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Old 08-13-2007, 09:15 PM   #4831
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o and yes i like the 60 over the 50 but right now i am currently loving the 086 on my speed.
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:47 PM   #4832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerspeed View Post
I like the OS 2060 myself, it is a little softer bottom end wise then the 2050. Those 2 pipe's are the only one's I've used with my Speed engine.
I picked up a 2060SC WN and the way it naturally wants to sit, it's touching the tank. The Jammin header has a similar length and fits way better. Anyone else notice this?
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:06 AM   #4833
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Originally Posted by IR13 View Post
you guys could do this to your buggy and not worry about springs and less maintence. just finished my conversion one week ago. oh and shoes i would get 4 King Head aluminum shoes i think the 7075.. they last long and have great bite
Véry véry nice your conversion !!

A little questions please :

> how many time run ?

> How price for this conversion ?

Thank you
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:29 AM   #4834
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Y'know, I would think it would be cool to use a clutch with an electric motor...just to get that "feel" If I were to do brushless conversion, I would however use a servo for breaking, so that the battery doesn't have to use as much MAH, and so one can still dial in brake bias.
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:58 PM   #4835
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That brushless conversion is awesome. Makes me wanna do a CRT.5 conversion that much more.

Has anyone used the Robinson CBs yet? I bought one and in my first race I snapped a tooth off Of course, I could have had a mesh problem, but I've run about six gallons through the car on the stock 'bell with no problems so I'm pretty sure the mesh was ok. The motor hadn't shifted or anything like that during the race.

A bunch of guys at the track were telling me the RRP 'bell was junk. And my only consolation was that the guy that sold it to me (and said they were "awesome") was standing right next to me when everyone informed me of this. So I gave him hell the rest of the day.
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Old 08-14-2007, 01:31 PM   #4836
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We just run the clutch stock, 2 carbon 2 alum shoes w/ gold and silver springs. Have had no slippage except after a messy pit stop with fuel getting in the clutch or over oiling the bearings. They have been lasting great, even in the 45 min A main last week in the Pro series north.
Is your flywheel collet slipping, I've had that happen before. The taper in the collet and flywheel is different and come loose. I made some of my own steel collets, I think the new flywheels that are wider are different.

Rex


No slipping just hits way to hard for the track I run on. I need a little less snap.
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Old 08-14-2007, 01:34 PM   #4837
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[QUOTE=IR13;3576965]you guys could do this to your buggy and not worry about springs and less maintence. just finished my conversion one week ago. oh and shoes i would get 4 King Head aluminum shoes i think the 7075.. they last long and have great bite.


all my tuning is through the laptop





That thing looks amazing!!!!! Great work!!!! There was a kid running a brushless Truggy at my track a couple of weeks ago, it was wicked fast!!!
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Old 08-14-2007, 03:33 PM   #4838
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thx gixxerman this thing just rips it lifts the front wheels on concrete with only 5000 wieght in the center
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:28 PM   #4839
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Any body run the HD wing from proline or jconcepts and do you notice any difference from the stock losi wing?
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:41 PM   #4840
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I run the black high downforce wing from proline, and the only difference is I have to put a little bit more preload in the rear shocks than with the stock wing. I thought it cleared jumps a bit more level at first, but you can fix that by adjusting your shock preload. It does help the rear end of the car stay planted while speeding down the straight away.
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:47 PM   #4841
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Thanks for info I think I will give the proline a try I did notice it sits alot lower than the stock wing.
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:50 PM   #4842
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just an FYI. Neighbor wanted to use a losi starter box he bough< not hte 8 SB, so after looking around, found that it was suggested to buy the Backplate, to remove the spin start, and the new Motor mounts.
got the motor mounts today only. installed them and everything works fine without the backplate, still have the spin starter plate installed.

so Why is the non spinstart back plate needed?
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:41 PM   #4843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmahh View Post
just an FYI. Neighbor wanted to use a losi starter box he bough< not hte 8 SB, so after looking around, found that it was suggested to buy the Backplate, to remove the spin start, and the new Motor mounts.
got the motor mounts today only. installed them and everything works fine without the backplate, still have the spin starter plate installed.

so Why is the non spinstart back plate needed?
Eliminates the air leak.
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Old 08-15-2007, 09:29 PM   #4844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmahh View Post
just an FYI. Neighbor wanted to use a losi starter box he bough< not hte 8 SB, so after looking around, found that it was suggested to buy the Backplate, to remove the spin start, and the new Motor mounts.
got the motor mounts today only. installed them and everything works fine without the backplate, still have the spin starter plate installed.

so Why is the non spinstart back plate needed?
That's good to hear. I hope it works for him. Take the side mud guard off and check the rear of the engine mounts to make sure they are sitting flush with the chassis. If not this could cause fast clutch bearing wear, tooth wear on the CB and spur. Just FYI. But if all is ok then he's good to go with two ways to start it.
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:46 AM   #4845
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new lid for the ohio finals.

body wrap by Panther Motorsports Designs

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