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Old 09-28-2006, 09:04 PM   #151
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It looks to me that the purpose of filing the sides of the wheel is so that it does actually fit further up into the opening, because the corners of the opening are radiused, and triming the wheel will allow additional penetration into the opening, however slight, it should be enough.

I know that one of the Losi drivers borrowed my chrome top Ofna box and used it to start his 8ight. It was one of the prototypes, so the opening may have been bigger, but he used it all day without any issues...
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Old 09-29-2006, 12:01 AM   #152
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I've just completed mine. I set up the starter box before installing the motor. I had it pretty well lined up, but somehow after I added the motor, now it doesn't quite make it. I plan to bevel the chassis, like you guys have been doing. Down here in L.A.(Lower Alabama), there aren't really any rocks, so I don't think it'll be an issue.

One other thing, after the motor was in, the very free drive train got pretty tight. It's late, and I don't feel like messing with it anymore, so I'll try and figure that out tomorrow...
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Old 09-29-2006, 01:42 AM   #153
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check if the inner bearing of the clutch is in completely..
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Old 09-29-2006, 07:55 AM   #154
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It is, and so far the clutch seems to be fine(still have to test run it, been months since I even fired this motor up) The problem I had with the clutch was I left the collet from the previous clutch on the motor(syntax style, a very different animal). Once I swapped them out(the old one was alot longer), everything fit very nicely. I replaced the bearing I broke with one I had from another clutch bell, and it fit perfectly.

I can't wait to drive this thing, gonna try and get out to the track this afternoon.
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Old 09-29-2006, 03:05 PM   #155
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make sure your clutchbell sits square to the spur gear, that will cause some bind if they are not lined up properly.
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Old 09-29-2006, 03:12 PM   #156
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Does anyone know if Losi plans to offer hinge pin plates for the front to alter arm kick up? This affects how much or little the front of the car dives under braking and turn in.
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Old 09-29-2006, 04:33 PM   #157
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I don't think they will, the car has many other tuning options as it is.
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Old 09-29-2006, 05:42 PM   #158
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HobbytownUSA in Corona, CA has them for $499...

The stated "cost" may in fact be $450, but they have all sorts of behind-the-scenes discounts and programs that can make the actual cost less than that.
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Old 09-29-2006, 08:41 PM   #159
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Well, I finally got to drive it this afternoon. HOLY !@#%! I was wondering about the motor...my concerns were put to rest, when low and behold, it's FASTER than my Mayhem ever was!(Sportwerks 21, pretty quick, I'd say right about the upper middle of the field VS all the other fast motors at the track) It's closer to the 8th scale on road car I pulled it out of than anything else. I had forgotten what a 9 port 27 can do! I can't believe how well the motor is doing. It's the Power Racing motor that comes with the XR-80 RTR.

Then there's the handling. It was doing "OK" but it felt really unstable. I wasn't sure why, and then I noticed the binding in the rear wheels. I thought I had a major problem, and it took about 15 hard minutes to figure it out. The rear break was binding, even after you let off. The only way to un-bind it, was to pry it back up. So I adjusted the screws that hold the brake pads, 7 times!(seemed like they were getting crooked and stuck that way) I was about to give up, when I discovered the brake cam itself was sticking. Turns out, I had screwed the upper center diff mount too tight. I loosened it up, and BINGO!...perfect brakes! Now it should handle alot better. I kept spinning out, it was very loose. The track was also pretty sandy(it is mostly clay, but once it gets run on a bunch with no rain, it gets real dusty and slick)

It did pretty decent with constant rear brakes, I think it'll be a blast doing it the way it's supposed to do...
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Old 09-30-2006, 06:57 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka
Does anyone know if Losi plans to offer hinge pin plates for the front to alter arm kick up? This affects how much or little the front of the car dives under braking and turn in.

I have heard that Drake is running something different then box stock for these. At least that is what some of the guys at our track said after talking to him. They are suppose to be coming out in the future. They used 1mm shims under the diff case since it is sealed to get the same effect.
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Old 09-30-2006, 07:38 AM   #161
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Default The Fuel Tank

I didn't notice that anyone had mentioned this. This is my first highend buggy since the MP-5, so I don't know come this is now, but I love it. The tanks has a clunk in it like and airplane tank. When the car is upside down, unless you are really low on fuel, fuel will still get delivered. This is great. The thing you need to make sure of is that the clunk is free to move: doesn't hang-up on anything inside. Turn and flip the tanks gently and slowly. The clunk shoul be able to go from top to bottom of the tank without you having to shake or tap the tank.

It may not be a bacd idea to put a bead of silicone sealer around the outside of where the fuel tube goes into the tank. The tube is in there tightly....but there is no slick fuel has come into the picture yet. Also, the bead may help protect the opening from debri when you are using high pressure air to clean your buggy.
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Old 09-30-2006, 09:28 AM   #162
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I'm building mine right now, I had to pull the fuel line out a little in the tank. My clunk was hiting the back of the tank and not moving freely.

I put the front susspention arms and carriers together last night, both sides bind slighty at the carriers. The first one I put one screw in all the way and then the other. I though that was causing the bind, not haveing the carrier lined up perfectly with the othere side. On the second one I started both screws and tightened them down evenly and it is still not free. I backed the screws off slightly and It didn't free up.

Any body have any ideas on freeing these up, or is it normal. On all the 1/10 scale stuff I have ever built I always try to get the susspention arms to flop freely and drop under their own weight before puting the shocks on.
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Old 09-30-2006, 09:54 AM   #163
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i just ran mine and they seemed to loosen up
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Old 09-30-2006, 09:57 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 Xtreme R/C
I'm building mine right now, I had to pull the fuel line out a little in the tank. My clunk was hiting the back of the tank and not moving freely.

I put the front susspention arms and carriers together last night, both sides bind slighty at the carriers. The first one I put one screw in all the way and then the other. I though that was causing the bind, not haveing the carrier lined up perfectly with the othere side. On the second one I started both screws and tightened them down evenly and it is still not free. I backed the screws off slightly and It didn't free up.

Any body have any ideas on freeing these up, or is it normal. On all the 1/10 scale stuff I have ever built I always try to get the susspention arms to flop freely and drop under their own weight before puting the shocks on.
You can take a small file, and file down the block and spindle ever so slightly right on the surfaces where the two join each other. Also, make sure the hinge pin holes are free of any excess material from the molding process. This should free everything up!!!
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Old 09-30-2006, 11:26 AM   #165
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You can take a set of pliers and make the threads "smaller" where the metal arm bushing rides on the carrier screw. Just grab the screw with pliers and turn the screw with a wrench. This worked a lot better + easier/faster than trying to do anything on the arm since it's such a soft plastic.
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