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Old 03-01-2007, 06:06 AM   #2206
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Thumbs up Tire tuning

I have a lot of expirience with this. Last winter I ran a one-way system in the front of my 1/8 scale. I played a lot with mixing and matching tires to get the perfect blend.
Panther offered the best base to start with. K1 and K2 patterns. For those of you who don't know. K1s have a straight dash design with square lugs all around. The K2s are the same exept a seperated lug is in the center. One would think the K1s would have a little more forward BITE and the K2s would have more side BITE. Also there were 5 different compounds to run the tires in.

I found this to be one of the most useful tuning tools in all of 1/8 scale racing.
It really minimizes wrenching to find that perfect setup. Heck! You LOSI guys don't change your setups anyways.

Now sizes would change weight distribution. Only the best drivers in the world would be as consistant when you start changing the weight on the front and the rear. In long mains consistancy wins the day.

Now if LOSI would come with a square pin in their PINK, SILVER and RED compounds. I would be happy as a clam.


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Old 03-01-2007, 06:23 AM   #2207
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i would just like to have the pink taper's that the team drivers have! lol!
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Old 03-01-2007, 06:45 AM   #2208
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man, a friend of mine who is a Losi factory driver ran the 1/8 pink tapers at CRCRC's race in January...we're about the same skill level driving wise, and his best time was an 11/5:01 while my best was an 11/5:13 on Panther Switches...basically what I'm saying is, I'm expecting big things from those tires...
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:08 AM   #2209
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A few years back I use to run at a track that was very loose dirt. I often ran "crime fighters" in the front & "dirty harry's" in the rear. The crime fighters gave good steering & the dirty harrys would dig in & give you better drive out of the corners.
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:16 AM   #2210
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Unlike 1/10th scale racing where racing is only 5 minutes, 1/8th scale mains are typically 30+ minutes at larger events. Predicting tire wear goes into the equation of selecting the correct tire for the main. My tires typically wear even from side to side and front to rear and in long races my buggy typically stays balanced. It may slow down during the race because the tires donít have their sharpness but nevertheless the balance is the same.

If you go and put a harder tire on the front than the rear the tries will probably wear at un-even rates. During the race the car may pick-up a push, become loose, or worse be pushy-loose. It would take long session testing on the track to confirm how a selection of tires would work together for the entire period of an A-Main. At larger events itís not typically your local track so you donít completely know the wear rates and you typically donít get the privilege of doing a full 30 min+ practice session to be able to test to find out.

I probably wouldnít take the gamble if I knew my car is well balanced.
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:05 AM   #2211
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good point all. The tire wear in long races is something I never thought of.

Not that I race alot of 30 min. mains. Most of my racing is 15 min. Amains. The balance of compounds could play a part. Does tire wear depend on the "balance" of the setup?
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Old 03-01-2007, 11:29 AM   #2212
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..and your motor/clutch, and the track conditions, and how hard you drive it, etc...

Lots of variables.
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Old 03-01-2007, 03:27 PM   #2213
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THIS JUST IN.....
BILL BLAZE has finished his LOSI 8IGHT....
It is his first 1/8 scale buggy.....
He painted it himself with spray cans....



He forgot to glue the tires
IT BEEN THREE YEARS SINCE THE LAST TIME HE RACED...
CAN HE KEEP UP

Tune next time... Same BLAZE TIME, same BLAZE CHANNEL
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Old 03-01-2007, 04:27 PM   #2214
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Don't use different treads regarding tires, use different compunds. I secured the Norwegian Nats 2005 using Komodo II's in Medium-Soft up front, and Soft in the rear. The track had a concret-sweeper that killed tires in Soft if used at the front. The wear of the tires where equal after the 45 minutes final. Even at the Worlds 2004 in Furulund I used different compunds due to the high wear at the front, the track being 60% concret. I even tipped Mark and the other US guys about it,. so Crime XTR & M2's where the hot ticket there. And that's where & when they all started to balance there buggy-tires also, he he First they giggeled a little of me/it, until they tried a set of balanced
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Old 03-01-2007, 04:38 PM   #2215
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hey guys im buildin the 8 atm. my diff housing case does not seem to take the diff smoothly and when the 2 halves are screwed together, the ring and pinion gears become meshed together hard. when I turned the outdrives it gives a VERY clunky feel like you can feel each tooth on the ring/pinion. so my question is: is the diff supposed to be this tight?? i know losi recommends breaking in the diffs but i was wondering if anyone else has experienced immensely tight ring/pinion meshing.
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:07 PM   #2216
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Im about to drop a Novarossi plus 21-5 in my 8ight with a jp-3, any comments on this engine from people running it in the 8ight?
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:46 PM   #2217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weezer23
Im about to drop a Novarossi plus 21-5 in my 8ight with a jp-3, any comments on this engine from people running it in the 8ight?
This is the set-up in my 8 right now. It's a beast of a motor! Ill be running it at the RC/Pro race this weekend so ill tell you how it goes. Break in is about a full gallon, so take your time. This motor does have a lot of botton and is fast! I can tell the diffrence between the plus and the p-5. the plus is definatly stronger through out the range. ill have more after the first qualifier.
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:32 AM   #2218
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steveatcal - What one person calls "really tight", someone else might call "eh, kinda notchy" haha.

Many people I've heard talk about how tight their diffs felt prior to running the car, were really amazed with how much it freed up after a little break-in time. If nothing looks manufactured incorrectly (hasn't been a problem), and you have it all put together the right way, there's no reason it shouldn't smooth out.
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Old 03-02-2007, 03:58 AM   #2219
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Hello all, I just ordered a ninja R21.Bo1 makes me crazy happy to be able to drop this in my buggy soon. Here's the question????? What would be the best pipe and manifold to use on this engine?? the recomended 2053? or the JP3?????
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Old 03-02-2007, 04:16 AM   #2220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTB_USER_Erik
Hello all, I just ordered a ninja R21.Bo1 makes me crazy happy to be able to drop this in my buggy soon. Here's the question????? What would be the best pipe and manifold to use on this engine?? the recomended 2053? or the JP3?????
Peace and goodwill
This is the same mill I run and I have tested the JP-1 and an 053 pipe. The 053 pipe was stronger throughout the powerband no question. Also, Ebmods did a dyno test of this engine with the ninja pipe and the 053 pipe and the ninja pipe had the highest peak power, but the 053 pipe had the best powerband (more low end and mid range, with slightly less peak HP). 053 is the way to go!
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