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Old 09-03-2007, 12:04 PM   #601
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Cool, thanks for the info. The friend I got it off of went nuts on the after market goodies, and the suggested upgrades are covered. Thanks
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Old 09-03-2007, 12:20 PM   #602
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Also inspect your servo saver adjusting nut to make sure it does not back off. Use lock tite if it is backing off.

This truck rocks! I used PL holeshots mounted to Losi rims without modifying the tire carcass. This setup hooked up excellent this weekend. I used an O.S. 21VG (stock) with a JP-1 pipe. Tons of power and tons of traction. Paired together with the 8T, so sweet. LOL. I'm stoked that this truck does so well. The buggy is super dialed also but there are so many fast drivers it's hard to keep up. I'm very happy to do so well since I've only been racing since February. Woo-hoo!
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:12 PM   #603
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Air8, Seem's you like the truggy... Now we just need to find a race that will take 2 sportsman hacker's..hehehe.....Glad your havin a blast..
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Old 09-08-2007, 01:20 AM   #604
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I've only driven one other truggy and that was a CRT. So it wasn't exactly set up for me, but the 8T feels like a dream. It seems to know what I want it to do. Awesome feeling. I can't wait for the "Hackers R Us" race. LOL. Seriously this truck is easy to drive fast. I can see how developing driving skill would be hard with this truck. I don't mean to put it down but you don't have to maintain an exact line or rhythm like 10th scale or even 8th scale buggy. Its fun, that's all I can say.
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Old 09-09-2007, 02:22 PM   #605
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I ran my new 8T for the first time yesterday, LOVED IT!!!! I was wondering those if anyone elso was having troubles with the rear shock ends? I managed to break 2 of them, which were on the right rear wheel both times. Someone who races a Mugen says it was the way I was landing. The jumps were not very large at all. So if anyone one has any tips for me, I'm listening.

- Clark
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Old 09-09-2007, 03:09 PM   #606
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I use the droop screws in the rear to keep the shocks from fully extending. I set the screws so they just touch the chassis and then adjust each weekend as needed. When the shock ends pull apart I just reset the droop screws and they do fine for several months till the chassis becomes recessed from the screws. I suggest trying this and see how it works out.
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Old 09-09-2007, 03:22 PM   #607
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Makes sinse. Thanks Air8. Oh! my 8T did have grease in the diffs. I changed them to the 7-10-5. Which was a lot better. Do you or anbody else have any other set up tips for it?
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Old 09-09-2007, 03:32 PM   #608
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One other thing I tried and stuck with is moving the rear camber link to the 1 position on the shock tower. Stock setting is 4. I did a few add ons to make it stronger. I had a crash course with the buggy so I knew the possible weak points. Alum servo saver top, alum center bearing adapter, captured ends for the steering link, alum front inner hinge pin cover, alum rear bearing inserts. I also added teh extended King Headz engine mount but that was more for convenience. Oh I put a screw in the unused hole for the lower shock screws. In the buggy they would back out fast.
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Old 09-09-2007, 03:36 PM   #609
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Oh yeah, make sure to use loctite on the center driveshafts where they attach to the pinions and then wrap with shrink wrap. On the front be sure to trim away any extra shrink wrap that might rub on the steering servo horn. That reminds me again, I use an aluminum steering servo horn. The plastic one broke on the buggy twice. Racers edge sells them two to a package and that helps if you're using the same servo spine count between the two vehicles.
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Old 09-12-2007, 12:24 AM   #610
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Man, I have been jonesing to drive this thing for a while. Our last race was a week and a half ago. My T is runs very strong with the O.S. 21 VG. It has the right amount of traction and power for the tracks around here. I need to do some pipe testing with it though. I only have the JP-1 pipe for it and seems to lack slightly on the top end. Might be a good thing though. I can't overshoot the corners as easily. LOL. JK. Gettin' antsy for the weekend.
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Last edited by air8; 05-11-2008 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 09-12-2007, 09:55 AM   #611
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if you are having problems with the pins coming out of the center cvd's, you need the gmk supply cvd condoms. i ran 3 races with the set screw loose just to see if it would destroy anything on the front cvd and it did not hurt anything, i relubed and am still using all of it including the condom. reusing a condom just sounds wrong, lol!
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:10 AM   #612
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Has anyone had the gears slip in the diffs yet? My front and center diffs are both locked up because the pins rotated in the diff cups. Just wondering if was happening to anyone else.
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:21 AM   #613
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Here goes a dumb question. I was starting to experiment with the different clutch springs and the differences between the composite shoes versus the aluminum shoes. Well, when I went to place my order I noticed that there where different degree of springs, 25 deg and 30 deg. Since I am relatively new to the 1/8th scale racing, I am assuming that the 25 is the soft and the 30 is the harder spring. Am I correct on that? Also what would the pro's and con's be for running the different springs. Our track is lightly watered between each race, so you start out with traction but by the time the 6 minutes are up the track is almost dry again. Right now I am running the 4 shoe aluminum with I think silver springs all the way around.
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:32 AM   #614
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The grooves where the pins slide in get alot of stress ,they will wobble out causing the gears to slip.
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:57 AM   #615
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I forget the degrees and such, but in order from soft to hard: Black/Green/Gold/Silver. Silver has the highest engagement. I probably wouldn't run silvers unless I had a really high bite track or a peaky motor.
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