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Old 12-01-2008, 04:50 PM   #1771
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What's the TFT?
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:59 PM   #1772
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Tuned Flex Technology.
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Old 12-01-2008, 08:53 PM   #1773
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What's the TFT?
Tuned Flex Technology. it has machined areas in the radiused edges of the chassis which makes it flex more.
here is a linkhttp://www.tiltedrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=4051
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:02 PM   #1774
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nice , thanks guys.
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:42 PM   #1775
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Hey guys just picked up a new 8ight T Race Roller cheap and wondering what upgrades are recommended. I am a experienced racer but not with Losi's. I did pick up a HD diff for the rear I hear that might be a weak spot?? how is the stock Motor mount? what else is needed or is there anything that is a weak spot?
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Old 12-05-2008, 09:56 PM   #1776
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Personally, I'd suggest an extended quick change engine mount to reduce some flex around the clutchbell/spur gear area. It seemed to help prolong clutchbell bearing life for me. If you crash enough the outer rod ends on the steering linkage will pop off easier and easier over time. Kyosho and Calandra Racing Concepts sell a "no-pop" kind of pivot ball. If you use these with a bit longer screw and a washer under the screw head, you won't have to worry about these ends popping off so easy.

Get the aluminum bearing inserts for the rear diff case. If you use a powerful engine look at getting the HD diff case for the center diff. Although the new 2.0 cases are said to be better than the HD cases.

Use heatshrink, or the "2.0 grease boots" for the Center F/R pinion couplers. Also GMK sells a set specifically for the 8ight and T. Basically just vacuum caps with a hole punched in the center.

Just develop a good maintenance routine to check things over every couple of race weekends and you should be good to go.
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Old 12-06-2008, 06:14 AM   #1777
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Personally, I'd suggest an extended quick change engine mount to reduce some flex around the clutchbell/spur gear area. It seemed to help prolong clutchbell bearing life for me. If you crash enough the outer rod ends on the steering linkage will pop off easier and easier over time. Kyosho and Calandra Racing Concepts sell a "no-pop" kind of pivot ball. If you use these with a bit longer screw and a washer under the screw head, you won't have to worry about these ends popping off so easy.

Get the aluminum bearing inserts for the rear diff case. If you use a powerful engine look at getting the HD diff case for the center diff. Although the new 2.0 cases are said to be better than the HD cases.

Use heatshrink, or the "2.0 grease boots" for the Center F/R pinion couplers. Also GMK sells a set specifically for the 8ight and T. Basically just vacuum caps with a hole punched in the center.

Just develop a good maintenance routine to check things over every couple of race weekends and you should be good to go.

+1 for these necessary upgrades. The only thing I haven't had a problem with yet are the diff cases. But if I do, I will change out the stock cases to the HD cases.

One question...Do I have to change all 3 cases to HD cases? I have 2 Losi
8ights (one nitro, one brushless) and a 8ight-T so I'd be looking at buying 9 HD cases!!!
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Old 12-06-2008, 11:47 AM   #1778
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I wouldn't think you would HAVE to change. I think it comes down to how your vehicle is driven. A lot of chop, chop on the throttle probably causes more wear than rolling on the throttle. In nitro racing you always see most people working the throttle quickly through the corners. I think that's where the wear comes from.

Maybe just check your diffs over time. Order one or two of the HD cases. As you rebuild each diff check the cases for excessive wear. Then you could replace if necessary. That way it's easier on the pocket book and easier on time management. For my truggy to start showing wear in the center diff was around 7-8 gallons of fuel.

Of course, high powered engines/motors will cause more wear quickly. So that's my thoughts. Replace them as you go.

Also I would think the new 2.0 cases will fit also. They are supposed to be stronger and last longer. We'll probably start finding out in the next month or two from the people who've had their new 2.0 in use for a while.
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Old 12-06-2008, 11:55 AM   #1779
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I wouldn't think you would HAVE to change. I think it comes down to how your vehicle is driven. A lot of chop, chop on the throttle probably causes more wear than rolling on the throttle. In nitro racing you always see most people working the throttle quickly through the corners. I think that's where the wear comes from.

Maybe just check your diffs over time. Order one or two of the HD cases. As you rebuild each diff check the cases for excessive wear. Then you could replace if necessary. That way it's easier on the pocket book and easier on time management. For my truggy to start showing wear in the center diff was around 7-8 gallons of fuel.

Of course, high powered engines/motors will cause more wear quickly. So that's my thoughts. Replace them as you go.

Also I would think the new 2.0 cases will fit also. They are supposed to be stronger and last longer. We'll probably start finding out in the next month or two from the people who've had their new 2.0 in use for a while.
Thanks for the info...I'll keep this in mind!
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Old 12-06-2008, 03:50 PM   #1780
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!!!!!!!!LOSI 8IGHT T PARTS FOR SALE!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:53 PM   #1781
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Hey new wit the Losi truggy whats the diffrance with the short and long ackerman. what does what?? why two sizes?
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:18 PM   #1782
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Hey new wit the Losi truggy whats the diffrance with the short and long ackerman. what does what?? why two sizes?


the manual has descriptions of everything at the back fyi.
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Old 12-22-2008, 04:32 PM   #1783
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Can someone give a quick rundown of the differences on the RTR and race roller sets? I have someone offering to trade their RTR 8t to me but I was really looking for a race roller unless the differences are minimal.

From a quick glance over the listed specs it appears the differences are not as major on the Truggy as they are on the 8b roller and RTRs. Specs say same chassis but is that really correct?

Also is the Losi 427 a .27 engine? Is it decent at least or total trash? I'd like to get this racing so if there are major items in need of replacing I will hold out for a better offer on a roller.

Thanks!
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Old 12-22-2008, 04:36 PM   #1784
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the differences are the shock towers, upper shock caps, chassis, engine mount ( because the 427 uses rotor start), and i think Servo saver upper arm, and allow chassis brace. I used the 427 and its a pretty good motor. Tuned right, it runs around 200 degrees and has good torque. I get about 11 minutes on a tank.

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Old 12-22-2008, 04:56 PM   #1785
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Not really that big of differences just alot of minor things.

the 427 is a .26 and runs very well for a rtr motor.

the differences are
chassis
shock towers
shock top and bottom caps
shock shafts(just not ti coated)
hinge pins(again no ti)
king pins(yet again no ti coating)
diffs filled with grease(instead of silicone fluid)
Engine mounts(taller to fit the roto start)
Hex hubs(blue instead of grey lol)

Basically the only thing that makes a difference is the durability of the towers and shock caps and the flex characteristics of the chassis.

Neither the race roller or rtr have aluminum chassis braces and that is because they hurt handling and arent needed what so ever.
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