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Old 12-02-2007, 11:17 PM   #841
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Good starting list for bullet proofing



One other thing I tried and stuck with is moving the rear camber link to the 1 position on the shock tower. Stock setting is 4. I did a few add ons to make it stronger. I had a crash course with the buggy so I knew the possible weak points. Alum servo saver top, alum center bearing adapter, captured ends for the steering link, alum front inner hinge pin cover, alum rear bearing inserts. I also added the extended King Headz engine mount but that was more for convenience. Oh I put a screw in the unused hole for the lower shock screws. In the buggy they would back out fast.
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Old 12-02-2007, 11:27 PM   #842
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Alright, thanks for the helpful and quick answers.

Although some of it seems like spanish to me, I'm sure once we get the truggies, and look at them and this thread I will know more of what you are talking about.

-Brandon
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Old 12-03-2007, 02:12 PM   #843
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I hear talk of problems with the center diffs on the 8T. The pins wear out the case. Since the Losi 8 and Mayhem/Turmoil diff cases are the same why not just put an aluminum after market diff case like this one in? http://cgi.ebay.com/DIFF-CUP-Sportwe...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 12-03-2007, 02:18 PM   #844
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I hear talk of problems with the center diffs on the 8T. The pins wear out the case. Since the Losi 8 and Mayhem/Turmoil diff cases are the same why not just put an aluminum after market diff case like this one in? http://cgi.ebay.com/DIFF-CUP-Sportwe...QQcmdZViewItem


Rotating mass my freind....u wanna kill THE lightest drivetrain there is by adding allum cups.....i would'nt reccomend it.....just replace the cups when need be...they dont wear "THAT" fast.
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Old 12-03-2007, 04:14 PM   #845
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I hear talk of problems with the center diffs on the 8T. The pins wear out the case. Since the Losi 8 and Mayhem/Turmoil diff cases are the same why not just put an aluminum after market diff case like this one in? http://cgi.ebay.com/DIFF-CUP-Sportwe...QQcmdZViewItem
If U are gooing to give them a try. U are looking at the best. Make sure there made out of 7075 alu. and I know Nova makes the best.

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Old 12-03-2007, 05:23 PM   #846
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Rotating mass my freind....u wanna kill THE lightest drivetrain there is by adding allum cups.....i would'nt reccomend it.....just replace the cups when need be...they dont wear "THAT" fast.
I have to laugh at these "rotating mass" arguments. Billy Easton had a bit of aluminum on his prototype buggy drive train and he had no problem spooling up anywhere on the track. As a matter of fact, he lapped the entire field of top pros, including Matt Gosch, by 3 laps within the first 5 minutes of a 30 minute main yesterday.
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Old 12-03-2007, 07:31 PM   #847
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Air8,
There are a couple of things you can do to make the vehicle more race bullet proof.
  1. Servos - Only use coreless versions that can be closed by a simple spring or rubber band.
  2. Use fuel tubing on the throttle linkage to compensate for when the chassis flexes and you are at full throttle.
  3. Space the servos up and get the rubber ear boots on.
  4. Take the servo saver and relocktight it after it is set.
  5. Throw the steering servo horn in the trash and get the Losi alum one.
  6. Capture the ends of the steering linkage.
  7. I suggest running the Kings Headz extended motor mount to protect your clutch bell and spur gear.
  8. Put a peice of thick lexan over the foam in your battery box to make a rigid floor.
  9. Surround the batt in foam so it wont move.
  10. Never run solid tabs between the cells on your batteries! They are a failure point. Go with old school braid and shoe goo. The battery will never come apart but it can flex if need be.
  11. Shoe goo the inserts into your shock tops. Ream out the insert so it rotates freely on the shock mount and apply grease between the mount and insert. Now your shock tops will not wear out.
  12. Go with the Losi alum servo saver top. The plasic will now wear on the alum as much and you will not have to service it all the time.
  13. Get a smaller switch than what comes with it. Those big switches go out all the time.
  14. I do not run switches because of this reason.

Hope this helps,
TEX
For the fuel tubing trick, just take about 1/4" and put it on the end of the linkage? Other than that, I have already done these........
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Old 12-04-2007, 06:53 AM   #848
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I have to laugh at these "rotating mass" arguments. Billy Easton had a bit of aluminum on his prototype buggy drive train and he had no problem spooling up anywhere on the track. As a matter of fact, he lapped the entire field of top pros, including Matt Gosch, by 3 laps within the first 5 minutes of a 30 minute main yesterday.


exactly...A BUGGY. ...completely differnt then a trug....and Plain and simple Alloy cups ARE NOT needed.
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Old 12-04-2007, 11:07 AM   #849
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I took my center diff apart yesterday (after my first race I decided I wanted to tear it down). I did notice a little wear in the diff cup from the pins, however it was very little wear at best. I decided to put it back together and it would be fine for another week or two of practice, which also will give the LHS some time to get the parts in for me anyway. You guys wouldn't happen to have any pictures of ruined diff cups though would you? I'm assuming once the diff cup gets bad, then you'll start stripping gears and such. Do the front/rear diffs have the same problem as the center diff? And what fluids do you guys use in the diffs, 7-10-3? Thanks for the help!
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Old 12-04-2007, 07:08 PM   #850
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my truggy does seem to have shown any wear in the diff cups about 2 gallons)yet but I stripped down my buggy (about 5-6 gallons)and the rear diff cup is pretty shot it's slotted about 2-3mm but the gears look perfect go figure
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Old 12-06-2007, 07:03 AM   #851
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My news Innovative-rc diff cups



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Old 12-06-2007, 12:03 PM   #852
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My news Innovative-rc diff cups



How about a price, and where'd you get them?
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Old 12-07-2007, 01:16 AM   #853
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I'll guess $55usd. But wait the Euro is gaining now....so I'll go $70. LOL.
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Old 12-07-2007, 01:25 AM   #854
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That diff cup is awsome.
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Old 12-07-2007, 06:00 AM   #855
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Ok...so how do I get them in the US?
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