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Old 10-18-2007, 08:29 PM   #721
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Default servos issues and part wear and tear...

its good to elaborate on this matter. i thank you and appraciate for such info.
oh so sorry to hear tat u happen to burn two servo too.

i guess we need to space the servo as high as possible of the chassis so tat when the chassis flex it wil not touch the servo. perhaps 5mm or 10mm.

on the other hand this particular share with me that he burn the steering servo instead, he didnt mention bout throttle.






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I understand having reservations about the 8T. A lot of people just don't understand the stress the servos go through. It's a big load. Anyways, the throttle servo needs to pull the carb as straight out as possible. All 8th scale vehicles need this done. The linkage needs to pull/push the carb straight in and out. Having a side load or binding of the carb can wear the servo out very fast.

On my 8-T, I burned two good servos before I realized the servos were not off the chassis far enough. I only had about half of one millimeter of clearance. 8th scale chassis will flex enough to hurt the servos with small clearances like this. I mean, someone could buy a super torque, all metal servo, and still kill it in one or two tanks if the setup is incorrect. Servos are not designed or built for improper setup.

In any 8th scale racing the servos need proper End Point Adjustments (EPA), proper alignment, and proper clearance, as well as proper voltage. Lipos without regulators can hurt the servos also. Sorry for the long post, but the more info the better in my opinion.
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:34 PM   #722
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Yeah, just can't space it too high or the linkage alignment won't pull the carb straight out. LOL. There seems to be too little and too much of anything in this hobby. 5mm will be very high I think. But like I posted, try to keep the throttle servo pulling/pushing as straight as possible.
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:45 PM   #723
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i see i see. nah such simple setup will save you money so its ok to spend some time to it. AIR8 do u face funr servo for sterring???


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Yeah, just can't space it too high or the linkage alignment won't pull the carb straight out. LOL. There seems to be too little and too much of anything in this hobby. 5mm will be very high I think. But like I posted, try to keep the throttle servo pulling/pushing as straight as possible.
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:53 PM   #724
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. AIR8 do u face funr servo for sterring???
Could you re-phrase the question please? I don't understand "face funr servo for steering" I use the Ace 1015 for steering in the truggy cause I perfer the speed. It does a great job.
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:39 PM   #725
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Could you re-phrase the question please? I don't understand "face funr servo for steering" I use the Ace 1015 for steering in the truggy cause I perfer the speed. It does a great job.
oh sorry typo error. i mean do u face servo failure or burn servo for the servo used on steering as well???? cheerss
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Old 10-19-2007, 12:10 AM   #726
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Well I've had one servo break on the steering. I must have had the servo saver really tight. With the Ace there is a brass gear pressed on a steel shaft and the pressed bronze gear came loose. I put a new gear set in and loosened the servo saver a couple turns. All these servo issues happened to me within a few weeks time.

For the steering servo, set the EPA for full steering. But..make sure the servo doesn't travel far enough to open the servo saver. Also be sure the EPA aren't so far out that the steering links and suspension isn't moved by the servo. I set the truck on something to get the wheels off the ground. Then turn to the right or left all the way. I back the EPA down until I have full travel that direction without causing the parts to move. You'll know what I'm talking about when you try it. Servos are strong enough to actually twist the front end a little. Then I repeat for the other side.

This is setting the EPA. Try to not put extra stress on the servos. Just let them do what they need to do without any extra work. The better set up a servo is the longer it will last. Some people are good enough to have servos for years. I just recently have afforded to put the Ace 1015's in buggy and truggy. I will now see how long they last for me.

Also after taking the vehicle apart for cleaning/inspection/repair, be sure to check the servo EPA again. It's a good idea to stay on top of them. After checking them for a few races it becomes a small affair. No big deal.
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Old 10-19-2007, 06:44 AM   #727
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Default lot of works

seems like lot of works and need bit of upgrade too. oh all these works seems tricky. mmmm. duno wat to go for.mugen or losi. sigh. if money is not an issue might jus get both. solve all the problem hahaha.

anyway thank u very much air8



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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Well I've had one servo break on the steering. I must have had the servo saver really tight. With the Ace there is a brass gear pressed on a steel shaft and the pressed bronze gear came loose. I put a new gear set in and loosened the servo saver a couple turns. All these servo issues happened to me within a few weeks time.

For the steering servo, set the EPA for full steering. But..make sure the servo doesn't travel far enough to open the servo saver. Also be sure the EPA aren't so far out that the steering links and suspension isn't moved by the servo. I set the truck on something to get the wheels off the ground. Then turn to the right or left all the way. I back the EPA down until I have full travel that direction without causing the parts to move. You'll know what I'm talking about when you try it. Servos are strong enough to actually twist the front end a little. Then I repeat for the other side.

This is setting the EPA. Try to not put extra stress on the servos. Just let them do what they need to do without any extra work. The better set up a servo is the longer it will last. Some people are good enough to have servos for years. I just recently have afforded to put the Ace 1015's in buggy and truggy. I will now see how long they last for me.

