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Old 09-28-2007, 08:54 PM   #5236
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The Losi Lipo does fit with the flat battery cover, you will have to put the regulator in the receiver box.
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Old 09-29-2007, 05:01 AM   #5237
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The Losi Lipo does fit with the flat battery cover, you will have to put the regulator in the receiver box.
Can you post a picture of your losi lipo setup?

I'd like to see the regulator in the receiver section, that has to be a tight fit.
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Old 09-29-2007, 08:33 AM   #5238
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Can you post a picture of your losi lipo setup?

I'd like to see the regulator in the receiver section, that has to be a tight fit.
Camera is broke. Take my word for it, it is STUFFED. I run the Spektrum pro reciever, anything biggger may not work.
The only thing I dont like is this. Why the hell did Losi put a weird balancing port on thier packs? All the other lipo companies use a standard plug. Losi's will only fit thier own charger. It's scary (for me) to solder lipo packs, but it looks like I have to.
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Old 09-29-2007, 08:53 AM   #5239
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Hey guys... I haven't read this thread for a while... just popped in.

Voltage regulators are known to cause some rf interference... so be careful if you have it stuffed in the rx box. It may be fine... and I don't know if the spectrum would be affected or not. Maybe the 2.4g won't have any issues.

Soldering on lipos.... not a big deal if you are careful, and have some experience. Just use a good iron and solder so you can do a quick joint, and use a damp rag etc to cool the joint as soon as it's done.

Unsoldering a lipo pack is more of a pain....
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Old 09-29-2007, 02:58 PM   #5240
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Best regulator ever.....use 2 10A diodes in series with the wires from your switch to your rx. Drops 1.4V from your lipo.I glue them together, sand them flat and glue the reg to the side of the switch.
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Old 09-30-2007, 08:36 PM   #5241
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Retro,

You might consider changing the neutral ride height setting. Get your front up and your rear down. That alone will tame the car quite a bit when going through the rough stuff. If you run stiffer springs in the front it won't dig in and swap ends on you.

I have found the Losi likes 5K-5K-3K when running on very rough tracks. Any wheel that hits a rough will now not diff out and make the car twitchy. You will see greater on power steering to power out of stuff.

Roll center adjustments should be personal preference and will not have as big of an overall effect as the neutral camber setting. To keep the tire off the edge more you might consider running -2 camber where yo might have been running -1 before.

I like to add down travel to 97 & 108 but I run stiffer sway bars. This seems to work for me but it might not be for everybody.

Tires, tires, tires. You need to run a set that will not catch an edge. This is the biggest thing you can do.

Hope this helps,
TEX
thanks Tex,

will definately be trying the suggestions unfortunately I don't get alot of testing time due to work- family commitments etc so every little bit of info is appreciated

thanks again Adrian
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Old 09-30-2007, 10:25 PM   #5242
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Originally Posted by Mater View Post
Best regulator ever.....use 2 10A diodes in series with the wires from your switch to your rx. Drops 1.4V from your lipo.I glue them together, sand them flat and glue the reg to the side of the switch.
Why didnt I remember that? We used to have to do that in the old wiper speedo days to drop the main pack voltage down to receiver level.
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Old 10-01-2007, 10:39 AM   #5243
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Jack Smash, yip this works very well,doesnt get hot and even if the leads short out the diode gets hot and desolder itself.Ive made these for all my buddies and we havent had one failure.With this reg I can run a 45min main on a 1000mA lipo pack,but with the fancy regs. only 30 min.I think the rest is lost as heat.I can run 3 qualifiers and a 30 min main on a 1500mA pack.Also one must look at thicker wires from the batt box to the switch,as there will be a voltage drop with high power servos if the wire is to thin.For every 0.3v drop you can loose about 20% of servo speed!
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Old 10-02-2007, 12:38 AM   #5244
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Exclamation RTR ugrade of motor and pipe. Need help!!

Need help from my fellow 8B owners.

I have plans in the near future of upgrading the stock .27 motor that came with my RTR 8 for club racing and need to choose the best option that won't be too much $$ to burn but worth the upgrade.

