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Old 08-17-2007, 02:33 PM   #4876
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Wow, I totally missed that. I've seen the piece and was curios why it had a "zip tie" handle attachment. HAHAHA. Awesome....
I also simplified taking apart the 8 by buying the MIP power wrenches for my power drill. Just set the clutch to loosest, and when screwing the screws in, start by hand as to make sure the screw "drops" into the thread.... I still avoid tightening the screws with the power drill. Just get close.
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Old 08-17-2007, 02:37 PM   #4877
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
Haha, ya don't have them yet....Soon very soon...

I have a quick maintenance question: Is there an easy way to remove the front diff for maintenance without removing the steering assembly also? With the back it is just 10 screws plus loosening the 2 rollbar screws. I am just tired of taking the steering rack off only to have the bearings fall out or lose them. Also you have the top plate (5 screws)....I dont mind so much as the time it takes... Luckily I've never been in a bind before a race to change the diff case or diff oil...
Wow, how long have you been disassembling the whole steering rack? The front only takes 8 screws and the whole thing comes off. They designed that little spacer with the grab handle for you to stick a tool in there and yank it out. That's so the diff can come out of the rectangular hole in the chassis easier and not have to rip the steering rack top plate off.
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Old 08-17-2007, 05:10 PM   #4878
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How long? Since I got it in March, and been disassembling it every race week since then minus probably 3 weeks when I didn't race. I didnt disassemble the steering rack, just took it off. Just take off the top plate and it comes off...but still more than necessary and a little pain to juggle it back together. Usually I have no trouble finding out these nice little tricks as everything I own I have taken apart. (My real car, every computer, video game console, transmitter etc) Sometimes you miss a trick though... I almost was about to CA that little piece to the top plate also so I wouldn't lose it....

Everything else on the buggy has been a dream to maintain, though my rear diff fluid usually only lasts about a day. I run Mugen 2000. Even still, I replace all oils before every race day, and orings about every other. I don't want to be able to blame the car for a DNF or anything besides first, just my driving skills.
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Old 08-17-2007, 07:49 PM   #4879
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If you are burning up rear diff oil in one race day you might want to consider a higher wt oil as it sounds like you would be diffing out alot. However sometimes diffing out is a prefered feel on the track and totally up for the driver. I get about 2 gallons out of my diff fluids and when I top them off the grease is still clear.
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Old 08-17-2007, 08:08 PM   #4880
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Ya, my trigger finger may just be too heavy also. I went back to gas truck for a little while just to get my throttle control back. I have only tried 2000 and 3000 diff oils in the rear. I haven't changed because I know its not the vehicle that is holding me back, but my driving. Right now im usually fairly consistent lap times, BUT they are not close to the fast 2-3 guys that sometimes visit my club track. Consistency comes first, and so far my lap times are only getting faster, and I'm having a blast, which matters much more.
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Old 08-17-2007, 10:29 PM   #4881
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How much 'play' should be set for the Pinion Gear and the Drive Adapter? The set screw can be tightened Forward so that the Adapter doesn't rub against the bearing , but then the Pinion gear can move and throw off the mesh from the Ring Gear. I have smoked 2 Ring and Pinion sets. And have tried shims .
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Old 08-17-2007, 11:43 PM   #4882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
How long? Since I got it in March, and been disassembling it every race week since then minus probably 3 weeks when I didn't race. I didnt disassemble the steering rack, just took it off. Just take off the top plate and it comes off...but still more than necessary and a little pain to juggle it back together. Usually I have no trouble finding out these nice little tricks as everything I own I have taken apart. (My real car, every computer, video game console, transmitter etc) Sometimes you miss a trick though... I almost was about to CA that little piece to the top plate also so I wouldn't lose it....

Everything else on the buggy has been a dream to maintain, though my rear diff fluid usually only lasts about a day. I run Mugen 2000. Even still, I replace all oils before every race day, and orings about every other. I don't want to be able to blame the car for a DNF or anything besides first, just my driving skills.
LOL. same here. Been racing since Feb. and just figured this out 3 weeks ago cause I was thinking the exact same thing. I've only had my diffs out about 5 times in that time. I go longer and longer each time between diff oil changes. The flluid is always clear. Never been discolored once. But each time I take them out I still change oil. LOL. Still funny to see someone ask the question I figured out only recently.
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Old 08-18-2007, 10:24 AM   #4883
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does anyone know anyone who would be able to paint an 8ight buggy body and 8ight T body to match with custom paint schemes? i want it to be high quality like bodz custom are. i saw a body set on ebay for only $125 but was unable to place a bid in time. i like any style as long as it matches with yellow wheels and black or yellow wings. im willing to pay 100-150 to get them both done.
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Old 08-18-2007, 10:33 AM   #4884
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does anyone know anyone who would be able to paint an 8ight buggy body and 8ight T body to match with custom paint schemes? i want it to be high quality like bodz custom are. i saw a body set on ebay for only $125 but was unable to place a bid in time. i like any style as long as it matches with yellow wheels and black or yellow wings. im willing to pay 100-150 to get them both done.

Click on the McGoo Creative link in my sig. Marc does my bodies and they're amazing. He did these two for me. You can also go to this thread where he posts a lot of his work.

http://www.mikeshobbyshop.com/phpBB2...er=asc&start=0
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Old 08-18-2007, 10:49 AM   #4885
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www.ridgewaybodies.com
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Old 08-18-2007, 11:22 AM   #4886
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www.gsairwerx.com

Grant does some killer work. if you check out www.Davesmotors.com and look at the pic for the Baja 5B bodys, that is one of Grants Jobs. there are ALOT of them out there.

tell him Timmahh Sent ya!
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Old 08-18-2007, 04:49 PM   #4887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
There is a small spacer under between the top plate and rear of the diff case (it even has a little grab handle). Remove the spacer and you can get the diff case out without disturbing the steering assembly or even removing the top plate.
LOL, well looks like I am a rookie also as I never knew why that was there and disassembled the top plate from it also. So laugh it up

Quote:
Originally Posted by joecool View Post
does anyone know anyone who would be able to paint an 8ight buggy body and 8ight T body to match with custom paint schemes? i want it to be high quality like bodz custom are. i saw a body set on ebay for only $125 but was unable to place a bid in time. i like any style as long as it matches with yellow wheels and black or yellow wings. im willing to pay 100-150 to get them both done.
Check out www.celphdesigns.com as I had Mike do a set of R/C car bodies for me. Excelent job!!!!
check em out.
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Old 08-18-2007, 05:43 PM   #4888
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Here are a couple of 8ights we did.


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Old 08-18-2007, 09:26 PM   #4889
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Check out www.celphdesigns.com as I had Mike do a set of R/C car bodies for me. Excelent job!!!!
check em out.[/QUOTE]

Agreed, Michael does awsome work!!!
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Old 08-19-2007, 03:43 PM   #4890
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after one heck of a race weekend!!!!


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