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Old 04-14-2008, 02:12 PM   #1231
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im not doubting their functionality. I just think they look stupid as hell.
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:37 PM   #1232
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Shumacher looked stupid with his wings on his helmed.
But when he became world champion F1. Every one had theme

The shields work, trust everyone who posted so.

mzl Hellsavage
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:47 PM   #1233
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Shumacher looked stupid with his wings on his helmed.
But when he became world champion F1. Every one had theme

The shields work, trust everyone who posted so.

mzl Hellsavage
once again, i did not say they did not work.
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Old 04-14-2008, 06:09 PM   #1234
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Yup, I run the arm guards on there (funny looking or not) and it helped. I didn't take the bearing insert moving into account, will have to look at it when I get it apart. Looking at how the rear diff is off set it stands to reason that dirt could hide out there and thus lead to premature wear/ failure. I guess I should keep a better eye on that, but its only the left side and that has me thinking.
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Old 04-14-2008, 06:31 PM   #1235
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hi,

i got a losi 8t, may i know which part should i change to strengthen the truggy. any kind soul can advice me on the part number?

thks
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Old 04-14-2008, 06:51 PM   #1236
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Hey, I started a thread "blowing servos". I recieved some good advice but need to know how you run your servo saver. I've heard the stock setting "nut being flush" may be too stiff. My end settings are set at 100L/R and max would be 125L/R. Servo is a jr9000T and was using rubber JR gaskets for absorbing bumps.

HELP PLEASE
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:57 PM   #1237
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Yup, I run the arm guards on there (funny looking or not) and it helped. I didn't take the bearing insert moving into account, will have to look at it when I get it apart. Looking at how the rear diff is off set it stands to reason that dirt could hide out there and thus lead to premature wear/ failure. I guess I should keep a better eye on that, but its only the left side and that has me thinking.
Pipe side. Dirt will stick to the fuel redisue easy. it happens a lot on my GT2's left rear shock.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:08 PM   #1238
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I really dig the $4.95 arm guards for my 8T, I wish they made them for my LST2 as well
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:11 PM   #1239
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Originally Posted by jgtruggy View Post
Hey, I started a thread "blowing servos". I recieved some good advice but need to know how you run your servo saver. I've heard the stock setting "nut being flush" may be too stiff. My end settings are set at 100L/R and max would be 125L/R. Servo is a jr9000T and was using rubber JR gaskets for absorbing bumps.

HELP PLEASE
I set my adjuster nut 1-2mm above the chassis. If the front tires are not turning because it is loose I will tighten it one full turn at a time. Then drive it some more and see how it is.

When setting your EPA don't go by the radio display. With the vehicle and radio on use the radio to turn the wheels all the way to one side. Then you can adjust the radio EPA down until the steering spindle isn't maxed out. Then do the other side. The best thing to do is set the EPA to 50 on the radio. Then increase the EPA until the steering stops moving out. Back it off a tiny bit and you'll be set.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:12 PM   #1240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadRussian View Post
I really dig the $4.95 arm guards for my 8T, I wish they made them for my LST2 as well


make em urself...its not exactly hard to do.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:32 PM   #1241
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
I set my adjuster nut 1-2mm above the chassis. If the front tires are not turning because it is loose I will tighten it one full turn at a time. Then drive it some more and see how it is.

When setting your EPA don't go by the radio display. With the vehicle and radio on use the radio to turn the wheels all the way to one side. Then you can adjust the radio EPA down until the steering spindle isn't maxed out. Then do the other side. The best thing to do is set the EPA to 50 on the radio. Then increase the EPA until the steering stops moving out. Back it off a tiny bit and you'll be set.
Thanks AIR8. I'll try this for sure. My Jrservo is on the way to be repaired. I just ordered the hitec UUM, 5995TG servo. You know, the 330oz. torque one I don't wanna F this one up. I love learning new tricks This is what it's all about.
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:02 AM   #1242
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make em urself...its not exactly hard to do.
Ha...yea I totally agree! A big sheet of lexan and some scissors and you will be laughing . I personally made improvements to my buggy guards, it was either the shell or the guards...I chose guards!
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Old 04-16-2008, 05:56 AM   #1243
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Originally Posted by jgtruggy View Post
Thanks AIR8. I'll try this for sure. My Jrservo is on the way to be repaired. I just ordered the hitec UUM, 5995TG servo. You know, the 330oz. torque one I don't wanna F this one up. I love learning new tricks This is what it's all about.
I hope you have an aluminum servo arm too. The high torque servos will strip the steering inserts pretty fast. And I'm talking like a few minutes of race track time. The aluminum horn from Losi is made to keep the steering geometry the same as stock. I have the Dynamite aluminum horns and the mounting holes put the steering link at a slight angle. FYI.
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:28 AM   #1244
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I hope you have an aluminum servo arm too. The high torque servos will strip the steering inserts pretty fast. And I'm talking like a few minutes of race track time. The aluminum horn from Losi is made to keep the steering geometry the same as stock. I have the Dynamite aluminum horns and the mounting holes put the steering link at a slight angle. FYI.
I too was running the dynamite with the JR, hmm... Wonder if that had to do with some stress. I now will go back to the aluminum losi sevo. I'm sure they make one for hitec.
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:38 AM   #1245
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yep. 24 splines. I havent' looked for one for the hitec but I don't see why they wouldn't make one.
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