Also after taking the vehicle apart for cleaning/inspection/repair, be sure to check the servo EPA again. It's a good idea to stay on top of them. After checking them for a few races it becomes a small affair. No big deal.
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Old 10-19-2007, 07:26 AM   #728
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One other thing that I did with my throtle servo. I noticed that the chassis was pretty hot after a long main and was thinking that the heat was having a major factor in the servo failure, (killed a JR 9000s). Replaced it with a JR 9000t.

- I used the rubber grommets that came with the servo
- Put heat tape on the servo (bottom and side that faces the motor) to help reflect heat
- I have not heard of anyone else doing this but I tried something new. I drilled 2 holes
in the chassis right below the servo then countersunk them. (I think it was a 3/8" bit).
I did this to help disapate heat to it would not sit directly below the servo and for
the added air flow for more cooling.


- EPA are VERY important
- I now have 4 gallons on this set-up and has worked without any problems so far

just my $.02
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:37 AM   #729
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Might try putting some fuel tubing on your throttle pull linkage. When you are at full open throttle and your chassis flexes it will not effect your servo.
I'm pretty sure this is the biggest single culpret in throttle servo failures in these cars.
TEX
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Old 10-19-2007, 12:02 PM   #730
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Originally Posted by tex1 View Post
Might try putting some fuel tubing on your throttle pull linkage. When you are at full open throttle and your chassis flexes it will not effect your servo.
I'm pretty sure this is the biggest single culpret in throttle servo failures in these cars.
TEX
I forgot about this. Thanx Tex. I have mine set this way in buggy and truggy. Funny how the little things escape the mind.
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Old 10-20-2007, 01:43 AM   #731
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Got my car a few days back and I am very happy with it.
Last night I thought I run in the diffs as stated in the Losi manual.
I was spinning the wheels for abut 1 min when suddenly I felt some hot oil on my hand.
I stopped the car directly but the dammage was already there.
My centerdiff is completly melted and the gears are sollid melted in the diffcup.
I think someone forgot to put in the shimrings.

mzl Hellsavage
Attached Thumbnails
Losi Truggy-herschaalde-kopie-van-pic_0373.jpg   Losi Truggy-herschaalde-kopie-van-pic_0374.jpg   Losi Truggy-herschaalde-kopie-van-pic_0375.jpg  
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Old 10-20-2007, 03:39 AM   #732
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damm my center diff is bad too

got mine on friday was playing round with it that night
(cudint start it the girl would kill me too late lol)
then i noticed that the center diff spur gear was bent
so i took it out and yea it was banana shaped lol
new one comes in tuesday gerr no running for me
and long weekend too ahhh

did get it run in tho just sat it there and let it run
took like a friggin hour so i busted out the camera

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdSWhm49ikk

see no center diff
any body else had any issues like that???
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Old 10-20-2007, 07:05 AM   #733
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Default air 8 do u hav part number list or photo for the upgrades

hi air8 u mind showing photo of those u mentioned ?

1. Some people put lexan/extra foam in the bottom of the battery box cause they hade problems with the plastic screw boss breaking the battery.
any photo of ur modification done on it ?

2. Outer tie rod ends will pop off (like they are designed to do) after tagging pipes or walls. I am one of those people and there is a captured rod end mod. I used the 6.6mm inner steering balls (A6050), a 5-40X1/2" screw, and 5-40 washer. is it the front steering linkage ?

3. The next weak link will be the front inner hinge pin plastic cover. I put an aluminum plate from King Headz on. any photo shot of it ? which brand of upgrade u hav change the hinge pin to ?


4. For convenience a quick change engine mount makes life simple. Clutch maintenance/tuning is easier. Losi and several others make a QC mount and they are expenisve but worth it.

any photo of the qc mount ?
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Old 10-20-2007, 10:50 AM   #734
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Dam Hellsavage, did your diffs have grease or diff oil in them? On this thread there were a few that had center diff problems but I kind of thought they were isolated incidents.

Rossii-I will get a camera tonight and post pics. I get off work at 11:00 central US time.

1. The boss the screw threads into is what interferes with the battery. Extra foam would be as helpful as lexan. I don't have the lexan in my battery box. I use foam under the battery.

2. http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced..._description=1
This is the inner steering ball set to use for the captured rod ends. The non-threaded ball is the one to use. The threaded ball that is built with the truck is removed and the non-threaded is put in its place. Then a washer on top of the new ball, then a screw long enough to pass through down to the locknut on the bottom of the steering spindle.

3. I used the King Headz cover. This isn't necessary though. When I did the steering mod on my buggy, once in a while the front inner hinge pin cover would break, allowing the hinge pin to slide backwards. This is only needed to further bulletproof the truck.

4. http://kingheadz.com/ Here is pics of the inner front cover and extended chassis braces. I buy them from Amainhobbies.com
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Old 10-20-2007, 11:26 AM   #735
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After a day of tinkering and mesuring I made a diffcup frome a Hellfire fit the Losi.
The front 0.3mm shorter and de back 2.5mm I used the planet gears frome the Hellfire with some shims and I used the front and rear gears from the Losi diff.
I have it working and she turns smoother the she did with the Losi diff.
I hope to get some lifetime out of this one.

mzl Hellsavage

@air8 Diff oil

Last edited by Hellsavage; 10-20-2007 at 11:53 AM.
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