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Old 03-26-2007, 11:26 PM   #2641
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ya im running the radical 621T so..im not even sure lol
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Old 03-27-2007, 05:19 AM   #2642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETRO RC
truggys are the same a friend of mine did a servo on the first tank.

I have been using a futaba 9451 since day 1 and it hasn't skipped a beat.
40-60 min finals no prob. I"m also using an EX10 with the ABS function operating so i don't know if this may also be helping to releave some of the strain while braking

also seems to be problems with certain engines, everyone I know running novarossi's have had no probs, Ninja,s and RB,s seem to do servos maybe something to do with the size and position of the carbs. My rossi carb is basically straight and i still have about 3-5mm of clearance between the carb and the centre diff mount just a thought would be interested in hearing what engines where being used when servos have called it a day.

adrian
Adrian -
My LHS shop owner has used this servo (Fut - 9451) through two owners of his car with no problems.

Some engines do seem to have a carb that is a little finiky about being at an angle. If I can't pull my carb linkage rod and have it slap itself back in place then there is something wrong. I put a picture of a cut mod for the top deck of the center diff in this forum. This allows us to get any carb perfectly straight.

I have only blown 1 servo and it was my fault due to EPA when I switched from OS to Nova engines.

The fuel tubing thing behind your linkage does work. It allows for the system to absorb massive amounts of overthrow. It also helps you check if you are going too far with your EPAs. If you see it compressing it is due to your carb already being fully open.
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Old 03-27-2007, 05:58 AM   #2643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1
Adrian -
My LHS shop owner has used this servo (Fut - 9451) through two owners of his car with no problems.

Some engines do seem to have a carb that is a little finiky about being at an angle. If I can't pull my carb linkage rod and have it slap itself back in place then there is something wrong. I put a picture of a cut mod for the top deck of the center diff in this forum. This allows us to get any carb perfectly straight.

I have only blown 1 servo and it was my fault due to EPA when I switched from OS to Nova engines.

The fuel tubing thing behind your linkage does work. It allows for the system to absorb massive amounts of overthrow. It also helps you check if you are going too far with your EPAs. If you see it compressing it is due to your carb already being fully open.
TEX
Tex Dibs here.
How do you like the buggy?

Really thinking about trying this buggy. I seen you did really good 2 or 3 weekend back. nice going.

Ok to the point

The motor i'm going to use is the Werks TLB7 motor.

Ko Propo servo's pds-??68

Servo



With this card to set the load of the servo to power down if the load is to high after 3 or 5 sec. once the load is gone it powers back up asap.

ICS card
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:05 AM   #2644
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I've been running a Airtronics 94357 on my T/B on my 8ight T now with no problems. I did spend the extra time on the setup and did install the 1/10 sclae O rings under the batt box, as well as the grommets on the servo, and used the spacer under the servo...

Full brakes

This is how far open my carb is at full throttle. As you can see it's not fully open.

The O rings under the batt box...

This is how I set my gaps, a 4/40 washer..

Note. I did change out the throttle return spring for a shorter Ofna spring...
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:16 AM   #2645
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i think im going to try out the airtronics 94357 servo next. i replaced the old spring with a pen spring as well last night so maybe that will help. any one having trouble with not having enough brakes?
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:21 AM   #2646
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I had to dial OUT front brakes because I went to get on the brakes pretty hard in a short shoot were you goose it pretty hard... only to endo the thing. Dialed out some front brake and the thing was perfect. Just need a touch more on power steering.
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:45 AM   #2647
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OMG I see what is going on..



This is not long enough.

why are you guys using this short servo horn? get a long one.

On all my other buggys I used the Air servo horn or a metal horn. and all my horns where longer almost near the servo mounting screws.


Can you not mount that gas link on top of the horn?



That's what i would do.

This say it all. look at how his carb is not open all the way.

Look at the linkage at his car neck. it will bind or put to much of a load on the servo. That Angle is not good for any servo.


IS this WOT on the carb?





why put a washer here to space things out. JUST BACK OFF YOUR EXP or If you have KO radio it will be Dang it I forgot you know what i'm talking about.



Please don't take this the wrong way.

I think the info in the book maybe the wrong way to set up you servo linkage.

WITH THE SHORT SERVO HORN.





JQ buggy










These pics are from world class drivers linkage
2004 IFMAR Worlds


just something to think about guys.

