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Old 10-14-2006, 10:50 PM   #376
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ckc, I believe the black shoes are actually plastic since Drake referred to them as plastic.

ghost, sounds like you need to finish the build and break that beast in!

I ran mine today for the first time and by the end of the day, the car was absolutely dialed. The rear end was planted like a root and steered like no other off-road car i've driven! The way it handles the rough is unreal...i'm like wow...i'm not on my lid! I can't say anything negative about the car...its only going to get better!
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Old 10-15-2006, 01:42 AM   #377
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My clutch setup:
13T CB(scuffed with scotch brite), Losi Shoes, Gold on Aluminum, Black on plastic.

Here is my clutch wear after practice, three 5 min qualifiers and a 15min main...



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Old 10-15-2006, 08:46 AM   #378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckcmotorsports
What's up guys.......dumb question here....why is everyone calling the losi composite clutch shoes "carbon"? I dont think there is anything carbon about them????? Am I wrong??? If they were carbon we wouldn't need aluminum.
Most shoes refered to as carbon are nylon or delrin (nylon with high teflon content) mixed with a significant amount of carbon fiber to increase it's friction qualities and durability. It is carbon the same way that molded graphite parts are graphite. Plastic with carbon in them.
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Old 10-15-2006, 08:51 AM   #379
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Just to double-check here, I built my clutch stock (silver springs for aluminum shoes, gold for plastic.) Am I to understand that this is too stiff a setup with the 14T clutch bell? I have yet to run the car, still in the building phase... Figured it would be safer to ask.
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Old 10-15-2006, 08:57 AM   #380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgewaybodies
My clutch setup:
13T CB(scuffed with scotch brite), Losi Shoes, Gold on Aluminum, Black on plastic.

Here is my clutch wear after practice, three 5 min qualifiers and a 15min main...
Not bad!

Last edited by FlyByWire; 10-15-2006 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:20 AM   #381
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Captain.....I'd start with black on the plastic shoes and gold spring on the metal shoes. If it's "wrong" then your car will just bog a little, where if you start too stiff you may mess up the clutch from it's slippage.
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Old 10-15-2006, 11:42 PM   #382
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Has the alum braces come out yet I seen them somewhere but can't remember where.
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Old 10-16-2006, 11:33 AM   #383
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Raced the buggy this past weekend for the first time... It definately drives different than my Jammin FTE. To a point you can not or should not drive the 8ight hard like you would drive the FTE. This is just my .02 cents. I probably should have put more time on the buggy before racing at this year Mugen Seiki challenge because every heat my lap times improved as I got the feel for the buggy. Would have really like to race the 45 minute A-main but we got rained out , fairly sure I would have done better with it over my Jammin if I had more seat time with the 8ight.

Also wanted to share that I used the green and black springs with the stock clutch setup, my clutch didn't show hardly any use whatsoever. The gold and silver springs are just to strong for the stock carbon and alum shoes.

Also moved the rear shocks on the top to the outer most hole to gain more traction in the rear. Diff setups were 5K, 7k, 3K. The more I drive this buggy the more I begin to notice how good it is! Can't wait till the 8ight Truggy comes out.

Here are some pics of my 8ight all cleaned up after the race this weekend.
Anyone need their 8ight body painted up? Don't forget to ask, or check out www.GSAIRWERX.com. Still working on the website and pricing. But I do know my prices will be FAR cheaper than anyone else.







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Old 10-16-2006, 11:58 AM   #384
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I was testing the servos on mine a little earlier. Does anyone else seem concerned with the noticeable amount of flex in the servo tray? It's quite prominent when I actuate the throttle... Is this normal/acceptable, or is there cause for concern?
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Old 10-16-2006, 01:06 PM   #385
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Reduce your EPA, that means it's going too far, unless your carb is really tough to move...
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Old 10-16-2006, 02:34 PM   #386
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Hi R40. You were absolutely right, my throttle servo was over-travelling; the EPA fixed that nicely, thanks
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:04 PM   #387
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Make sure you adjust the EPA on your steering servo as well.
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:12 PM   #388
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Yup, I did both servos, since I noticed that there was a tad more steering to one side, even with the servo set to dead-center. I reckon it's something to do with the ackerman, so I brought the EPA down on one side and now it steers evenly for left and right.
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Old 10-16-2006, 06:58 PM   #389
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Something I noticed....

The car is weight biased to the radio side. It is not a little bit. It is a lot. I added weight to the splash guard under the pipe to off-set it. I have since ordered a LiPo RX batt to shed the weight.
The car jumped real weird the first time I tried it. I put two centered holes under the chassis and put the car on balance pins to confirm it.
Does anyone know where I can pick up some Aluminum 5-40 screws? I have 4-40s and 8-32s to fix the radio tray up. Associated has them for anyone interested.

I'm very impressed with how this car drives. It is hands down the best car I have ever driven. I am just looking for that last little bit to get me by.
The consistancy is the thing I notice most. You simply don't have to drive the car perfect. Not so much when you are all alone, but when you are in traffic it makes a big difference.

Good stuff,
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Old 10-16-2006, 07:14 PM   #390
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I think the car jumps awesome. Maybe not super smooth and level but you can slam on the brakes to save a dead sailor, and I can whip the car with the best of 'em, which helps to scrub speed and stay low. Plus...it looks really cool.

Check your local hardware store or bolt company for aluminum or stainless streel screws but don't use them in high-stress areas.
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