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Old 12-22-2007, 11:22 PM   #916
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iusually only run three 5 min qual,And a 30min main in one day......
Please tell me what upgrade you come up with...............

I dont use them alot, WFO..LOL!
It's usually three 5 mins and a 20 or 30 minute main, depending on what the drivers want here. I didn't 'race' today but after about 3 tanks of gas they simply were not working, it was pretty terrible. Having other regular racers tell me they've experienced the same and had no issues after upgrading tells me it's probably time for me to upgrade too. The brakes work great for the first 5-10 minutes but after that they are junk.

The company that makes the aluminum diff cups is posted 2 pages back. Innovative RC. The website is www.innovative-rc.co.uk. It's all posted with the pictures.
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Old 12-23-2007, 08:22 AM   #917
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Factory Seal..look into Ultimate Products....i run there discs and cant ask for more stopping power....i ran em for over 2 seasons on my old jammin....Awsome brakes.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13085
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Old 12-23-2007, 09:40 AM   #918
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I've heard of the brake fade before but I don't experience brake fade. Every couple of races I will take the brake pads or when changing the diff fluid. I clean the pads with 220 grit sandpaper. I don't know if this helps or not. But this does keep the fuel from building up on the pads and the rotor. I really love the way the truck stops, and how adjustable the brakes are.
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Old 12-23-2007, 09:40 AM   #919
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Hey guys, For the brakes use The losi disk set part #LOSA3542 ... They work very well and should take care of your fading
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Old 12-23-2007, 05:40 PM   #920
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I've heard of the brake fade before but I don't experience brake fade. Every couple of races I will take the brake pads or when changing the diff fluid. I clean the pads with 220 grit sandpaper. I don't know if this helps or not. But this does keep the fuel from building up on the pads and the rotor. I really love the way the truck stops, and how adjustable the brakes are.
well mine wasnt fading at all. its just not really working. its doesnt brake much. my lhs said tat u need to run it in or so call let it wear down first, then it will work perfect, this is due to the glaze or so call wax on the surface of the brake disc.
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Old 12-24-2007, 05:37 AM   #921
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Can you run any other diffs in the 8t?
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Old 12-24-2007, 06:31 AM   #922
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Can you run any other diffs in the 8t?

Muggy cups and bevels are the same i think..could be wrong tho.
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Old 12-24-2007, 08:29 AM   #923
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If you are getting brake fade there is a good chance you may need a higher torque servo. Any truggy needs to have a very good servo to keep up with the braking needs for the truck. Derek has ran many 45 min. and hour long mains and has never experienced brake fade in the 8ight or 8ight T.
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Old 12-24-2007, 08:40 AM   #924
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good point gasser....didnt even think about that factor....if ur runnin a crappy stock 590 or somethin...i could see that not having enough "ummph" to get the job done....Ace 1313 is a wicked throttle servo imo...1015 for steering.
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Old 12-25-2007, 09:54 PM   #925
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. Innovative RC. The website is www.innovative-rc.co.uk. It's all posted with the pictures.
Thank's!
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Old 12-25-2007, 09:55 PM   #926
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Factory Seal..look into Ultimate Products....i run there discs and cant ask for more stopping power....i ran em for over 2 seasons on my old jammin....Awsome brakes.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13085
thank's for the info!
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Old 12-25-2007, 09:59 PM   #927
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If you are getting brake fade there is a good chance you may need a higher torque servo. Any truggy needs to have a very good servo to keep up with the braking needs for the truck. Derek has ran many 45 min. and hour long mains and has never experienced brake fade in the 8ight or 8ight T.
thats why i have never had any fade i run 9000t,Maybe over kill butt i like strong Servo's.......
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Old 12-26-2007, 05:42 AM   #928
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We have used JR 9100Ts for both steering and throttle in the 8ight T and JR 9100S for steering and 9100Ts for throttle in both his 8ights all summer with no issues.
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Old 12-26-2007, 07:27 AM   #929
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Gasser u do know that the T is for Torque not throttle and the S is for Speed...not Steering...ive seen a couple racer's make this mistake and feel like dummies after....whats the reasoning ?
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Old 12-26-2007, 08:37 AM   #930
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Yes I an aware of that, my son drives for JR and we tested the 9100 series servos most of the summer. Derek likes the speed of the "S" servos for buggy steering but in the truggy you need the torque and holding power to handle the massive tires. I think the "S" servos are too fast for a throttle servo and can cause tuning issue due to the fact that their mechanics are faster than the air/fuel mixture can move and cause a lean bog feel. If you tune your motor with a slower servo like the "T" then switch to a "S" speed servo you can feel the lag at bottom end. We have tried this back to back and Derek noticed the lag and I could not totally get rid of it by changing the tune. The combination of a fast trigger finger and the advancement in radio technology can really make this an issue.
Just my thoughts.
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