DIBS
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:02 AM   #2648
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If you used an even longer servo horn, your linkage would not be parallel to your carb. Making matters even worse. The stock horn is fine.

Set your EPA's up and allow some extra movement for both added throttle and added brake to adjust for any flex issues. your good to go.
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:07 AM   #2649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETRO RC
problems with certain engines, everyone I know running novarossi's have had no probs, Ninja,s and RB,s seem to do servos maybe something to do with the size and position of the carbs.
adrian
I've run 3 different RB's in my 8 for a total of between 7 & 8 gallons with no servo issues. My pit buddy has run an RB S7 & a Radical in his for more than 9 gallons total with no servo issues. At least 2 other guys at our track are running RB's with no servo issues.

It's not the motors.
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:18 AM   #2650
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Lets find some pic's of Drake,Mike Truhe,Philip Atondo, A-Dub AKA Aaron Waldron, Billy Fischer and Travis buggy linkage. THAT WAY WE CAN SEE WHAT THEY ARE DOING LINKAGE WISE. We need real pic's not some pdf of how to do it. lol

the real deal.

I'm going to look around.

Lets near this down.

the ones that are not having this problem Knows how to set up a linkage the other that believe they know and still blow them don't know. Thats all i can think of .
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:22 AM   #2651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SupermaxxRich
Alright, here is my run threw on how I setup my throttle/brake servo, linkage and brakes..... I now have over 6 hours track time and 1 1/2 gallons threw my car getting over 10 minutes per tank with zero issues on my car! :cheers: No leaky shocks, no leaky diffs and no servo issues. I've beat this car hard!! Only thing I've broken is one upper front shock standoff and that was from landing upside down off the big "quad" jump on concrete like clay!!
We'll start off with the brakes. I'm sure most of you know how to setup your brake pad clearance but I mine as well run threw the whole setup. There is no need for more than 0.5mm brake rotor to pad clearance. First measure your brake pad

Then add 0.5mm to your brake pad measurement and then set your clearance by measuring between the head of the screw and both pads combined. make sure to make both sides as equal as possible as this will result in better pad contact to the rotor.

Now install your throttle/brake servo onto the radio tray. Use the rubber grommets and spacers. The rear of the radio tray is slotted to allow for different sized servo's. You want to make sure that the slotted portion of the radio tray is 2-3mm away from the servo case to allow for flex. In this picture you can see that the rear of my radio tray has this 2-3mm clearance.

In this picture I am compressing the radio tray to simulate chassis flex and you can see the rear of the radio tray has slid about 2mm towards the servo.

This is the area that you have to make sure you have enough clearance. If your servo fits tight into the radio tray, grind back this part of the radio tray so that you have this 2-3mm clearance. You'll also want to make sure that the slots for the rear bolts are deep enough to allow the rear of the radio tray to slide as well. When bolting your servo to the radio tray, just wind the scews down until they touch the washers. Then maybe another 1/8 to 1/4 turn after that. You should be able to slide the washer around with your finger nail or small screw driver quite easily. Take your time on this step making sure the radio tray slides back and forth easily when you simulate chassis flex.
The angle of the picture is a little off but my carb has about another 1mm clearance than what the picture shows. I spent some time grinding the top diff plate so I wouldn't have to angle my carb as much. Again, the more time you spend doing things like this the more you will be rewarded

Also when installing the rear brake cam insert into the top diff plate make sure it "pops" in all the way(sometimes it takes 2 "pops") or when you tighten the rear screws down your rear brake cam will bind! There is no need to run the rear top diff plate screws loose when the rear brake insert has been installed properly.
Now we move onto the linkage. If using the stock throttle return spring you must trim down the ball cup 2-3mm. You want to make sure you have enough clearance for your linkage "stops" to servo case. Here you can see that I thought I had enough cearance(I had 1mm clearance first time around) but after running the car on the track for a bit you can see that my throttle "stops" made some contact with the servo case. Not good.

When I first assembled the linkage it would actually touch the servo case barely. What I did to make room was grind some material away from the plastic part that the washer touches when screwing the throttle and brake linkages to the servo horn. There is quite a bit of play there in stock form so you want to take your time grinding a little off this area at a time until you have around 0.5mm clearance. This is enough clearance to prevent binding and it helps raise the "stops" about 1mm from the servo case. After realizing that 1mm clearance was not enough I installed a small washer I had that was 1mm thick between the servo horn and servo horn insert. After running my car at the track again my "stops" have not made contact again. Here is what the clearance looks like now after installing the washer.

