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Old 07-06-2007, 11:08 PM   #4366
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All I got out of my VG was a un-tunable pile that would flame out on every extended run and get about 6-7 minutes/tank at best. Ran awesome for 5 minute quals, but haven't finished a main with it yet.

Oh well, my new Novarossi 3 port will run 8 and 1/2 minutes tuned a little rich and is a much smoother engine.
I've had both the Rex and the Top 3 port, and though they make a little better top end, the VG gets better economy and seems to have better bottom end. All three motors on a JP-2 in my 8ight. Originally I bought the VG as a back up, but after it broke in and tuned real easy, then starts and warms up quicker, I decided to keep it in the car...now the Rex is the back up...

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As much as my VG has torqued me off, I've wanted to skip it across the concrete or beat it to death with a sledge hammer

However, with all the good luck everyone else has had with theirs, I'm going to tear it down, seal everything up really tight and try it out in a different car around the end of August I figure I'll reset the needles and try a different plug (either the R-5 or another brand in place of the #8) and hope for better luck then.

It always seems to be after about 8-9 minutes I have problems (and yes it's after it's been refueled). Would an air leak issue affect it then or would it more likely be a tuning/glow plug issue? It's always temped under 255, but that was with a DuraTrax gun...I don't know if I trust it completely, so I bought a O'Donnel to go with the Novarossi after watching it temp consistent with my buddies $250 gun.
Yesterday 09:35 PM
The VG is a great motor, give it a lil TLC and you should be able to get some good performance out of it. I wouldn't suggest it for a large or even a medium track, but it does very well on our tight technical track. I don't seem to get passed down the straight section either...
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Old 07-07-2007, 05:49 PM   #4367
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hey guys.

i just made a huge purchase at amain and bmain hobbies. i ordered myself an 8ight Truggy and literally every aluminum or titanium piece you can get for it, some carbon pieces too. as soon as I get it i am going to strip the stock plastic stuff and start upgrading it. is anyone running the truggy on short tight tracks? how is the set up out of the box? what adjustments should i make right away?
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Old 07-08-2007, 11:53 AM   #4368
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Just run the eight T just the way it comes out of the box! We haven' made any changes other than different tires.

Rex
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Old 07-09-2007, 08:48 AM   #4369
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Originally Posted by joecool View Post
hey guys.

i just made a huge purchase at amain and bmain hobbies. i ordered myself an 8ight Truggy and literally every aluminum or titanium piece you can get for it, some carbon pieces too. as soon as I get it i am going to strip the stock plastic stuff and start upgrading it. is anyone running the truggy on short tight tracks? how is the set up out of the box? what adjustments should i make right away?
Run it mostly stock wiyh radio tray stiffener and chassis braces, thats all you really need. What else did you get for it? I usually drive it stock then start trying hop-ups 1 at a time because if you just go and throw all that extra stuff and it drives like hell then you are gonna have a puzzle to work with. But good luck and have fun.
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:05 AM   #4370
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While racing yesterday I noticed a strange ratcheting noise that sounded like gears skipping over teeth. The clutch bell was a bit worn and the teeth were a bit sharp but not rolled over so I ruled that out. Gear mesh was on the far side of acceptable but not too loose.

The rear diff however was worn and the teeth were rounded over so I replaced them. However, I still have the problem. I have yet to do a total tear down but I'm stumped. Could this be caused by the plastic rear diff inserts and solved with those aluminum ones?
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:30 AM   #4371
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Check those and also check the gear case for cracks. It is probably that the bearing inserts are worn out.
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:50 AM   #4372
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I recommend that if you strip those gears you should replace the inserts AND the housing that they fit into.
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:53 AM   #4373
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Check your center diff front bearing to make sure it's not bad, the insert isn't bad, and also there isn't a loose fit for any of those parts with one anther or the fit into the center diff upright part.
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Old 07-09-2007, 10:51 AM   #4374
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Originally Posted by satoch View Post
While racing yesterday I noticed a strange ratcheting noise that sounded like gears skipping over teeth. The clutch bell was a bit worn and the teeth were a bit sharp but not rolled over so I ruled that out. Gear mesh was on the far side of acceptable but not too loose.

The rear diff however was worn and the teeth were rounded over so I replaced them. However, I still have the problem. I have yet to do a total tear down but I'm stumped. Could this be caused by the plastic rear diff inserts and solved with those aluminum ones?
this is what mine sounded like the other week, anyway after changing bearings, checking diffs, worrying that i'd done my engine ini notice my centre diff spur gear had a slight chip in one of the teeth and some others were worn. swopped the gear for a new one and its fine again now, didnt look bad enough to be the problem but it was.

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Old 07-09-2007, 11:57 AM   #4375
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ok here is all the stuff i ordered

8ight t
king heads 7075 shoes
front and rear chassis braces
aluminum front top brace
aluminum servo top
aluminum servo horn
aluminum rear bearin inserts
center bearing insert aluminum
lunsford titanium hing pin turnbuckle kit
lunsford titanium kin pin
lunsford shock standoff
gmk cvd condoms
dace rear skid plate
m2c rear hinge plate and front plate
carbon mud gaurds
carbon disc rotors

i need to know what the best steering servo to use is for this truggy. i have a ko propo 2368. specs are .15 with 186 oz in. i was thinking of waiting to get a jr z9000t. any other suggestions or should i use what i have?
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Old 07-09-2007, 11:57 AM   #4376
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joecool - I would argue that there is really no reason for hop-ups on the 8IGHT-T (and the buggy as well). The kit includes the parts it does for a reason.

A radio tray brace serves no function, and the chassis braces will make the truck stiffer, which can result in a truck that's harder to drive. My truggy stands as it came out of the box, with a different clutch setup.

Of those parts, I would run the aluminum servo saver top, the servo horn, the rear bearing inserts, the center bearing insert, turnbuckle and king pin kits, shock standoffs, and the mudguards. The CVD condoms and the M2C pivot blocks are optional.

My 8IGHT-T stands as it came out of the box, with a different clutch setup. That's literally all I've changed.
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Old 07-09-2007, 01:01 PM   #4377
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Aaron, how often do you change your arms, even though they might not be broken?

I only ask because the whole front end of my 8ight is creaking like a wood floor and it's all in the movement of the arms.
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Old 07-09-2007, 01:23 PM   #4378
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To be honest? Hardly ever, haha.

Make sure you store your buggy on a set of tires or a box or something to lift the tires off the ground, and that will stop the arms from warping. Other than that, the arms will last a long time. You have to put some serious effort into breaking one!

Suspension squeak is often from dirt in the hinge pins. Take the pins out, clean them, use a pipe cleaner in the holes in the arm and the pivot blocks, and the squeak should go away.
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Old 07-09-2007, 01:49 PM   #4379
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I've swapped all four arms once just to eliminate a tuning issue I had. I thought the hinge pin holes were a little egged out. But I noticed no difference with the new arms. But at least I have a set of spares now. Aaron's right, those arms are seriously tough.
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Old 07-09-2007, 06:29 PM   #4380
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Need some advice on the 8ights shock spring retainers. At least one comes off everytime I race. They don't seem to be damaged or out of shape at all but they are older. I saw Fioroni has the aluminum ones but $46 for 4? would it make a difference?
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