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Old 04-21-2008, 04:37 PM   #1261
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On the center rear CV joint coupler. I noticed that if the pinion is allowed to move back and forth there is a notchy feeling when the pinion is pressed rearwards towards the crown gear. But if the pinion is pulled towards the front of the truck it is smooth as butter. So I moved the set screw on the CV coupler back on the pinion shaft so it would hold the pinion away from the crown gear a bit. But I didnt' get the coupler too close to the pinion bearing and cause over heating.

Just FYI
The pinion gear should be as far forward as it can go and should not be able to "walk".

I have been having a problem with the coupler, it keeps wanting to pull off the pinion. The set screw is kept tight and it is lock tighted but in the middle of the race the rear driveshaft will pop out the the bearing will be lost. I really don't know why
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Old 04-21-2008, 04:40 PM   #1262
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The pinion gear should be as far forward as it can go and should not be able to "walk".

I have been having a problem with the coupler, it keeps wanting to pull off the pinion. The set screw is kept tight and it is lock tighted but in the middle of the race the rear driveshaft will pop out the the bearing will be lost. I really don't know why
Inspect the coupler arround the threads. I had one on my buggy that accually cracked and did exactly what you are saying. THe force of the drive train trying to spin caused the hole screw/part that is cracked to lift and move arround.
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Old 04-21-2008, 04:41 PM   #1263
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I have had one crack before also, but this one seems fine. I have a spare so I will just replace it to be safe. Its not worth dropping out of the lead to a crappy little part.
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Old 04-21-2008, 07:55 PM   #1264
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What aftermarket tires are you guys running on the 8T for an outdoor track with low to medium traction? The stock losi's work OK, but I think I need a bit more traction. Do the proline bowties LPR premounts give more traction? I don't want to spend $80 to find out they are worse than stock.
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Old 04-21-2008, 08:08 PM   #1265
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What aftermarket tires are you guys running on the 8T for an outdoor track with low to medium traction? The stock losi's work OK, but I think I need a bit more traction. Do the proline bowties LPR premounts give more traction? I don't want to spend $80 to find out they are worse than stock.

bow's will Definatly have more forward bite then the XTT's...Crime's will also work...those are 2 Commonly stocked tires in most racer's arsenal.
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Old 04-21-2008, 08:17 PM   #1266
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Which hook up more? The crimefighters look very very similar to the Losi stock tires. I thought the bow ties look like the knobbies are a little taller and also a bit stiffer from being wider. Some guys are running badlands at my track, but they look like overkill to me and I think when the track gets tacky they tend to traction roll a lot.
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:50 AM   #1267
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Which hook up more? The crimefighters look very very similar to the Losi stock tires. I thought the bow ties look like the knobbies are a little taller and also a bit stiffer from being wider. Some guys are running badlands at my track, but they look like overkill to me and I think when the track gets tacky they tend to traction roll a lot.


ur 100% right about the badlands....when it gets tacky ur rollin ALL over the place....Crimes and Bow's are Very Very similar ... small differences between the 2.....Also u have to remember the Losi tires have a tOtally differnt profile to em then say a set of LPR's....so that can also play into how the tires will ride.
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:07 AM   #1268
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I run Panther Gators 38 series on Losi wheels.
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:20 AM   #1269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherokee180c View Post
What aftermarket tires are you guys running on the 8T for an outdoor track with low to medium traction? The stock losi's work OK, but I think I need a bit more traction. Do the proline bowties LPR premounts give more traction? I don't want to spend $80 to find out they are worse than stock.
Also keep in mind the compound of a tire can play a big role and that depends on the type of dirt you run on. Sandy, soil, clay, loam,.....etc lots of types of dirt.Integra is spot on with his suggestions. Bowties, XTT, Crimefighters are some good choices to keep ready. Panther's tires work just a well also. Sometimes they are the tire to use cause the other three aren't to your liking.
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:25 AM   #1270
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When you run the crime fighters do u want the standard or half offset? and also i just bought the front and rear hinge pin brace with inserts and was just wondering what people put in for the inserts?
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:00 AM   #1271
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You have a P.M. rcfreak
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:44 AM   #1272
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When you run the crime fighters do u want the standard or half offset? and also i just bought the front and rear hinge pin brace with inserts and was just wondering what people put in for the inserts?
The wheels you want to buy are the 1/2" offset. Doesn't matter which tires you put on. LOL. Just having fun with you.

As for the inserts the "0" will be a stock setting. You can adjust the anti-dive and rear anti-squat/toe from there. it will depend on what you perfer. Every driver is different.
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Old 04-24-2008, 10:11 AM   #1273
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I just bought a Losi 8T from a buddy of mine and I've got a clutch assembly problem.
I am using the Werks Racing Power Clutch will it fit? I've mounted the clutch on the engine and I can't seem to get the stock 13T clutch bell to fit. When I screw down tightly, the clutch bell using the stock instruction, the clutch bell gets jammed. Am I supposed to tighten it tight or use locktite and tighten it just nice so that it does not jam?
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Old 04-24-2008, 10:18 AM   #1274
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I have an 8T RR and have a set up question. The 8T actually turns too well (off power and on power) on our track tending to make the back end loose. I am still using stock tires, and am thinking about going to either crime fighters or bow ties next to try them. I fixed this problem for more balanced handling through the turns by switching to the stiffest front springs that come in the RR kit. The car now turns perfect, but I think I am now loosing time through the bumpy sections of the track due to the stiffer front springs bouncing the car too much. What is the best change so that I can go back to the stock front springs, but tighten the car back up a bit? My first thought was to drop down to the lower diameter sway bar in the back first and if that did not work remove the sway bar altogether. Am I on the right track? I also thought about going from 7/10/5 to 7/10/3 on the diff oils? Am I headed the right way and what change first?

Thanks
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Old 04-24-2008, 10:22 AM   #1275
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you can try the longer acerman bar
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