Also this is the time to rotate your carb "pivot" where the linkage attaches too to make sure your linkage is 100% parallel so you don't have any binding.

Now take your time and set your brake "stops" so that the brakes start applying pressure after very little servo movement. I make both front and rear brakes feal about equal right now and will adjust my bias to what I like with the brake collars at the track. Also take your time now to make sure that you have at least 2mm clearance everywhere for your brake linkage on both the servo side and on the other side of the centre diff where the brake "stops" are.

So now that your brake linkage is set pretty close we can move on to setting your epa's. You NEVER want your throttle opening 100%. All thats needed is about 90-95%. Chassis don't just flex front to back. They also flex side to side so if your throttle is open 100% and your chassis is flexing your servo is being strained quite a bit! Here is how to check this out. With your radio on set your epa to what you think is 90-95% fully open.

Now with the throttle still fully opened you should be able to grab the throttle "stop" and pull the carb open at least 1mm more.

We're almost there. The 8ight doesn't take much brake pressure to make it stop. How I ruff this in is just by putting my finger threw the opening on the bottom of the chassis and spin the spur gear over with my finger. I increase the epa on the brakes until I can barely turn the spur over with my finger. This will get you pretty close on the track. You may have to add 5% or so once on the track. So now that the brake epa is set we can move onto to checking any possible binding in the brakes. Again with the radio on apply the brakes 100%(with epa set properly of course).

Now grab the throttle linkage again and pull it towards you. The carb should open a minumum of 0.150 of an inch(close to 3/16 of an inch) to allow for flex and that you will probably apply more brakes at the track once the car has been run.

Now go out and enjoy the fastest buggy to hit the track :cheers: I can pretty much garuntee if you follow these steps you will NOT have any throttle servo issues that are related to the car. If you have any questions please feal free to post hear or email me I did use Kyosho linkage springs on my car as I feal the brake springs make the braking a little more "linear" and the throttle return spring has about 50% of the pressure of the stock Losi spring. Being that I used the Kyosho throttle return spring I did not need to trim down the ball cup as the Kyosho spring is much shorter than the stock Losi one. Again this is not neccessary but something I wanted to do. I hope this helps out at least a few of you out there.
heres a good one
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:26 AM   #2652
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Like was stated above, If I was to use a longer servo horn, the linkage would not be straight with the carb. If I was to run the ball end on top of the carb, it would not be level with the servo.
In this pic, I was setting the epa on my M11. This allows for chassis flex. That is why I used the 4/40 washer. I'm not installing the washer, just holding it to use as a guide for clearance, if you look at the pics, you will notice there is no washer installed. If I was to set my epa with no slack and the chassis flexes, then I'm going to have a blown servo.

This is wide open... This is how much play I left for flex, hence my carb not being fully open. I really doubt you would notice any difference between my setting and fully open...
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:30 AM   #2653
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Wow... I guess for not knowing what I am doing, my pics look a lot like supermaxxrich's pics... What do I know... I just used his advice when setting up my servo... Maybe someday I will learn to give up on trying to help people out...
Lets see, how many servo's have I blown??? Well, I give. Two plus gallons now, and the answer is A BIG FAT ZERO...glad to know that I am not doing the setup right...
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:46 AM   #2654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlfgnggtr
Wow... I guess for not knowing what I am doing, my pics look a lot like supermaxxrich's pics... What do I know... I just used his advice when setting up my servo... Maybe someday I will learn to give up on trying to help people out...
Lets see, how many servo's have I blown??? Well, I give. Two plus gallons now, and the answer is A BIG FAT ZERO...glad to know that I am not doing the setup right...


Like i stated

THE ONES THAT ARE NOT BLOWING SERVO'S ARE DOING IT RIGHT THE ONES THAT THINK THEY ARE DOING IT RIGHT AND THEY STILL BLOW THEM ARE NOT DOING IT RIGHT.

YOU DID IT RIGHT FOR A NEW GUY.. HAHAHAH

J/K

Know what is sad losi should have made this a little easier for the new people that don't know how to set up linkage.

AS YOU see you have to know what you are doing to do it right.

The reason the buggy works so well is because it flex more than the other buggies.



TA Buggy






Travis Amezcua's 8ight 1
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:48 AM   #2655
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TA is not doing the short ball cup thing? Why is his working and the others are not?

looking for drakes too.

more TATA
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