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Old 07-23-2007, 03:35 PM   #4591
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How long will the plastic inserts live? Are they more like teflon and soft? Or durable hard plastic?
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Old 07-23-2007, 04:03 PM   #4592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr View Post
There was a guy pitting behind me at Revelation Saturday with an 8ight. It looked like he had every Fioroni aftermarket part on that thing. Especially the black shock towers with the silver edging. Not sure they're all really needed, but it looked damn good.
Ha! Nope its not needed at all! Shoot, the pros still use the 8 essentially box stock! The only options I have on mine are the aluminum bearing inserts for the rear diff and the KHZ quick change motor mount. Im trying to decide on the Qoncepts Center diff mount now also...just to save time.
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Old 07-23-2007, 05:35 PM   #4593
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Default Need a connecting Rod

Any Hobby shop Employee's have any Ninja .21 Con-Rods?????
Every shop on the web is out of stock, help a dude out....
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Old 07-23-2007, 10:07 PM   #4594
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im having a problem trying to get my new werks clutch to fit on my v-spec...the flywheel doesnt want to stay tight enough for me to tighten down the silver sleeve.

any advise?
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Old 07-24-2007, 02:41 AM   #4595
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Originally Posted by J.Wright View Post
Tex
I know nothing about 1/8 scale buggies and less about truggys what kind'a power plant would you recommend for a novice truggy racer?

Jim
Sportworks .26 V2 @ $140 with a back plate. Other engines will work but the power on the bottom is where they need to shine in a Truggy. It will make the truck easier to drive and get a good tune.
We actually race this motor (modded) and it runs gallon after gallon giving up nothing in horsepower.
Awesome bang for the buck.
TEX
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Old 07-24-2007, 02:46 AM   #4596
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Hi All,

Just had my first weekend with the 8ight b Was pretty good too. I did have a couple of problems though, in the rough stuff the rear seems to be bottoming out and bouncing up, it also has a tendancy to roll over in the corners if i hit any sort of bump or rut.

I started out with a box set-up(barring tires, as i'm racing on grass in the UK angle spikes are far better) and ended up with the front shocks mounted outer most top and bottom and the rear out on the bottom and middle top.

I was thinking of changing pistons guessing that 55 + 54 RE SMALLER THAN THE STD. 56'S so maybe 54 front and 55 rear ??

also can anyone list the springs for me hard to soft as i have no idea on losi springs. As i was also going to change front and rear for harder ones.

You think im going in the right direction guys ??

Cheers

Rod
I had this problem with the rear of my car. I'm running the small pistons (56 holes) with three of the holes drilled to 55. I run 37.5 & 40 wt. in the rear #2on top and inside on bottom w/ green springs. Actually I run the same thing in the front as well. It is not as agressive as some guys cars but it is smooth for me. I think it is way too soft with the stock setup.
TEX
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Old 07-24-2007, 02:51 AM   #4597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draggindrew View Post
im having a problem trying to get my new werks clutch to fit on my v-spec...the flywheel doesnt want to stay tight enough for me to tighten down the silver sleeve.

any advise?
Are you using the correct taper collet? It should be a smaller collet than the one that came with your motor. Also ensure you can thread the nut all the way down on your shaft before you put the flywheel on. I have found some of these need a little attention before assy.
Hope this helps.
TEX
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Old 07-24-2007, 07:42 AM   #4598
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Quote:
Sportworks .26 V2 @ $140 with a back plate. Other engines will work but the power on the bottom is where they need to shine in a Truggy. It will make the truck easier to drive and get a good tune.
We actually race this motor (modded) and it runs gallon after gallon giving up nothing in horsepower.
Awesome bang for the buck.
TEX
Thanks.

Jim
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:59 AM   #4599
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You guy's see the Race Roller 8b yet?? I just saw it @ neo-buggy. What's this hobby coming too??? Isn't building it the fun part?
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:14 AM   #4600
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I'm more interested in the new buggy tires that are on the race roller
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:17 AM   #4601
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yes, i was just about to post the same thing!!
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:20 AM   #4602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Howard View Post
I'm more interested in the new buggy tires that are on the race roller
Yeah, saw that.... Those tires make a very amusing (and very distinct and audible) WHIRRRRR at our track on the truggies.

meanwhile, as a painter, I'm moderately insulted that the body comes with graphics and I seriously hope they aren't pre applied... All the buggies will look the same, with different base colors. How pleasent.
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Old 07-26-2007, 08:58 PM   #4603
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Gas racing is hot right now. The way to sell alot of kits is to have them prebiult so everyone can try some racing. Not to mention the hop up parts, since everyone wants to win and do well so bad, they will fly hop ups off the shelves as fast as they can make them.

Us hardcore racers will complain about prebiult stuff, but still buy it up, strip it down, modify it, improve it and race it. When the next new one comes out, we all do it over again, LOL.







...Jim
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Old 07-26-2007, 09:08 PM   #4604
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i have a problem that with my carb sticking at some points in the travel of the throttle servo. is there any way to make the carb valve slide more easily. i have tried to rotate the ball link to make it more direct moving but it has not helped. its weird because i switched from a blue head vzb to the new os speed engine. nothing should have changed in my end points or linkages but something is feeling a little tight for my likings. could the new carb just need time to break in?
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Old 07-26-2007, 09:25 PM   #4605
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On a couple of engines my carb would hang open about half throttle. These cars are still tooooooo fast at half throttle to catch. lol. I took the barrels out of the carbs and tried to do a little polishing. Seemed to help. but the carb still hangs up on a couple of my engines. Mostly after pulling full throttle to clear the large triples, the engines stays revved up until you apply the brakes to close it. Well after doing that the nose goes straight down. CRASH. I've just thought it was the carbs getting bound up.
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