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Old 04-01-2008, 01:43 PM   #1201
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trv...
You can buy the King Headz motor mount. It has the extra adjustments to shift your motor forward to use the three shoe clutch bell.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12776
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Old 04-01-2008, 05:40 PM   #1202
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Alot of 8T's in our local track including my mine have a problem with the rear diff and most especially the clutch bearings. We get toasted bearings in just 1 gal or less. I can deal with the diff case but the toasted clutch bearings is another thing. Very frustrating. I know their consumables but is there any advice to prolong the clutch bearings?
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Old 04-01-2008, 05:49 PM   #1203
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Alot of 8T's in our local track including my mine have a problem with the rear diff and most especially the clutch bearings. We get toasted bearings in just 1 gal or less. I can deal with the diff case but the toasted clutch bearings is another thing. Very frustrating. I know their consumables but is there any advice to prolong the clutch bearings?
Just regular maintenance after each day of running and assuring the gear mesh is ligned up good. Get the clutch off the engine and clean the bearings then relube. I'm opposite of you, I deal with the bearing wear. One gallon is pretty normal for clutch bearings. That's good. The diff wear however would upset me. Do you have the aluminum bearing inserts installed. Check them out and they should solve your diff problem. I have several gallons on my T with no F/C/R diff issues. I'd start looking for the problem. Also have you been shimming the rear diff when repairing. New parts should be allowed to "break in" for a few tanks before going full race mode on it.
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:41 PM   #1204
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Just regular maintenance after each day of running and assuring the gear mesh is ligned up good. Get the clutch off the engine and clean the bearings then relube. I'm opposite of you, I deal with the bearing wear. One gallon is pretty normal for clutch bearings. That's good. The diff wear however would upset me. Do you have the aluminum bearing inserts installed. Check them out and they should solve your diff problem. I have several gallons on my T with no F/C/R diff issues. I'd start looking for the problem. Also have you been shimming the rear diff when repairing. New parts should be allowed to "break in" for a few tanks before going full race mode on it.

so far i hav 2 gallon on my losi truggy and i havent face any problem on the center front and rear diff. perhaps the kit do not hav diff oil fully fill up.
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Old 04-02-2008, 09:51 AM   #1205
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Alot of 8T's in our local track including my mine have a problem with the rear diff and most especially the clutch bearings. We get toasted bearings in just 1 gal or less. I can deal with the diff case but the toasted clutch bearings is another thing. Very frustrating. I know their consumables but is there any advice to prolong the clutch bearings?
Another thought here, if these trucks are RTR I'd keep an eye on the gear mesh. The factory settings could be slightly off and causing the accelerated CB bearing wear. Many racers use a two piece engine mount on their Rollers which aids in clutch shoe/bearing maintenance. I can get the engine off of the chassis in about 45 seconds if my tools are already out of the pit box. LOL. Seriously though the clutch maintenance is vastly improved just because of how easy it is to remove the engine. Hell, I have even switched clutch springs between rounds to see if I would like a different setup.
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Old 04-02-2008, 08:49 PM   #1206
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Hey guys I'm a new racer and am looking for clutch setups. I want long life if posible with good power all the way through. Give me some of your favorite setups with springs. Thanks
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:23 AM   #1207
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Hey guys I'm a new racer and am looking for clutch setups. I want long life if posible with good power all the way through. Give me some of your favorite setups with springs. Thanks
MATE, you cant have extreme power AND long life from ur clutch, get a carbon clutch, replace it every 3 weeks and you will have the most responsive car out there, well maybe... there is alwayas someone out there doin something else, i have learnt alot from being involved in races
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:36 AM   #1208
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Dynamite Max life's on All silver's will work like a charm...ive been runnin that combo since summer...I love it.
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:02 AM   #1209
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Cool

As far as clutch setups go, I like the Dynamite shoes as well. Anything 7075 with all silver, gold or any combination will work. Add one carbon shoe if you want a little slip. Run it with the softer spring if you are combining springs.

Clutch bearings?? I like the Losi bearings. Shim to inner race only with very little slop. Do not let them move excessivly if you can help it and get your shims right. The King's head extended motor mount is the best fix for the Truggy. It minimizes twist between the spur gear and the bell. This can save you a lot of grief.
Gear mesh is important.
Take the clutch apart and clean it regularly and you will not have a problem. I get about 6 race nights on a set of bearings with regular maintenance.

On the rear diff, you should keep an eye on the left side insert. This will rotate in the diff case under certain circumstances. It causes wear and allows the diff to back away from the input gear by either wearing the raised ring on on the insert or wearing the inside of the housings groove. A small drop of CA glue (alum to plastic) or Shoe Goo (plastic to plastic on the stock insert) will go a long way in preventing this occurance. Make sure your bearings don't seize up.

Hope this helps,
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:29 AM   #1210
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guys looking for CB shims....These are what u want.


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4142
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Old 04-03-2008, 05:47 PM   #1211
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Thanks for all the advice. I'll try out the diff trick and I am running dynamites.
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Old 04-07-2008, 01:36 PM   #1212
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I was just wondering if you guys angle your carb so it does not hit the top center diff cover? I have to angle mine but guys at the local track state thats why i blew 3 throttle servos. should the ball link be point at an angle or straight downwards?
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Old 04-07-2008, 01:55 PM   #1213
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The carb and ball link should be setup in such a way that the carb is being pulled as straight as possible.
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Old 04-07-2008, 02:38 PM   #1214
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well, I finally picked up a 8t to go along with my 8b that i have been running since the day the car came out.
Ordered it from tilted RC for a price I could not pass up and put a vspec in it with a dyminate 086 pipe. The car came in friday arround 5:30 pm. Had the motor and servos in it by 6:30 and ready to be broken in. Went to my buddys who I was riding with to round 1 of RC pro South to start break in and help him paint some bodies.

Started heat cycleing the motor while spraying some bodies and got the motor semi broke in before we left. We broke down about 30 miles out of bossier city and had to have someone come pick us up. From there I knew the weekend was going to be a long one. Didn't get to practice any so I didnt know the track, nor did I get to tune the motor. In my 1st qualifier during warm up a shock end oulled off one of the rear shocks so I just tucked the shock under the wing and ran the race. However the club transponder didnt pick up any of my laps. next qualifier same transponder issues. so I pretty much had to bump from the last main. Bumped up to the B and in the b waited too long to make the push and me and 2nd place crossed the line les than a second apart.

Over all the box set up is good. very stable but could a little more off power steering. for my 1st time runing truggy and getting the car ready so quick with no practice I think I did well.
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Old 04-07-2008, 03:30 PM   #1215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMR View Post
Alot of 8T's in our local track including my mine have a problem with the rear diff and most especially the clutch bearings. We get toasted bearings in just 1 gal or less. I can deal with the diff case but the toasted clutch bearings is another thing. Very frustrating. I know their consumables but is there any advice to prolong the clutch bearings?
if it has the stock 427 motor in it the whole clutch set up is junk i have a muggy with the 427 in it and after about 4 tanks after the break in the whloe clutch deal just fell apart the berings were shot the shoes were gone and the bell was fried and that is the way it came from the factory but after i got a vented bell dynamite shoes and some aftermarket bearing i havent had a single problem with that engine i really like the 427 its got all the power i need and more and its a reliable 1 too after the clutch deal
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