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Old 03-20-2007, 08:26 PM   #2551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micrors4guy
ronny a- you arent running for mugen anymore?
Hey man:-)

At the moment, I have some things to do & promote for the shop, and this will also make me able to travel/race more abroad. So for this season I'm not racing for Mugen Seiki. I don't know what I will be running this year, but for now, it's currently the 8ight I'm testing out.
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Old 03-20-2007, 08:29 PM   #2552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freefallmarine
Has anyone mounted a fuel filter in the fuel splash guard? Im just trying to figure a place to put one.
You can cut or drill two small holes in the splash guard and mount a filter with a zip-tie, I tried this and it worked just fine, but be carefull where you drill your holes because space is very tight.

Also I have a idea on the leaky shock situation, when you have your shocks apart, put a thin washer (shim) in first then your first o-ring ,spacer, o-ring, plastic cap and aluminum retaining cup. The shim will compress the o-rings so they hold to the shock shaft tighter, I used some traxxas shims for the revo, and I ran the local track a few times and so far no leaks, I threw away the package the shims came in so I dont have a part # but I got them at the LHS.
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Old 03-20-2007, 09:15 PM   #2553
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Sullivan CT-1 Screen Fuel Filter

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFU76&P=0
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Old 03-21-2007, 04:43 AM   #2554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronny.A
Eric Use a heat-gun or a hair-dryer to pre-heat your engine a little before attemting to start it. Blow heat on the engine-head towards the side that your tune pipe is, not towards the servos as this builds condensation in them when it's cold in the wether Don't use the highest setting on a heat-gun, that's just too hot. This will fire up your new engine in a snap, and help against unesessary stress on your conrod & setup, not to mention your startbox-wheel
I do have a Heat-Gun so I will do as suggested.
thanks Ronny
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:24 AM   #2555
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GTB -
When getting ready to start your motor remove the glow plug, heat the crank case and oil it lightly. Once heated ( case measures 180+ ) you can prime the engine on the box for a couple of seconds. Screw your glow plug back in. Fire her up.
Take your motor to 200 + on your first tank. Don't be afraid of the needles!
Once at 200, set the idle and low needle. Dont get it on the pipe making max power. Your parts are tight mechanically and the motor is not ready for this yet. Keep running the car! If it dies, do not let it cool back down. Fire her up and on you 3rd tank you can get the motor on the pipe a little.
Once the motor stays stable for 5 minutes and the tune and temp does not change from her loosening up, you can shut it off and let it cool. Always make sure the piston is bottom dead center and not stuck in the top.
Thermal cycle the motor 4 or five times and you are set.
It would be better if you did this in a parking lot with some old wore out tires from yur LHS.
This way you don't stress the drive line too bad while your motor is tight.

The key is to break it in at temp. Any lower and the parts are not expanded fully to thier engineered dimensions.

Hope this helps,
TEX
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Old 03-21-2007, 12:19 PM   #2556
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Well I've got three different chassis here, two are new and all three are bowed up on a flat surface. Could be from the machining or posssibly even the anodizing process.

Here's something for you all to check out: A losi EIGHT brushless/lipo!!!

Go on YouTube and search Losi 8ight electric racing clip...
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Old 03-21-2007, 12:32 PM   #2557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwalters
Here's something for you all to check out: A losi EIGHT brushless/lipo!!!
Ha Ha, That's great. I just converted my Pro-spec to brushless electric. Hope to get it to the track in the next couple of weeks to see how it stands up.
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Old 03-21-2007, 01:44 PM   #2558
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The brushless 8 didn't look as if it was properly balanced. It seems the drivers side is heavier.
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Old 03-21-2007, 01:47 PM   #2559
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There are many of us intersted in a conversion like that, so let us know what you spend to put it together
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Old 03-21-2007, 02:55 PM   #2560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1
GTB -
When getting ready to start your motor remove the glow plug, heat the crank case and oil it lightly. Once heated ( case measures 180+ ) you can prime the engine on the box for a couple of seconds. Screw your glow plug back in. Fire her up.
Take your motor to 200 + on your first tank. Don't be afraid of the needles!
Once at 200, set the idle and low needle. Dont get it on the pipe making max power. Your parts are tight mechanically and the motor is not ready for this yet. Keep running the car! If it dies, do not let it cool back down. Fire her up and on you 3rd tank you can get the motor on the pipe a little.
Once the motor stays stable for 5 minutes and the tune and temp does not change from her loosening up, you can shut it off and let it cool. Always make sure the piston is bottom dead center and not stuck in the top.
Thermal cycle the motor 4 or five times and you are set.
It would be better if you did this in a parking lot with some old wore out tires from yur LHS.
This way you don't stress the drive line too bad while your motor is tight.

The key is to break it in at temp. Any lower and the parts are not expanded fully to thier engineered dimensions.

Hope this helps,
TEX

"Thermal cycle the motor 4 or five times and you are set"

Does this mean Run the engine up to 200 and shut down. Four or times or?? please define
Erik
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Old 03-21-2007, 02:58 PM   #2561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R40Victim
There are many of us intersted in a conversion like that, so let us know what you spend to put it together
I have expreance in Brushless conversions. To do it RIGHT, your looking at five to six hundred dollars, on top of your donor car
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:34 PM   #2562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwalters
Could be from the machining or posssibly even the anodizing process.
As far as metal treating processes go, anodizing (even hardcoat anodizing) is primarily superficial. It's a series of electrically charged chemical dips and it's never going to bend or stress a part. It's either the metal relieving internal pressure during milling, an intentional bend, or very poor material and part care. If the chassis was heat treated AFTER machining, that's just about the only other reason I could think of that could cause a warp (if it were flat to begin with). It's a bit less common to heat treat after machining though, primarily because the part will change, so I doubt this is the case.
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:37 PM   #2563
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lets see, Nitro Motor=200 to 350 (say 275 average). Pipe & header=125. plug, clutch w/flywheel & bell=100+. fuel=30.
That's 530 right there so it's about the same as a brushless set-up.

Downs, custom motor mount & have to recharge batteries.

Ups, no fuel, no plugs, no noise, no clutches, less mess, less maintainance(on motor).
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:40 PM   #2564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTB_USER_Erik
"Thermal cycle the motor 4 or five times and you are set"

Does this mean Run the engine up to 200 and shut down. Four or times or?? please define
Erik

There are about a dozen different ways to heat cycle an engine and group of people that will say one is better than the others...

Basically, run the engine until it reaches 200 degrees F, shut it down, get the piston down to the bottom of its stroke (flywheel will rotate easily at that point), let it cool, run till it reaches 200... etc etc. Hes saying repeat the process 5 times.

Often your engine mfg will supply break in instructions. I believe mine said start at 180, then cycle at temp increases of 10 degrees with each subsequent cycle until you're running around 220.
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Old 03-21-2007, 04:24 PM   #2565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBMike
lets see, Nitro Motor=200 to 350 (say 275 average). Pipe & header=125. plug, clutch w/flywheel & bell=100+. fuel=30.
That's 530 right there so it's about the same as a brushless set-up.

Downs, custom motor mount & have to recharge batteries.

Ups, no fuel, no plugs, no noise, no clutches, less mess, less maintainance(on motor).
Yes true...
Proper Brushless Motor = 250 to 300$. HighQuality Brushless ESC = 150 to 250$. A minumin of a 4S Li-Po Battary 300$ ( 1/8 scales are Heavy to propel). And a Charger for the Li-Po, These take a different Charger 100 to 200$.
Total = 800.00 To do it right

Fun factor; Priceless

Last edited by GTB_USER_Erik; 03-21-2007 at 04:56 PM.
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