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Old 03-27-2007, 09:06 AM   #2656
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im pretty shure that was a pre production car... look at the black turnbuckles and all of the different hardware used on other parts of the car.
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:16 AM   #2657
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This from drake from Neo-buggy.com

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Hi, and Happy New Year!

What exactly is the problem with the Losi throttle-servo? Does the case break or does the electronics die?

What causes this to happen?

Oh yeah, Adam - SUPERB driving at Neo, Congrats again


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toykickass- I don't have any control over the site. I have two people who usually look over it for me, but they are out of town for the Holidays. Hopefully we will be doing something new in 2007 for thedrake.net

vikingen- The only thing you can really do is replace the o-rings and use green slime from AE. We are changing the materail of the o-ring. It will be a running change with the same part number. I believe the o-rings will be white.

Ronny- I feel that it all comes down to heat. You need to make sure you shorten the ballcup on the throttle arm and or the brake override spring. Thanks!

Jarred- Thanks! I haven't driven a GT2. What do you think the main differences are between the two? Gas truck is all about being smooth and consistent. In long mains you really need to save the truck and tires.
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:23 AM   #2658
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Hi Adam I have a real quick question for you that I know you must have been ask a million times before. Well here is my question.
I have the losi 8ight buggy and I had a nother throttle servo go out on me, it is my 5th one. This is what I did so far to see if I could fix the problems, I cut the ball cup, put kingheadz radio tray stiffiner on, alluminum chassis braces, set the epa correct for sure, I had somebody that has been racing for 14 years help so he knew what he was doing, He also run's the 8ight buggy. Ok I have been running cheap servos like z590- z270's just so if they blow I would not be out a lot of money. So my question is do you think those servos I am using are to weak for my throttle and it is just putting to much stress on the servo. So what I am thinking maybe I should put like a high torque servo in there like the airtronics blue or the jr9000t. So my questions is what do you think I should do becasue I am sick of burning up servos, and sick of worring about the throttle servo going out when ever I go out to race. So if you could help me out I would really appriciate it alot. Thank you very much.



AdamDrake

BuggyRaycer- I don't run any of the alum aftermarket parts on the 8ight or 8ight T. The spindles and carriers have more steering throw, and the vertical ballstud for more tuning options. The alum chassis brace will be good on smooth high bite tracks. If I was going to put any of the option parts on my 8ight and 8ight T it would first be the rear bearing inserts.

joshua- Cutting the bal[lcup and spring are a good thing, but I think running the servo brace is very bad. Make sure everything with the linkage is very straight and free. Also try running two 1/10th shock o-rings under the back screw of the radio tray. Run the screw loose. The 270 and 590's are weak. If you are looking for a cheap replacement try the Airtronics 94102Z. I run the Airtronics 94360's for both steering and throttle.

Antonio- The new o-rings should be in stores very soon. They are the same part number, but it was a running change. The new o-rings are white.

meddac73- I run a lipo battery from HT Batteries in my 8ight T and needed to add 1oz. to make the 9lbs. weight limit for ROAR racing. I just drilled a new hole in the chassis and screw the weight down with a 5-40 screw and nut. With a std. 1400mah battery the truck should be right at the min. weight limit without the extra weight.
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:38 AM   #2659
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scr_achy, Excellent write-up & photos. The only thing I did not like was the angle of your carb. On my car I rotated the cab until the slide boot was almost hitting the diff mount. I then rotated the carbs ball link to a higher position than yours making my linkage pull the slide in more of a straight line. I will take a pic tonight when I get off work to make this more clear. Again, great write-up.
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:15 AM   #2660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBMike
scr_achy, Excellent write-up & photos. The only thing I did not like was the angle of your carb. On my car I rotated the cab until the slide boot was almost hitting the diff mount. I then rotated the carbs ball link to a higher position than yours making my linkage pull the slide in more of a straight line. I will take a pic tonight when I get off work to make this more clear. Again, great write-up.
Not my write or photos. Thats a quote from SupermaxxRich over at UE. I know he posted in earlier in this thread as well, but it was easier to find at UE lol.

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Old 03-27-2007, 10:49 AM   #2661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBMike
scr_achy, Excellent write-up & photos. The only thing I did not like was the angle of your carb. On my car I rotated the cab until the slide boot was almost hitting the diff mount. I then rotated the carbs ball link to a higher position than yours making my linkage pull the slide in more of a straight line. I will take a pic tonight when I get off work to make this more clear. Again, great write-up.
after those pictures were taken I actually straightened out my carb more. I ground about another.5mm off the centre top plate and moved the carb closer by about 1.5-2mm
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Old 03-27-2007, 11:21 AM   #2662
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OK, then Excellent write-up SupermaxxRich.
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:30 PM   #2663
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The cheaper JR servos are weak, as adam said. I've blown a 590 in the throttle on my gas truck before. I run a 4800s for throttle and have had no problems so far. I am running a throttle return oring on my carb and haven't seen or heard of too many people stating the use of them here. That way you can run a softer throttle return spring or even much shorter one...

I've seen a few throttle servo cases chipped or scratched on the top where the throttle side of the horn would sweep through. You need to make sure that your links are flat or level and also have plenty of clearance. And at neutral you shouldn't hear any buzzing from the servo at all. Other than that I follow Supermaxx Riches guidlines...
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:48 PM   #2664
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i just spent a good part of tonight redoing my whole set up and i know one thing that i did that i totally missed was putting the servo spacers on. the ones that raise the servo. so i added those and put a different spring on it and checked everything and things seam right. so im hoping it all works.
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Old 03-27-2007, 11:48 PM   #2665
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I don't know if this has been said before.

