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Old 08-22-2007, 08:46 PM   #4951
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Originally Posted by freefallmarine View Post
You mean the back corner table top?
the section that is straight out across from the driver stand on the back section in the middle
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:52 PM   #4952
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the section that is straight out across from the driver stand on the back section in the middle
this section
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:15 PM   #4953
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lots less front brake.....try soft gators on the front and ms k2's on the back. it will make it steer like a champ
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:17 PM   #4954
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thanks. my front brake doesn't even engage enough to ever stop the car. when i roll it on the bench with only the front wheels down it barely slows them
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:49 PM   #4955
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve View Post
how many of you run your 8's with a diff setup other than 5/7/2 . my 8 always feel loose and like it has no steering. i always run the local hot tire,check ride height,droop ,shocks drilled 54/40 molded 56/25 3/3 plate standard link setup everybody else runs. i don't know if the car just isn't suited for me or what. some say i overdrive it to hard and that's why it's like that. the only way i've been able to get it to feel right was the shortest link in the front and 3k in the front diff but it still pushes or feels loose. any suggestions oh and i've check all the hinge pins and the servo saver works properly with a truggy spring
I've been running 5,7,1 in my diffs for a while now. I have to change the rear end didd fluid more often, but It works well for me.
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Old 08-23-2007, 02:31 AM   #4956
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Pink, I just ran there last weekend and I found that inside jobs gave me the best steering. Soft switches were pretty good also with the rear end raised just a little.
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Old 08-23-2007, 04:55 AM   #4957
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Originally Posted by 22Racer View Post

Tex, are you the guy that came up to Minneapolis a couple years ago to race indoor offroad?

Rex
Wasn't me. Hold on....Was the guy real fast? Then it definitly was not me!

Tex
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Old 08-23-2007, 05:16 AM   #4958
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Sleeve,
I have found the Losi has a couple of characteristics other cars do not have. Getting the chassis stable is the first thing. I run the same shock setup all the way around to keep the car from transfering too quickly which makes it easy to drive. My theory is this is what makes the car twitchy for some.
56 pistons with 3 holes drilled to 55. Start with 40 Wt oil all the way around.
Sound weird but my car does look different than the others on the track.
Start with the Med sway bars in both front and rear.
Set your ride height where the front is 1mm lower than the rear when it is on the table.
Limit your travel to 98mm Frt & 108mm in the rear.
Set your wheel base in the middle.
Run your shocks and camber links in the stock locations.
Use Green springs all the way around.
I run the short Ackermann place with bump stops in the top position to add steering.
5/7/2 in the diffs.

You need more tire on the Losi than you need on other cars. It is lighter.
I love M3 Bowties and Panther KD IIs MS with the out sides cut at an angle.
I have not found a place they will not work.

What do the locals say is the hot tire at your track?

Hope this helps.
TEX
<------- Not done yet!!
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Old 08-23-2007, 07:35 AM   #4959
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Is there a Losi Starter Box thread? I couldn't find one. Oh well.

Are the plastic pinions on the motors pressed on? I was looking at switching motors for comparison sake, and I didn't want to smash the plastic with the pump pliers. If they are pressed on I hope they fit on these other stater box motors I have.
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Old 08-23-2007, 07:40 AM   #4960
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Originally Posted by sracer View Post
Pink, I just ran there last weekend and I found that inside jobs gave me the best steering. Soft switches were pretty good also with the rear end raised just a little.
maybe i was on the wrong compounds. i ran clay switches and red tapers. i should've ran insides because the car does feel the best then but mine are pretty bald. time for a new set then
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Old 08-23-2007, 07:41 AM   #4961
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Originally Posted by tex1 View Post
Sleeve,
I have found the Losi has a couple of characteristics other cars do not have. Getting the chassis stable is the first thing. I run the same shock setup all the way around to keep the car from transfering too quickly which makes it easy to drive. My theory is this is what makes the car twitchy for some.
56 pistons with 3 holes drilled to 55. Start with 40 Wt oil all the way around.
Sound weird but my car does look different than the others on the track.
Start with the Med sway bars in both front and rear.
Set your ride height where the front is 1mm lower than the rear when it is on the table.
Limit your travel to 98mm Frt & 108mm in the rear.
Set your wheel base in the middle.
Run your shocks and camber links in the stock locations.
Use Green springs all the way around.
I run the short Ackermann place with bump stops in the top position to add steering.
5/7/2 in the diffs.

You need more tire on the Losi than you need on other cars. It is lighter.
I love M3 Bowties and Panther KD IIs MS with the out sides cut at an angle.
I have not found a place they will not work.

What do the locals say is the hot tire at your track?

Hope this helps.
TEX
<------- Not done yet!!
inside jobs
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Old 08-23-2007, 07:47 AM   #4962
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve View Post
how many of you run your 8's with a diff setup other than 5/7/2 . my 8 always feel loose and like it has no steering. i always run the local hot tire,check ride height,droop ,shocks drilled 54/40 molded 56/25 3/3 plate standard link setup everybody else runs. i don't know if the car just isn't suited for me or what. some say i overdrive it to hard and that's why it's like that. the only way i've been able to get it to feel right was the shortest link in the front and 3k in the front diff but it still pushes or feels loose. any suggestions oh and i've check all the hinge pins and the servo saver works properly with a truggy spring
It's been my experience that when a car is pushy and loose all at the same time then it's rarely a setup issue but the tires not working. If you are using the correct tire for the track and it still seems way off make sure nothing is binding in the suspension and drive train. If that's all good then go back to the setup. Really the just slight variations from the drake or truhe setups should get you really close.

Last edited by jkirkwood; 08-23-2007 at 07:48 AM. Reason: spelling correction
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:05 AM   #4963
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the clays pushed bad at medina. you need a soft compund. clay compound is the hardest they make. M3 holeshots were awesome.
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:13 AM   #4964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1 View Post
Sleeve,
I run the same shock setup all the way around to keep the car from transfering too quickly which makes it easy to drive. My theory is this is what makes the car twitchy for some.
56 pistons with 3 holes drilled to 55. Start with 40 Wt oil all the way around.
Sound weird but my car does look different than the others on the track.
You are limiting your thinking by running the same shock package front and rear. Even with the same oil and pistons in front and rear shocks, the mounitng holes and arm lengths are different, plus different weight distribution front to rear and CG heights. You might even be further off from the same shock performance by making the shocks the same than someone running 56/40 in the front and 54/25 in the rear.
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:42 AM   #4965
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Originally Posted by KForce View Post
the clays pushed bad at medina. you need a soft compund. clay compound is the hardest they make. M3 holeshots were awesome.
yes i figured that one out now. i ran like crap all day due to tire selection. i usually run a whole lot better than what i did
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