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Old 10-08-2007, 11:28 PM   #691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETRO RC View Post
hey DOL,
you can get a race roller from NZ for $1099 nzd no matter what you buy if you want to race it you'll have to change tyres as the rims are elegal in NZ at this stage

http://rcb.shopnz.biz/catalog/index....af4fad74c8a635

where abouts are you based if you need setup help on tracks down here I'd be more than happy to help you out.

couple of things to look out for when importing to New Zealand are

1. if the package is worth more than $400 nzd you'll have to pay GST
( got caught out on this one)

2. if the package is worth more than $1000 nzd inc GST you'll get hit with an importers licencing fee.

so be careful it may just be cheaper to buy in NZ

I don't know if you use the hobby direct forums or not but heres a link anyway
http://hd.raptor.co.nz/phpBB2/

Adrian


yea ive ordered it from the lhs round $1300 hes with RCB so yea gota support the local guys a (if i brake it he'll fix it)

the tires will be good for running it in and thrashing it round the house
got some bush down the back im gona build a bit of a track on
ill post some picks later

just got in truble with the gf she saw the price


errr
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Old 10-10-2007, 09:21 AM   #692
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For people wanting to know the difference between the Roller and the RTR

[quote=ShotGunn;3487912]Does anyone know of a complete list of the differences between the RTR an the pro...
SHOTGUNN----
Aside from the obvious engine, pipe and electronics here is a list. I have not seen the RTR in person so this is going off the differences on the 8 buggy.

shock towers, shock caps, shock shafts, shock pistons, shock springs, shock seal retaining caps (lower caps), hinge pins, hex drives and wheel nuts, chassis, diff grease (instead of diff oil), steering hinge pins, sway bars, engine mounts, clutch bell, and clutch shoes.
Also I assume the body come painted on the RTR.
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Old 10-10-2007, 09:25 AM   #693
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Good starting list for bullet proofing
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Originally Posted by RETRO RC View Post
nice choice the 8T rocks here a small list of things that need attention

1. check all parts are loctited as some kits have had problems with screws coming loose, especially the front centre universal.

2.make sure that your end points on the throttle servo are set properly and that there is no binding (under braking especially). 3-5mm of fuel tubing on the pull side of the throttle servo horn is a must.

3. the plastic inserts in the factory servo horns have been known to strip on the steering servo so it might pay to get a solid aluminium horn for the steering.

4.the plastic rear bearing inserts wear pretty quickly on the 8T so it might pay to get the ali ones part# LOSA4430 theyre alot cheeper that replacing a crown and pinion gear.

5.clutch shoes either king heads 7075's or the dynamite long lifes would be my pick haven't tried the new losi long lifes yet

I'm sure there are things that other people have or are doing but these a just a few to get you started

have fun burn nitro

Adrian

One other thing I tried and stuck with is moving the rear camber link to the 1 position on the shock tower. Stock setting is 4. I did a few add ons to make it stronger. I had a crash course with the buggy so I knew the possible weak points. Alum servo saver top, alum center bearing adapter, captured ends for the steering link, alum front inner hinge pin cover, alum rear bearing inserts. I also added the extended King Headz engine mount but that was more for convenience. Oh I put a screw in the unused hole for the lower shock screws. In the buggy they would back out fast.
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Old 10-10-2007, 11:08 AM   #694
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@Air8
Thanks man this is what I need

What do U meen whith this
"alum center bearing adapter"

mzl Hellsavage

Last edited by Hellsavage; 10-10-2007 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 10-10-2007, 11:44 AM   #695
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No problem. Just don't forget the heat shrink/CVD wrap for the front and rear driveshaft CVDs. If you get this truck you'll like it. So easy to drive fast. Some people recently started talking about adding a piece of lexan to the bottom of the battery box. There is a screw in the bottom that holds the radio tray down. The plastic boss/hole is raised a few mm's off the floor and some have had that interfere with the battery. The lexan will make a solid floor and of course your battery should always be cushioned with foam in off road.
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Old 10-10-2007, 12:05 PM   #696
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So far I have a list of items I will buy to make it the complete racer fore me.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13168 CVD condoms
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9775 aluminum rear gearbox bearing inserts
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13549 alu servo saver
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13553 alu servo horn
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12776 EZ Change Extended Motor Mount

Also I will need this
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/11341 Tony's screws kit

and I was wondering if this whould be any good
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12725 optional King Headz Extended Rear Chassis Brace

I want this to be my winning car for 2008 and I have all winter to prepair and test it.

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Old 10-10-2007, 12:17 PM   #697
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The engines I am going to run wil be a C6 bb and a modded v-spec.
The servos will be 2x ACE 1015.
Wheels will be GRP grip, the cubics and the Losi wheels witch I dont know yet.

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Old 10-10-2007, 12:31 PM   #698
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I don't know if you need the extended rear chassis brace. Tuning can be done with the plastice and aluminum braces. Our locals are all plastic still. some say the flex helps traction in the corners. Others like a stiff chassis. So much tuning can be done it's ridiculous.

On the GRP tires--bead of tires need to be narrowed slightly to fit in the bead channel of the Losi rims. I have mounted up Proline tires no problem/trimming/cutting. A friend got the GRP cubics cause that is all the LHS had for truck tires and he said the beads just wouldn't fit. So he narrowed the bead no biggie. Maybe you know this, but Proline is coming out with larger diameter rims and low profile tires. Might be good to wait for them. The Losi XXT tires work really well. We use them for most conditions.
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Old 10-10-2007, 12:45 PM   #699
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@Air8
Thanks for the help. The order is placed and now I wil hope I have it all now.
I already bought me some spare arms. so 2008 her I come.

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Old 10-10-2007, 05:47 PM   #700
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@Air8
Thanks for the help. The order is placed and now I wil hope I have it all now.
I already bought me some spare arms. so 2008 her I come.

mzl Hellsavage
You will be surprised by the strength of the arms. On my buggy the only reason I replaced them, mid-season, was cause I thought I had dirt build-up and binding. The old arms had a small amount of play in them, but nothing I would call significant.
I've had my 8T for several races now and I've never even looked to see if there is a spare set of arms at the stores. I'd think the truck would need to hit something VERY,VERY hard to break an arm. But like I said you'll be surprised with the strength.

I'll ask: has anyone on here ever broken an arm? At all. Crash/bash/race/stepping on it/twisted?
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Old 10-10-2007, 06:28 PM   #701
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6 gallons and all oringinal arms, no slop execpt from the hinge pin mounts. Many crashes and arms are strong
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Old 10-12-2007, 04:39 AM   #702
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Who try to put the pinion gear buggy (13T), on the Truggy ????

The speed is increase no ?

What do you think ?
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:05 AM   #703
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FYI - The 13t clutch bell comes with the truggy. The 14t clutch bell comes with the buggy. But I do like running the 14t on the truggy.
Hope this helps,
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Old 10-12-2007, 06:24 AM   #704
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If he is referring to the diffs some say they have put the ring/pinion combo from the buggy on the truggy. This would give an increase in top speed but less acceleration.
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Old 10-12-2007, 08:23 AM   #705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air8 View Post
If he is referring to the diffs some say they have put the ring/pinion combo from the buggy on the truggy. This would give an increase in top speed but less acceleration.
Yes it's diff !!
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