rescuemann

I am having issues with the steering. I think that it is in the servo saver/spring. I have noticed a decline in my steering nimbleness on my truggy. I have not noticed any problems in my buggy other that the normal slop. I have tightned the nut to increase tension on the spring. I have a JR 9000S for the steering. should I loosen up the spring again? I have no idea hoe to resolve the issue other than replacing everything.

vlad_vy

Run the servo saver nut flush from the bottom of the threads on the buggy and 2-3 threads tighter on the truggy. Locktite servo saver nut after adjustment.

air8

iTrader: (7)

Yep.

rescuemann

Does it move that easy? I guess that it would bottom out on the chassis causing it to miff the steering.

cherokee180c

It will blow the servo if it backs all the way down to the chasis as it will continually tighten up until the servo goes. Make sure you locktite it down. My race roller had no locktite from the factory, but my son's RTR was locktited properly.

cherokee180c

Where did the 0.5 come from, I thought the degrees were all even? Did somebody measure it accurately?

Anyway, Thanks Air8 and Integra for turning onto the adjustable rear. I set everything up at practrice on Thursday night and won the A-main today. The car was on rails, and a huge improvement. I am sure some of it was the Bow tie tires as well, but my rear end what hooked up!

cherokee180c

My son's RTR front hinge pins wore right through the stock plastic cover today in the main and knocked him out of the race. What have you guys upgraded to in the front to prevent this? Do you need adjustable up front or is there cheaper solution.

Thanks

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

that table is wrong also.

vlad_vy

May be. But for me that working. I've checked toe-in and anti-squat, with 0.5 insert up in the front and 0.5 insert inside in the rear I have 3 degree anti-squat and 2 degree toe-in. You may compare with stock braces and use Set-Up System.

busta774

iTrader: (1)

.

air8

iTrader: (7)

When I did the captured rod ends mod to my buggy it started to break these hinge pin covers. so I changed the hinge pin covers to aluminum. I don't think you need the adjustable ones up front, but they are nice.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/14652
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/14646

cherokee180c

What is the captured hinge pin mod? Also can you buy just an aluminum cover or are you talking about the King headz parts in your link that replace both the front inner and outer aluminum and plastic parts? I like the KH parts, but $45 seems a bit steep for two pieces. I like the Losi adjustable rear end, how does the Losi front upgrade compare to the KH ones? I am pretty sure the Losi is cheaper, but you will need to replace the plastic inserts on occasion.

Thanks again for all the help guys.

tex1

iTrader: (4)

Vlad,
Did you measure this or receive this from another source? I still have not put my car on the setup station yet. I have just completely rebuilt it so now would be a good time to check.
TEX

tex1

iTrader: (4)

I like the Losi adjustables better for wear and some adjustability. Steel into the plastic seems to be no problem at all. I do shim the plastic arm away from the plastic bushing because this will cause wear and friction.
They are also cheaper than the KH product.
TEX

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

tex- the table that vad posted is also wrong. for the rear when you run 0f/0r you are setting it to 2 anti and 3 toe. so to get the stock truggy block setting you need to run 1+ in the front and 1in for the rear to give you 3 anti 2 toe.

also the adjustable peices for the front help when you go to different tracks. if you are running on a smooth tight track you can take out some kickup to get more steering out of the car. also, when a track is really rought you can add some kick up to make the car more stable in the rought.