Losi 8ight building and setup
10-22-2007, 11:39 AM
#5447
Tech Adept
10-22-2007, 12:21 PM
#5448
what servos would you recomend on a budget?
10-22-2007, 02:22 PM
#5450
I had 4 Airtronics 358's in my 8 and wanted to try something new. My Futaba BL451's (digital and brushless .10 @ 140oz/in) arrived last week and I have used them all weekend dishing out quite a bit of abuse (as observed by Kcdzim) They are definitely a hair quicker than the Airtronics (however some are over 2 years old, but 2 have had the motors replaced and gears checked by Airtronics not too long ago) There is more than enough torque for both throttle and steering, they are very smooth, but while driving, I do not think I noticed much of a difference except for the slop that I didn't have anymore from a worn geartrain. Overall, I like them very much, and am using them in HRS mode with my 3PKS and FASST. Not bad for $100 a pop. I was swinging between these and the JR9000S or JR9100S when it becomes available, but I feel that the faster transit speeds are not needed as I am a smooth driver, and not a "slam and jam" on the sticks.
10-22-2007, 04:31 PM
#5453
For anyone interested, I have updated the adjustable hinge pin brace manual with the correct toe settings. http://rev-rc.com/LOSA1755.pdf
It's advertised as 1-3° toe and 2-4° antisquat, but that's backwards.
I did accidently run 4° toe the other week though and was dialed!
It's advertised as 1-3° toe and 2-4° antisquat, but that's backwards.
I did accidently run 4° toe the other week though and was dialed!
10-22-2007, 04:56 PM
#5454
With the servos it was less than 1 week. I was only 3 hours from their Anaheim HQ at the time, before they moved. However, during shipping there, it was lost in the mail for 2 weeks, so I called and asked what was up. The nice lady on the other end of the phone informed me they hadn't received them, but because of the situation, it was bumped to a higher priority. Before that I sent my M11 in for a checkup before I sold it, and that was about 1.5 weeks from the time I shipped till the time it got back to me. I would say their customer service is pretty much as good as it gets so far.
BTW I saw in my last post it says I had 4 358s in my 8ight. It was 2 in the 8ight and 2 spares.
BTW I saw in my last post it says I had 4 358s in my 8ight. It was 2 in the 8ight and 2 spares.
10-22-2007, 07:27 PM
#5455
For anyone interested, I have updated the adjustable hinge pin brace manual with the correct toe settings. http://rev-rc.com/LOSA1755.pdf
It's advertised as 1-3° toe and 2-4° antisquat, but that's backwards.
I did accidently run 4° toe the other week though and was dialed!
It's advertised as 1-3° toe and 2-4° antisquat, but that's backwards.
I did accidently run 4° toe the other week though and was dialed!
10-23-2007, 01:02 AM
#5457
hi
Sorry but i have a little question ?
Can i put in my 8T diff, a Torsen Diff or Terex diff ?
Sorry but i have a little question ?
Can i put in my 8T diff, a Torsen Diff or Terex diff ?
10-23-2007, 03:45 AM
#5458
Wow, never thought of that. 8t ring and pinion would be some crazy bottom.
10-23-2007, 06:36 AM
#5459
Tech Adept
Hi.
I am wondering about getting all hinge pins, and turnbuckles in titanium, anyone know how much weight this will save? Should i go for the complete screw kit in titanium also? more saved weight?
Are the TI screws just as strong as the original, or are they weaker?
Have anyone tried 25 with 55s in the rear? i am having problems with the rear switching place with my front, when i hit a big bump on the straight.
Many questions
I am wondering about getting all hinge pins, and turnbuckles in titanium, anyone know how much weight this will save? Should i go for the complete screw kit in titanium also? more saved weight?
Are the TI screws just as strong as the original, or are they weaker?
Have anyone tried 25 with 55s in the rear? i am having problems with the rear switching place with my front, when i hit a big bump on the straight.
Many questions
10-23-2007, 07:03 AM
#5460
The TI turnbuckles will save a little weight and it will do it up off the chassis where it will change handeling. The lighter your upper mass is the quicker the car can change directions. Keep in mind this can be too much for some drivers.
TI screws are not as strong as the ones that came in the kit. The blck screws are some of the best you will see in this industry. The lighter silver ones are softer. Going TI will help with the weight. I use the old Associated Alum screws for the radio tray and the chassis. This saves the most weight and I have never had a problem with the screws breaking or backing out.
On the rear shocks you need to go to 35-40 if you run 55 pistons w/ green springs.
On the rear go to green springs and run 40 with 55s as well.
Set your ride heights and you will be fine.
Let us know how it goes.
TEX
TI screws are not as strong as the ones that came in the kit. The blck screws are some of the best you will see in this industry. The lighter silver ones are softer. Going TI will help with the weight. I use the old Associated Alum screws for the radio tray and the chassis. This saves the most weight and I have never had a problem with the screws breaking or backing out.
On the rear shocks you need to go to 35-40 if you run 55 pistons w/ green springs.
On the rear go to green springs and run 40 with 55s as well.
Set your ride heights and you will be fine.
Let us know how it goes.
TEX