer I was racing mine three days in a row. Every Fri, Sat, and Sun. That went on for a couple months and then the tracks changed around the schedules and it was only twice a weekend. It was awesome. It really showed me how tough the Losi is. During that time I'd change the shock oil every 2nd weekend and change the diff fluids once a month. I just replaced my first diff gasket on the center diff at 11 gallons. It finally started to leak on me. I think Losi did a great job with this buggy.
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Old 10-25-2007, 04:42 PM   #5501
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Wow....I get 1 day out of my diffs, by that time the rear is fading quite fast. I use 5-7-2. Shocks I sometimes will leave as long as they still have my desired rebound. I just find the maintenance to be as fun as racing. Though I HATE dirty vehicles also...one reason I am getting back into onroad, even though this time its booring electric

This last outing I tried full rebound in the front and 3/4 rebound in the back (I had a tough time getting full rebound in the rear) with the ability to push the shocks in all the way w/o too much force. On my track (which you can see a few pages back) this was DIALED. It helps the new dirt is über sticky when watered too much, left to soak in, then water a fine mist again. With full rebound, the car felt less "flat" (ie flat tire feel) It was quick to respond, landed jumps with a plush "whoomp" sound, little to no chassis slap, and full bore down the straight was solid! Corners were tricky because of the traction, but I felt to have a little push on power, but the rear end was absolutely glued, and this suited me just fine, as it felt like the old days of when I was a noob to onroad. The rear could break loose with a little more throttle input, and it helps to use a C6BB . I have been testing the stock clutch setup again, and with the sticky track, I get quite a bit less wheelspin, but I also dont have a heavy trigger finger, nor do I blip the throttle during cornering. Damn, this post is driving me nuts! Just a couple more days till race day!!!!
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Old 10-25-2007, 05:18 PM   #5502
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I need to try more frequent maintenance and see if I notice more consitency. I know what you mean by having fun working on them. When I don't work the weekends, I have 4-5 vehicles I could drive in one weekend. GT2, T4, XXX-CR, 8ight, and 8ight-T. But these take up my time between having my daughter and going to bed. I rarely get my daughter on the weekends so it works out good. I enjoy working on all of them though. Except when parts don't fit, then I get frustrated. lol
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Old 10-25-2007, 06:51 PM   #5503
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More 8ight questions...

This is an engine my buddy has and can probably give me. Will this fit in a 8ight Pro or ARR kit without modification or extra pieces to buy? Is the engine even any good?

Sorry for posting a ton of questions. I only race electric TC and plan on getting an 8ight (RTR or kit) and want to have things covered either way.

HPI .25 Engine, Pipe, Header and Rotostart - Fired up only 1 tang and never use again HPI .25 engine from Savage. Header/pipe set are brand new never seen fuel. Rotostart is also brand new, never used before.
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:02 PM   #5504
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The best way I can think to equate that to electric to make since (being a converted electric TC racer too as you know ) that's like trying to race mod TC running a 13 turn with bushings in it when everyone else is running 3.5 brushless. It's basher stuff. Which is fine if that's what you're doing.

Of you're going to be racing, I'd suggest getting something that's not a roto-start and a legal, .21 size. There are a bunch of budget minded engines out there that are plenty good for racing. The OS VG engine, even a stock OS V-spec is a very good engine for a really good price. You'll just need to get a starter box. But that's something you should do anyway if you're getting into 1/8 scale.
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:25 PM   #5505
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Default NEW LOSI FRONT END

Sound like there maybe a new front end being tested at the worlds warm up would love to see some pics of that
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