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Old 08-23-2007, 09:52 AM   #4966
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getting ready for the regionals



SWEEEEET!!
Hey, is that a smoothy on the stadium truck? Well good luck with the Regionals and let everyone know I says hello and they are lucky Im not gonna be there as you know I love to hack.


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Ill ask a couple of the fast guy's here that are sponsered by Losi. Ill pm you as soon as i get the info.
How come I wasnt the first person you asked?jk.


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Ah...I just saw the new brushless Futaba servos.
Has anyone tried the brushless Futaba servos yet?
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:20 AM   #4967
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You are limiting your thinking by running the same shock package front and rear. Even with the same oil and pistons in front and rear shocks, the mounitng holes and arm lengths are different, plus different weight distribution front to rear and CG heights. You might even be further off from the same shock performance by making the shocks the same than someone running 56/40 in the front and 54/25 in the rear.
Very good point.
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Old 08-23-2007, 12:05 PM   #4968
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Originally Posted by cota348 View Post
Thanks ridgewaybodies for your post and pictures, I see that your regulator is inside the receiver box as well, but I have been told to place mine where it gets some air.
There is a heatsink on my regulator. I haven't had any problems with mine being in side the RX box, even during a long main.
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Old 08-23-2007, 05:20 PM   #4969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Smash View Post
You are limiting your thinking by running the same shock package front and rear. Even with the same oil and pistons in front and rear shocks, the mounitng holes and arm lengths are different, plus different weight distribution front to rear and CG heights. You might even be further off from the same shock performance by making the shocks the same than someone running 56/40 in the front and 54/25 in the rear.
Actually tried the stock setup for quite a while. I kept running into trouble with super excessive chassis slap. Played with the rear where it would not do that so bad and found the 55 @ 40 wt worked the best.
On the front I was running the stock setup and would scrub the face of jumps and the car would want to get on it's nose real bad in the corners. Went to green springs and then needed more dampening for the increased rate. I ended up with smaller 55 diameter pistons and kept the weight of 40 for the oil.
It just happened to work that way. I changed to even smaller holes for my indoor setup and then went to 55.5 pistons to counter what I was seeing.
It is funney how it worked out that it was all almost even.
I will go up and down now and then on the oils but I always seem to come back to this setup.
Honestly, I do drive the car flat and as fast as possible everywhere. More on road style than anything. It does seem to look different on the track but it works for me.
Our local track has a hard time with building landing areas comming off of jumps so this could have something to with it as well.
It is different but it does seem to work for me. Everyone that has driven it seems to like it as well.
Anyways, Good luck with what ever you run.
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:54 PM   #4970
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thanks. my front brake doesn't even engage enough to ever stop the car. when i roll it on the bench with only the front wheels down it barely slows them
We have found out that on a tight technical track not to use any limiting on the front or rear arms. This kills the intial entry steering on the buggy. Also, using drag brake will make your runs more consistant (faster) and aid in offpower steering by getting the weight over the steering wheels. You might want to add in some of that front brake you took out if you use the drag brakes. I would recommend using green springs all the way around because it makes the buggy feel better to me. As pointed out eariler having the correct tire is more critical on the losi otherwise it will be bad loose. Try the M3 Holeshots for that track.
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Old 08-23-2007, 11:00 PM   #4971
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is running drag brake something alot of people do? do you just add to the rear? What type of tracks do you add drag break on?
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:49 AM   #4972
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Originally Posted by sport10 View Post
We have found out that on a tight technical track not to use any limiting on the front or rear arms. This kills the intial entry steering on the buggy.
Don't get this as by having no droop limiting your allowing the maximium possible weight transfere, Which in turn would give the car lots of turn in as the rear shoots up in the air before the corner and poor exit corner steering as the front rises throwing the weight to the rear as you accelerate out of the corner ???
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Old 08-24-2007, 07:01 AM   #4973
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Don't get this as by having no droop limiting your allowing the maximium possible weight transfere, Which in turn would give the car lots of turn in as the rear shoots up in the air before the corner and poor exit corner steering as the front rises throwing the weight to the rear as you accelerate out of the corner ???
You are over exagerating it. Using full droop in the rear will give the car more turn in buy allowing the rear to rotate more in a corner. If it is too much you can take some of the droop out. I believe most setups I have seen already run full droop in the front as this car does not lack for on power steering.
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Old 08-24-2007, 07:09 AM   #4974
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is running drag brake something alot of people do? do you just add to the rear? What type of tracks do you add drag break on?
By setting the brakes to drag slightly when the throttle is at idle you can be more consistant than trying to do it with your finger. You will have to adjust your driving style some as the car will not roll as far when the throttle is put at idle though. Something to try and see if it helps. It helps on tracks that where you have alot of tight corners.
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Old 08-24-2007, 03:18 PM   #4975
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anyone interrest in 19 and 24gram flywheels for the 8? they are cnc machined out of super hard chromolly steel. they come oxidized black. i have been running a 24gram for a 4 gallons on my 8 and you can't even see spring marks in the flywheel. the heavier flywheels smooth the motor. 19 for the truggies 24 for da buggies. they are 30.00 a piece. just checking interest
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:43 PM   #4976
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K how do you find the spool up with more weight? do you have a bit slower spool and more thrtle response? how about torque. did you find an increase in low end torque, or more specificaly Traction due to not blowing into the powerband and loosing traction to wheel spin?

a buddy of mine wants to test some flywheel weights for our big gasser motors to help control spool up by adding some rotating mass to the motor on the clucth side. so the results would be similar, and was wondering how your motor reacted to more rotating mass on the motor.
Thanx for your input. also note; its this very info that 8 owners will want to know which may create interest for those with traction/spinning issues.

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Old 08-25-2007, 02:39 AM   #4977
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I would think it works just like a Motorcycle Fly wheel weight

http://www.steahlyoffroad.com/about_...yweights.shtml
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Old 08-25-2007, 05:06 AM   #4978
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I have been running the 24 gram on my buggy and it feels smoother comming out of corners on the gas.
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Old 08-25-2007, 03:03 PM   #4979
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I would think it works just like a Motorcycle Fly wheel weight

http://www.steahlyoffroad.com/about_...yweights.shtml

I put weights like that on my old CR250. Helped alot.
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Old 08-25-2007, 11:49 PM   #4980
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Wow, I never would of thought about tuning with the flywheel. Cool.
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