If you are using a spektrum or some other type of failsafe don't use full break for your throttle failsafe position. I use neutral and an oring around the carb. If you turn off your radio and not your car your failsafe is going to put the breaks on.

If you adjust your idle screw check your servo setting again. It might have moved enough to put pressure on the servo.

Are you listening to your servo in a quite place?

I've got 5 gallons on my futaba digital servo and no problems. No orings under the battery, no aftermarket braces, just cut the spring and ballcup.
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Old 03-28-2007, 06:23 AM   #2666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorman007
Tex Dibs here.
How do you like the buggy?

Really thinking about trying this buggy. I seen you did really good 2 or 3 weekend back. nice going.

Ok to the point

The motor i'm going to use is the Werks TLB7 motor.

Ko Propo servo's pds-??68

Servo



With this card to set the load of the servo to power down if the load is to high after 3 or 5 sec. once the load is gone it powers back up asap.

ICS card
Dibs,
I can honestly say it is the best 1/8th scale I have driven. I have seen some issues with the stuff that I have been doing but the car is bullet proof. They usually do not like a lot of motor so beware. It is light and is geared low so you are going to need to work with your clutch and pipe to get it right.
Watch your linkage and there are a couple of more areas. No prob. Let me know if you want to go this route and I'll drop you a PM. I just wish I could drive better.

TEX
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Old 03-28-2007, 07:43 AM   #2667
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Default clutch spring ?

Hey guys I have a question about clutch springs and how and when you know you have to go to a stiffiner or thinner clutch spring to engage at a lower or higher rpm.

1- So one of my questions about clutch spring is exackley what does it mean to engage at a lower or higher rpm like what does that mean.

2-What signs would I see when I know I have to change my clutch spring if I need more of a lowend punch or how ever you would explain more lowend.

3-I am running 4 aluminum clutch shoes with 4 silver spring. ? is my clutch engaging at lower rpms or higher rpms with that setup.

4-If I am running 2 composite shoes with silver springs and 2 alluminum shoes with gold springs would my clutch be engagining at lower rpms or higher rpms with that setup.

5-If I am racing at a little quick track what clutch setup would I want to run.

6-If I am racing at a medium smooth track what clutch setup would I want to run.

7-one more question I promise. If I was running at a big high speed track which clutch set up would I want to run.

You guys do not know how much you have helped me these past weeks so I thank you very much and I always say I learned all this stuff from the guys on rctech.net. Thanks again.
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Old 03-28-2007, 10:03 AM   #2668
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1. Imagine your driving a real car. What happens when you drop the clutch with only a few revs on board compared to a heap of revs? The same applies with the buggy clutch. A clutch that engages early means you'll have a very controllable buggy coming out of the corners (less wheelspin) but the engine can bog down and you could be slow getting going.

A high engaging clutch is the opposite. It allows the the engine to spool up and make a bit more power before the clutch engages. When it does, expect better acceleration out of the corners. Go to far and you can get snap oversteer when it starts to wheelspin.

2. If you want more acceleration out of the corners, try a slightly harder sping. If you want less snapping from the rear end, use a softer spring.
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:45 AM   #2669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi8ight
3-I am running 4 aluminum clutch shoes with 4 silver spring. ? is my clutch engaging at lower rpms or higher rpms with that setup.

4-If I am running 2 composite shoes with silver springs and 2 alluminum shoes with gold springs would my clutch be engagining at lower rpms or higher rpms with that setup.

5-If I am racing at a little quick track what clutch setup would I want to run.

6-If I am racing at a medium smooth track what clutch setup would I want to run.

7-one more question I promise. If I was running at a big high speed track which clutch set up would I want to run.

You guys do not know how much you have helped me these past weeks so I thank you very much and I always say I learned all this stuff from the guys on rctech.net. Thanks again.

3. You're running the hardest spring with a heavier (aluminum) shoe (so with centripedal force it kicks out earlier than a plastic shoe). It's going to engage later (higher rpm) than the middle between the two extremes (all plastic with silver being the latest [highest rpm], all aluminum with green being earliest [lowest rpm]).

4. The stock setup (2 alum with gold, 2 plastic with silver) engages towards the higher rpms. As Aaron Waldron said in another post, it provides very snappy throttle response and needs good throttle control (when paired with a 13 tooth bell).

5, 6, & 7. I believe, as a general rule, you want more acceleration in 1/8th offroad and so you want a clutch that engages in the middle (two black plastic, two gold aluminum is around there) to later, but may vary with driving style and/or engine/pipe/gearing. Usually only if you have a very long track with long straightaways and many sweeping corners where you can keep a lot of speed out of corners and jumps would you want a clutch that engages very low, because generally you need the acceleration to pull away from the many things that slow you down (tight corners, hard landings, collisions, poor driving, etc...).
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:47 AM   #2670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1
Dibs,
I can honestly say it is the best 1/8th scale I have driven. I have seen some issues with the stuff that I have been doing but the car is bullet proof. They usually do not like a lot of motor so beware. It is light and is geared low so you are going to need to work with your clutch and pipe to get it right.
Watch your linkage and there are a couple of more areas. No prob. Let me know if you want to go this route and I'll drop you a PM. I just wish I could drive better.

TEX

IF TEX SAID IT'S GOOD I'M GETTING ONE. AHAHAH.

yes I'm I did a lot of talking to a lot of people last night kyosho people losi people and I still like how the losi drove to me.

With that said Losi here i come good are bad.

I have werks TL B7 in hand now/2050 pipe going try this combo out first. I like a smooth motor like the v-spec. If this pipe is not right i will go to the werks 2013..







PM when you get time tex

Are you coming to the free race that action rc is having next weekend?
If so, I will look you and we can talk some more shop.


dibs
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