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Old 10-23-2008, 09:55 PM   #1681
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I just bought an used Losi Truggy and I have it all put together but when I started it today it just sat and idled. When I gave it some gas it would rev up a little, no movement though..and then when I let off it would stay rev'd up. The servo arm was moving correctly, but I noticed when I took the clutch apart that I have 4 aluminum shoes instead of the 2 aluminum and 2 composite shoes like the manual mentioned. Could this be the problem or would that be fine??
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Old 10-24-2008, 01:48 AM   #1682
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You've left a lot of possibilities open with a used vehicle. The four aluminum clutch shoes are preferred with some racers. But others don't like them. Can you provide some more info about what you have new and used. What new parts did you put on, and is there any used/dirty/worn parts? Like have you cleaned and refilled the differentials? How are the outdrives and all six driveshafts?

Anyways. If the clutch shoes are too worn out, they could be mushroomed on the sides of the clutch shoe. This will cause them to drag on the flywheel. They won't engage soon at all, and once they do engage the shoes will not want to return back to rest position.

It sounds like you didn't set up the clutch for the engine, someone else did? I would hope they put new clutch shoes and springs in for you. If they didn't you might start there.

Is the clutch bell ok? The clutch bell (cb) should be clean inside. The bearings shouldn't have any play when they are in the cb. Use a scotch brite pad, or rough cleaning pad of some sort to clean and prep the cb. Use some brake clean or motor spray when you are finished.

If this does not fix your problem it's time to start looking at what else the previous owner left for you. LOL.
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:14 AM   #1683
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The whole clutch set-up is brand new as that was the only thing that I didn't get with the truggy. I took it apart twice and put it back together but still had the same result. I will check the outdrives and drive shafts and make sure those are in good condition.
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Old 10-24-2008, 08:03 AM   #1684
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If the shoes are brand new I would start looking at if they are facing the right way. If put on properly, there is a dot on the shoe itself that indicates the wear point and the direction of the shoe. If you do not see the dot, probably facing the wrong way. If you look at the clutch head on, the end of the shoe should be off to the right of the pivot point.
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Old 10-24-2008, 12:37 PM   #1685
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Hey guys, sorry for all the questions. I'm still fairly new to this hobby, but I figure the guys that have this truck would be the best ones to ask rather than the "rookie forum." As far as the clutch, I ordered some new parts but am going to try it a few more times before they get here.

This question refers to the diffs. If I hold three of the wheels, how easy should it be to the turn the 4th wheel? I thought someone telling me on my 18T that it shouldn't turn but I wasn't sure if that was an electric only thing or not. When I do it, it turns fairly easy. Also when I spin one wheel the others ones turn but it takes a little while to get the other ones go and they don't spin nearly as fast as the one I manually spin. All your opinions are apprecaited guys!!
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Old 10-25-2008, 12:19 AM   #1686
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Sounds like the diffs are just fine. Since each diff has different oil, the wheels will spin differently. Also since you are "loading" one tire by hand and the others are free--wheeling, they will spin differently. Just be sure all four spin in the same direction. LOL. I don't think a Losi diff can be assembled backwards though. Other buggies can, it's awesome to watch them dance all over when someone installed a diff backwards.

Anyways, Nenderle are your shoes facing the direction in this link? http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA9109

One other thought I have is, do you have the flywheel nut tightened fully? It seems like your engine is revving up with out forward movement, then as you let of the engine won't idle back down quickly? Which means your engine is free revving without spinning the flywheel.

You should use very little loctite on the engine crank threads. Then put the flywheel on, followed by the flywheel nut. I use large pliers to hold the flywheel and use the 4-way wrench or 8mm nut driver to tighten the crap out of that nut.
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Old 10-27-2008, 06:02 PM   #1687
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Hey guys, so what's the "hot" lipo set-up for my 8ight? Looking for everything from the charger/balancer, regulator, brand/type of battery to use. Want a charger that will handle all battery types. Does the regulator need to live outside the receiver box to better dissipate heat? I saw the Pro Tek regulator on Amain had a green/red indicator to warn you when it's time for a re-charge...anybody using that? Pics greatly appreciated...THANKS!!

oh yeah...also looking into a lipo for my OFNA truggy starter box. THANKS!!
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Old 10-27-2008, 07:27 PM   #1688
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Here is my opinion and what I run in my 8ight's. i run the Losi batteries and regulators, for a charger I have a Checkpoint TC 1030 charger. To me this is as good of a setup as you can completely customize your charging settings the same as the really expensive chargers plus its a budget high end charger for every type of batteries and charges up to 4 cell lipo's. As for battery and regulator your best route is to go with the Losi stuff made for the 8ights.
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Old 10-28-2008, 12:02 AM   #1689
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HT batteries has a great setup for everything from radio to car to starter box, plus a balance charger. I think they're HTBatteries.com or something like that.

For the last 1 1/2 years I've been using the Protek Rx packs from Amainhobbies. Also some of my vehicles have the Common Sense Rx batteries. All of them work great.

For the radio I also have a protek and common sense lipo.

For my starter boxes I use the HT batteries 2100 14.8v lipo.

I use the Duratrax ICE chargers. I've been reading good things about the new Duratrax Onyx chargers though.

At first I was hesitant to start using lipo batteries because of the frikkin price. But then I started finding them on sale, and discounted here and there. So now I only use lipo. Awesome.
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:22 AM   #1690
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Here is the ice....like mentioned above is a great charger.

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=3684

This one is a pretty good charger. I noticed lastnight it does not do gel cell but does do lead acid>

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=4947


Here is the ONYX, not sure if it's the model mentioned but the cheapest of the three. Looks like it has some nice features.

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...dproduct=10590

They have several models it looks like starting around $35 and going up to $90
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:58 AM   #1691
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I use a MRC 989 for charging duties..1-8 cell lipo ......Losi and protec 2000 packs for my RX's......Protec 3300 for my 3pk....PolyRc 2100 and GE 2200 for my starter box's......also some Lama V2 900mah packs that i got for running quali's practice... or w/e....there Tiny and were Dirt cheep...10$ for both
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:05 PM   #1692
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How well do LiPo's last? The reason I ask is because the LiPo in my RRR on-road almost lasted a season. I'm thinking fuel got in the battery though.
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:56 PM   #1693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsquish View Post
How well do LiPo's last? The reason I ask is because the LiPo in my RRR on-road almost lasted a season. I'm thinking fuel got in the battery though.
over a season no problem.
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Old 10-28-2008, 06:11 PM   #1694
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This is common nitro sense I'm sure but I'm having a problem with it. When I give my truggy throttle, it kills...what should I be check?
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Old 10-28-2008, 06:14 PM   #1695
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Check the clutch springs to see if any of them are broken.
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