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Old 03-12-2007, 04:33 PM   #2401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ape_x
Quick question:

I'm rebuilding my 8 buggy diffs and noticed a difference between the
8B and 8T instructions. should i get ahold of the small shims which
are a new addition to the 8T for my 8B diff rebuild?
I would like to know also. I know diff shimming is VERY important but what about INSIDE the diff?
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:39 PM   #2402
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hmm....my 8ight diffs did not come with the inside shims for the spyder gears....on my lst2, the stock diffs did NOT have the shims either, but I believe Losi started putting the shims in with diff rebuild kits after that....I have used them both with, and without the shims (on the lst2) and can tell no difference...now the outside shim (or two) do make a difference as far as ring/pinion mesh go...
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Old 03-12-2007, 05:30 PM   #2403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
Hey guys, what shims do you use on your differentials to eliminate backlash? Do you also use any INSIDE the diff? If so, what size shims do I need, or Losi part number? I have been trying to find out, but I dont see it listed in the exploded view/ price list. Thanks!

BTW put 3/4 gallon on the 8 today, and dang so much fun, but it pushes halfway through the turn off power, and a little on power. Then after a BMX track owner let us run on his HUGE track. DANG these things FLY!!! Just glad I didnt break anything landing from 20 or so feet up!
On your steering-issues,. lower the front droop, i.e shorter front shock lenght to reduce ON-power push, and increase, i.e longer shock lenght in the rear to reduce OFF-power push..

You need to think about your chassis as a flat pan,. imagen placing a marbel?-ball on it on the center. The more you raise the chassis in on direction ( F to R), the marbel-ball would roll in the oppesite direction then the one you lift, right. So, this means that the weight in the car is increased in the front if you lift the chassis higher in the air at the rear,. like the rear comes up while you are braking, and the weight is pushed forward on the chassis to give you more OFF-power steering.

Also on the front, when Reducing the front shock lenght/travel, you are not tilting the chassis as much backwards as with Full shock lenght/travel when ON-power, so you will not move as much weight backwards. I.e, you keep more weight over the front wheels while accelerating and thereby getting more ON-power steering.

Hope this helped you out somewhat
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Old 03-12-2007, 06:00 PM   #2404
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Oh ya, it all will help I am sure. I still need to know what shims to use on the diffs (inside AND out) If there is a part # I can not find it. I need know I need to shim the diff pinion gear. (I consider that "outside" the diff)

Last weekend I had full droop (ie full shock travel) Increase droop means to decrease arm travel right, or am I backwards? On my TC it is the other way around though...
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Old 03-12-2007, 06:50 PM   #2405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronny.A
On your steering-issues,. lower the front droop, i.e shorter front shock lenght to reduce ON-power push, and increase, i.e longer shock lenght in the rear to reduce OFF-power push..

You need to think about your chassis as a flat pan,. imagen placing a marbel?-ball on it on the center. The more you raise the chassis in on direction ( F to R), the marbel-ball would roll in the oppesite direction then the one you lift, right. So, this means that the weight in the car is increased in the front if you lift the chassis higher in the air at the rear,. like the rear comes up while you are braking, and the weight is pushed forward on the chassis to give you more OFF-power steering.

Also on the front, when Reducing the front shock lenght/travel, you are not tilting the chassis as much backwards as with Full shock lenght/travel when ON-power, so you will not move as much weight backwards. I.e, you keep more weight over the front wheels while accelerating and thereby getting more ON-power steering.

Hope this helped you out somewhat

Good info right there for us newbs! Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2007, 07:03 PM   #2406
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Well my steering issues have been revealed...I think. I bought the vehicle from someone else, but it was new. He built it as his backup. I decided to run it instead of checking, I ASSUMED that he used the stock setup. The rear diff was filled with grease however, and the front was all but empty. No big deal at all, but I am just rebuilding the vehicle as I type. I wanted to buy the kit to build myself, but it was a steal for a new vehicle, engine (WS7II only 1 gallon) and with quite a few extra parts, including a whole diff. Now back to degreasing the rear diff...yuck. I prefer diff oil much more.
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Old 03-12-2007, 07:43 PM   #2407
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hey guys quick question. will a mugen bii and ofna 10248 starter boxes work on the losi 8 without any modifications?
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Old 03-12-2007, 08:40 PM   #2408
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The Mugen [MUGBO230]
OFNA Chrome top start box [OFN10250] works as well, but you'll need to file the wheel like mentioned below
OFNA Chrome top start box with Dual Motors [OFN10248]
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:03 PM   #2409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtsum
Good info right there for us newbs! Thanks!
No prob
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:23 PM   #2410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scr_achy
The Mugen [MUGBO230]
OFNA Chrome top start box [OFN10250] works as well, but you'll need to file the wheel like mentioned below
OFNA Chrome top start box with Dual Motors [OFN10248]
cool thanks. the mugen is still hard to get and from what i've heard, the ofna has problems turning over brand new high compression engines. any experience with the team magic starter?
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:39 PM   #2411
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I posted this on the Grid to, but its like a flame losi fest over there, so hopefully you guys and better suite my question.


'I hear a lot about running changes and parts that should be checked up
on due to wear...

I just want to make sure I check/replace these things, before I find out
its to late.

DO you think maybe someone can make a list of possible quick wear
items.. and parts that have been replaced with updated parts. This way I
can make some purchased and double check everything.

After seeing the wear on the chassis, i just want to make sure I'm set.
I have a week coming up of pure 8ight driving (if weather permits0 and
I just want to make sure i have everything. '
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Old 03-12-2007, 10:34 PM   #2412
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Hey all. I've nearly finshed putting a Mugen Pro-Starter B II box together. I bought it on the advise of my LHS, right after buying a Ninja engine. I didnt have a box so I needed one to start this engine. It allmost appears like it wont do the job. I hope I didnt buy the wrong box???
Will this box work???????
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:34 PM   #2413
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Heat the engine up with a heat gun or blow dryer. May have to loosen the glow plug a little also.
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:51 PM   #2414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SupermaxxRich




I also installed a HT Batt Lipo in my starter box, this thing weighs nothing now and has mega "jam" for turning over the tightest of engines!







Hey Rich, is that a Dean's connector on there? I have the same starter box and was going to get that battery pack. Judging from the photo, it looks like all you did was pop in a Dean's connector. Is that all you had to do to get that pack to work?


Hey Rich?/ Did you have to raise the motor assembly inside the box , in order to reach the flywheel. I have a RTR 8ight and I have just gotten an Ninja Engine and the wheel does not reach the flywheel. Do I need a differnt engine mount????
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Old 03-13-2007, 12:42 AM   #2415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerspeed
I am gonna try this next for Revelation. My current diff set-up is 5-7-3. Last night my car was very free and carried MAD cornerspeed. Couldn't drive it very comfortably. Track was blown out. Need to numb it down.
i just got my 8 cornerspeed, so what setup are you running at REV???
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