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Old 10-12-2006, 04:09 AM   #331
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JBracing, I'm the stupid one .... I did'nt even know that there were different ones!... I don't even know which ones on my car!... I always just call my freind at the hobby shop and say send this or that then I get it and rip it open and put it on the car and don't even pay much attention!.. I'll call him today and see which one he sent me since I already threw away the package........
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Old 10-12-2006, 05:07 AM   #332
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Chuck- Nice paint on your 8ight, that thing looks crazy.
How did you line up your chrome top ofna box? Do you have any picks, im having a hard time for some reason. It may be because the wheel is a pretty large diameter. Let me know thanks.

Also have you changed to the optional springs that came in the bag with the wheel nuts? Ive seen people run the springs that came in the clutch bag and its just set to engage to high. Let me know thanks.
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Old 10-12-2006, 06:03 AM   #333
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Wink Standard Flywheels.......

I run a standard fly wheel 3 shoe setup on mine. Just use the big bearing on the rear and a standard bearing on the front with the Losi Clutch bell. I never used the Kyosho stuff. So I would guess the Mugen/Xray stuff would work well.
My stock shoes were almost gone after a mild motor break-in. This is why I switched.
The car still pulls real hard with the standard carbon shoes with 1.0 springs coupled to the 14T clutch bell.
Some guys around here even run smaller motors (less than .21s) and have no problems.
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Old 10-12-2006, 06:56 AM   #334
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Pinnacle003:

The kit falls together. In 4.5-5 hours I had it totally built except for the electronics and engine in it. Considering the last 1/8th I built I worked for almost a week on it correcting and improving parts fit this build was a breath of fresh air. The qualify is great.

Best starter box I've seen people use is the Mugen box for 1/8th scales. It seems to work just great with only a small hole to be drilled for the left front mount. I plan on getting one in a few weeks. The Torque Stater box I have from dynamite works but I had to sand the wheel down, and drill custom holes for each of the peg mounts. It was a pain.

The kit tires should work great in laomy and/or soft conditions. If your track is using something like crimefighters I'd give them a try. I typically race on hard packed surfaces so they wouldn't be as good.

The stock clutch is great, you should give it a try. By using the softer springs that are included in the kit and cleaning it properly before you run it, the clutch will give longer life. However, I do know for a fact the flywheel from the CEN Matrix works fine with spending some time spacing it correctly. I had a friend put that on his car this weekend.
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Old 10-12-2006, 10:14 AM   #335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Miskolczi
Chuck- Nice paint on your 8ight, that thing looks crazy.
How did you line up your chrome top ofna box? Do you have any picks, im having a hard time for some reason. It may be because the wheel is a pretty large diameter. Let me know thanks.

Also have you changed to the optional springs that came in the bag with the wheel nuts? Ive seen people run the springs that came in the clutch bag and its just set to engage to high. Let me know thanks.
I'm using the chrome top as well. Losi has a great picture of the chassis on a chrome top, see attachment. Use the inner slots on the right and the outer slots on the left, leave them loose and then line up the wheel with the flywheel openning and slide the pegs so they touch the front and rear of the chassis then tighten them down.
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:05 AM   #336
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There's no reason that any starter box shouldn't be able to start the 8IGHT.

I'm using one of the big blue OFNA boxes (it now comes with a chrome top, but mine is several years old). As long as you can get the chassis lined up, any box is capable of starting the car. My dad took a file to the wheel on our box (just push down on the box to spin the wheel and fil away!) to make the wheel a little more narrow. It works great now.

pinnacle003 - If you (or anyone else) buys a Losi car, you can e-mail me 24/7 (and I'll answer unless I'm at a race, haha) with any questions, comments, or suggestions you may have for the car, without any worry of posting them in a public forum. The crew here at RCTech does a great job of answering questions with good answers, but sometimes it's nice to get answers elsewhere.
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:13 AM   #337
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Brian,
To get the Chrome top to work, you have to perfectly center the flywheel opening up with the wheel. Center the roller without the engine installed, that way you can look down and line up the starter wheel. Take the 4 plastic starter pins and put them at each corner of the chassis. Two of them will bolt in the factory slot. The other 2, you will need to drill a hole. With the box off, slowly push down on the box to make sure everything lines up. Do a test push on the starter box to see if everything lines up. Instead of pushing down on the chassis, I pushed down on the starter box lid so nothing moved. If everything is OK, slowly remove your chassis and mark the holes you need to drill with a marker. The car is offset on the box so much that the tires almost come in contact with the starter box top. I'll get a picture up sometime today. The main thing, just need to line the chassis up perfectly.
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:34 AM   #338
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Hope this helps...




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Old 10-12-2006, 12:00 PM   #339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Miskolczi
Chuck- Nice paint on your 8ight, that thing looks crazy.
How did you line up your chrome top ofna box? Do you have any picks, im having a hard time for some reason. It may be because the wheel is a pretty large diameter. Let me know thanks.

Also have you changed to the optional springs that came in the bag with the wheel nuts? Ive seen people run the springs that came in the clutch bag and its just set to engage to high. Let me know thanks.
And on the springs, i'm using gold on the aluminum and black on the carbon. I'm trying to get my hands on a 13t clutch bell before the weekend to try everything out. I got a bunch of clutch stuff on the way and won't be here till next week.
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Old 10-12-2006, 01:21 PM   #340
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Chuck- You the man, Thanks very much for the info, and the great pics.
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Old 10-12-2006, 02:45 PM   #341
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THANX GUYS, NO WONDER THIS SITE KICKS A$$!!!! lol thanx again
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Old 10-12-2006, 10:47 PM   #342
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Can someone tell me since the 8ight is regeared and comes with a 14cb will going with a 13cb be like going with a 12cb on any other buggy.
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:05 PM   #343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost06
Can someone tell me since the 8ight is regeared and comes with a 14cb will going with a 13cb be like going with a 12cb on any other buggy.
running a 13 CB will be the same like other buggies. Just the "free" drivetrain on the 8ight and light weight of the buggy allows the 14 CB to almost feal like it has 13CB punch....
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Old 10-13-2006, 05:53 AM   #344
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Read a few pages back and the gearing is discussed at length. A 13t is a little lower a gear in the 8ight than most other buggies. It (8) comes with a 48t spur gear. I felt that the 14t was perfect in my car.


The J-Concepts body for the 8ight is available now. It looks very good. Jconcepts.net
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Old 10-13-2006, 09:05 AM   #345
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So it wouldn't over rev or top out with a werks .21b7 some about not reading the other pages but I just brought the car last min to try it out and drake wouldn't give any info.
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