Here are my options:

1. Keep the stock motor and pipe as it is (no cost)

2. Keep the stock motor and change pipe to a Jammin' JP-2 ($65)

3. O.S. .21 VG (P) with stock pipe ($133)

4. O.S. .21 VG (P) with Jammin JP-2 pipe ($198)

5. O.S. Max .21 VZ-B V-Spec-T (P) with stock pipe ($260)

6. O.S. Max .21 VZ-B V-Spec-T (P) with Jammin JP-2 pipe ($325)

Prices shown include shipping costs already. Also options 3 to 4 would require me to purchase a starter box ($80 - $90) or I can just use my existing starter box for my nitro TC and just reconfigure the pullies (no cost).

Any input/opinion would be appreciated before I decide to upgrade or not.
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Old 10-02-2007, 12:44 AM   #5245
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A V-Spec without a 2050 pipe is a waste.
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Old 10-02-2007, 01:35 AM   #5246
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imo i think sticking with the rtr engine would be good to start racing as long as the club dont get upset with the bigger engine( their not bad for power), if you stick with the racing or go to big meets were you need a legal engine i do like the os vz 21 and os pipe, ps your onroad starter box should work too if you set it up right.
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Old 10-02-2007, 05:17 AM   #5247
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Are you just getting going??

Sounds like you are running the RTR. I would not worry about the motor and/or pipe. In the buggy the RTR 427 flat rips. Just get it on the track and learn the ropes.

If you have money to spend on the car and it is burning a hole in your pocket, pick you up some good servos.

I think you will find when you have the right tire, good servos and a setup that is half way decent... your motor will not give up anything in the way of power.

Honestly, I would not spend any money on a motor until you get your feet under you with the car.

The order for upgrading would be OS-2050 pipe then Vspec. If you are just club racing then don't get a Vspec. Get a cheaper alternative. There are a lot of good mills out there for half the price.

Hope this helps,
TEX
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:12 AM   #5248
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I totally agree with Tex .
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Old 10-02-2007, 02:37 PM   #5249
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You guys were talking about rough track setup earlier. I have found that 3k, 5k, 2k works best for me. The 5k in the center helped me stay on the gas coming out of the corners and the 3k in front would let me dive deeper in the turn off power. It also helped me to run the short-middle front camber link and 5A link in the rear to get it through the bumps better. Go to the 2 degree rear link if the bumps are sharp, the 3 will kick your car around.

I am running 30/55 front and 25/56 rear for shock oil. I also have been running the red front spring.

I have ran this setup for the last 2 races and it was easy to drive on rough tracks, the last race had tires, and roots and stuff sticking out of the ground and it was still easy to drive over all that stuff. I lapped the entire field twice in a 30 minute race and I can tell you that driving the rough track had nothing to do with it, this car is fast with this setup. We are going to a hard packed clay track this weekend and the only thing I plan on changing are is the 2 degree anti-squat block to 3 degrees and put 7k in the center instead of the 5k.

Hope this helps,

Kendall

Last edited by Kendall Welch; 10-02-2007 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:24 PM   #5250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kendall Welch View Post
You guys were talking about rough track setup earlier. I have found that 3k, 5k, 2k works best for me. The 5k in the center helped me stay on the gas coming out of the corners and the 3k in front would let me dive deeper in the turn off power. It also helped me to run the short-middle front camber link and 5A link in the rear to get it through the bumps better. Go to the 2 degree rear link if the bumps are sharp, the 3 will kick your car around.

I am running 30/55 front and 25/56 rear for shock oil. I also have been running the red front spring.

I have ran this setup for the last 2 races and it was easy to drive on rough tracks, the last race had tires, and roots and stuff sticking out of the ground and it was still easy to drive over all that stuff. I lapped the entire field twice in a 30 minute race and I can tell you that driving the rough track had nothing to do with it, this car is fast with this setup. We are going to a hard packed clay track this weekend and the only thing I plan on changing are is the 2 degree anti-squat block to 3 degrees and put 7k in the center instead of the 5k.

Hope this helps,

Kendall
1 Q's when you build the shocks do you make them to hve any rebound? If yes, how much 1/2 to 3/4?
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