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Old 04-29-2007, 09:30 PM   #3196
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dont misunderstand... I compliment the clutch design, i just think the button head screws need to be revised.....
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Old 04-29-2007, 09:36 PM   #3197
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No, I understand. After lok-tite and tightining down I have needed to cut slots in them just too remove them.
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Old 04-29-2007, 10:36 PM   #3198
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GTB -
I work with T&T Hobby in Plano, Tx.

Nice shop with lots of know how in most all areas of racing. I have been around Joe for more than 20 years. This guy was racing 1/8 onroad World caliber since the mid - 70s. I race every week with him now in 1/8th off road.

Fun stuff!

Carl -
Shocks need revising to make them less maint.
Steering servo horn.
Batt box should be bigger.
Better rear outer hinge pins.
Wish I could go to half degree toe measurements w/ different rear uprights.
Fly wheel needs larger surface for starting boxes.
Split center diff mount. Although they have it very tight now...??

This is not a rant. I do love this car! Just seems like I have to run maxed on my settings to get the car right. Who knows what would happen if there were more adjustment available?

Front caster adjustment.
More fine rear toe adjustment.
Refined radio tray with enclosed servo on the throttle.

But hey, that is what R&D is for.

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Old 04-29-2007, 11:46 PM   #3199
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If you guys are interested....when I install the clutch pin/screws I use one dab of blue locktite, then only tighten them untill they stop with very little force. just a tiny bit more than hand tight. then you can get then back off with out stripping the heads.
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Old 04-29-2007, 11:47 PM   #3200
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I too would love to see a 2 peice center diff mount.
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Old 04-30-2007, 12:27 AM   #3201
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I have a feeling there's going to be a revised car soon.
i know we were the ultimite test subjects and up to date revision's should follow.
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:31 AM   #3202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyP
If you guys are interested....when I install the clutch pin/screws I use one dab of blue locktite, then only tighten them untill they stop with very little force. just a tiny bit more than hand tight. then you can get then back off with out stripping the heads.
This is similar to how I do it and do not have a problem with stripping the hexes on the pins. I use a dab of blue locktite and just screw it down to flush with the clutchbell. DO NOT TORQUE. This way they come out easily and the locktite keeps them from backing out. Works great.
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:24 AM   #3203
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Well I had the problem with my flywheel and couldnt get them off for the life of me. We tried to dremel a flathead to get them out. I had to go to LHS and they even tried everything but nothing worked. Obviously they didnt have another flywheel and everywhere is backordered so I was left with the option of not running or buying a Mugen Clutch on a OS .21 RG. So I got the Mugen clutch and put it all together and when I went to line it up on the chassis it wouldnt line up for the hell of me, we used everything and finally got it but the screw holding the clutch was right up against the fuel tank so I didnt want to take the chance of damaging anything with the 8ight flexing and all so I took it off. Oh, I tried each of the 8ight, mugen, and Ofna clutchbells.

So basically I need somebody to please help me make a mugen clutch work a OS .21 RG?

Last edited by trebor; 04-30-2007 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:48 AM   #3204
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Ummmm, I'm using the Mugen clutch right now & it fits fine. Last week I used it with a Losi clutch bell & this weekend I used it with a clutch bell from Robinson racing. Both worked fine on a C6.
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:56 AM   #3205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBMike
Ummmm, I'm using the Mugen clutch right now & it fits fine. Last week I used it with a Losi clutch bell & this weekend I used it with a clutch bell from Robinson racing. Both worked fine on a C6.
ummmmm, well why dont you give me a little clue in how you did it? I am trying to use it with a OS .21 RG.
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:58 AM   #3206
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I am using a Mugen clutch with a Werks engine and a Losi bell. Mine works with little fuss but I could see the need to put a shim behind the collet to space the flywheel farther forward. The Losi specific bell is key, it reaches farther off the front of the engine. It sounds like you may have pushed the engine forward to get a Mugen bell to reach?
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:38 AM   #3207
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Ummm,
1) I put the Mugen collet, flywheel & clutch on the motor.
2) I put the clutch bell on the clutch.
3) I put the motor in the car.
4) I ran the car.

That's my tricky secret.


Seriously: I used no tricks. I just put it in and it's fine. The only roblem I had was my C6 blew a bunch of teeth off the Losi CB so I got a Robinson Racing CB. I have to say the Robinson racing bell is way beefier than the Losi one.
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:55 AM   #3208
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So, you used the Losi clutch bell, and NOT the Mugen clutch bell, right? Is that the problem, you have to use a Losi clutch bell?
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:06 AM   #3209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R40Victim
So, you used the Losi clutch bell, and NOT the Mugen clutch bell, right? Is that the problem, you have to use a Losi clutch bell?
Yeah I ran the Jammin flywheel setup on mine. All I had to do was put 2 washers behind the flywheel collet and you also have to use the Losi clutch bell.
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:32 AM   #3210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sport10
This is similar to how I do it and do not have a problem with stripping the hexes on the pins. I use a dab of blue locktite and just screw it down to flush with the clutchbell. DO NOT TORQUE. This way they come out easily and the locktite keeps them from backing out. Works great.
Also, taper the pins by just barely by sanding the edge and rotating the pin, this helps the pin slide into the bottom of the flywheel while the pressure of the spring is there.
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