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Old 09-16-2007, 06:20 PM   #5116
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thanks for your fast reply. the back end of it keeps pushing out around the corners and when you take the stutters you need to go really slow otherwise it just flips and turns around.
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Old 09-16-2007, 06:21 PM   #5117
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set up is standard
thanks
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Old 09-16-2007, 06:24 PM   #5118
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if you could pm me the setup you think would help that would be great

thanks
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Old 09-16-2007, 08:09 PM   #5119
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You may want to put Aaron Waldron's setup on. He posted a few pages back the changes he's made to the setup from stock. I haven't run on a track like what you're describing so I really don't have a specifice setup for you. Someone else may though.
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Old 09-16-2007, 08:11 PM   #5120
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Default Now I need some help

I posted a thread about this in the Engine's forum but it doesn't get looked at as much. So I'm hoping you guys can help. Here's the thread I posted:

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I'm running an OS EB Mods V-Spec .21 in my 8IGHT. I've got about 3/4 gallon through it. So far every race day, I've gone through a P3 (the plugs EB says to run in the engine) plug. And they're not burning up. The elements are breaking. Twice I've had them break in the middle of a main where the car will stall, then when it won't start again, we pull the plug out and the element is broken. Every other time, it's after the main, I go to put after run oil in and check the plug and it's broken. The engine runs great, but what's the deal? I'm still not really clear on the different plugs. Is a higher number hotter or colder? Would you run a colder plug in hot humid weather? etc... It's been really hot and humid around here lately (100+ and very humid) so I don't know if the P3 is too hot of a plug for that kind of weather or what. I was running O'Donnell 30% and I've started running Nitrotane 30% and it's done it with both fuels. I've got a bunch of Orion Turbo 6 plugs that I could use. I ran one in a qualifier and not having time to tune the needles, it ran like crap. Would that be a better plug? Is it a hotter or colder plug.

Sorry for the rookie questions. Still trying to wrap my head around tuning nitro engines.
Anyone have any ideas?
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Old 09-16-2007, 08:27 PM   #5121
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If the element broke, pull the engine apart and check for parts of the element within and in the bearings. ANY debris in the engine can cause havok and kill plugs, AND performance.
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Old 09-16-2007, 10:48 PM   #5122
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ok thanks for your help mate
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:25 AM   #5123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr View Post
I posted a thread about this in the Engine's forum but it doesn't get looked at as much. So I'm hoping you guys can help. Here's the thread I posted:



Anyone have any ideas?
For the record, I've been running a P3 in my standard VSpec all summer - not once has an incident like this happened despite the fact I'm pushing 300 degrees with my engine (usually around 285-290), though it usually only gets up to about 85-90 on the hottest days here. If I were you though I would do what rezenclowd3 said as well as trying a P6.
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:54 AM   #5124
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hey jon are you running the extra head shim?? sounds like a classic case of over compression.Try adding the supplied additional head shim and that should fix it,if you are over compressed.

The plug is right i have run many v-specs from stock to JP Modified to the Speed version.I have run P3's in every single engine,i tried many other plugs but the P3 ran the best in every condition.

hope i helped , let me know if it fixes your problem
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Old 09-17-2007, 05:05 AM   #5125
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Jon -
The plug thing is mechanical. You should be OK with the shim after a good tear down and cleaning. I don't run these motors but there are some local OS guys that only run the P3 and nothing else.
Hyper is on the money.

Nitro Rat -
Do you want to have a setup sheet from our latest ProSeries race? Our track was a lot like what you are describing. Dusty and the bumps would throw you around on your nose.
Let me know and I'll get one posted.
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Old 09-17-2007, 12:02 PM   #5126
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Doesn't sound like Jon Kerr needs the extra shim, he said he's ran two different types of 30%...so I would assume he already had it on there.
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Old 09-17-2007, 08:19 PM   #5127
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anyone know how to make the aluminum rear chassis brace fit on the 8ight rtr? i've already ground off the lower right support wedge on the motor backplate and it's still a little off. anyone else had this problem?
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Old 09-17-2007, 10:08 PM   #5128
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Default 8ight setup

Just thought I would repost this for any noobs out there. Good setup info.

Losi 8ight building and setup
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Old 09-17-2007, 10:26 PM   #5129
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Hey Jon sounds like high compression as well. the higher the number the colder the plug. the P3 is the plug of choice untill it gets super cold outside then you will want to try a p4 just a tad colder.

let us know if the extra shim helped.
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Old 09-18-2007, 02:08 AM   #5130
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Hi all

I see the a lot of you are using the T3/A3 block in the rear, BUT, i saw in an erlier posting, that if the track became messes up (big holes, bumpy) during a raceday, going back to T3/A2 was the thing to do.
I thought that when the track get messed up, more antisquat was the way to go? am i wrong?

Another thing, what should i change from a standard setup (race roller), to make the car beahave better when track gets messed up, big holes, kraters etc
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