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Old 09-13-2008, 01:46 PM   #1606
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Default help with rear slop

question for you truggy people...

Just got a used 8ight-t and I can't get rid of rear tire slop, tried replacing rear carrier and bearings and new turnbuckkles and tierods and even using shims, only thing I haven't tried is getting a new cvds...
It moves about 2degrees side to side... is this normal? coming from onroad,I like everything tight,should I even worry about it?


thanx for your input
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Old 09-13-2008, 01:56 PM   #1607
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could it happen because the servo doesnt have enough torque to pull the brakes???
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Old 09-13-2008, 02:36 PM   #1608
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could it happen because the servo doesnt have enough torque to pull the brakes???
The servo is most likely not the problem. Well, unless it's under 100oz.-in. Then it might have some trouble overcoming forces and friction. MIGHT. I'd suggest going with adjustments.
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Old 09-13-2008, 02:45 PM   #1609
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question for you truggy people...

Just got a used 8ight-t and I can't get rid of rear tire slop, tried replacing rear carrier and bearings and new turnbuckkles and tierods and even using shims, only thing I haven't tried is getting a new cvds...
It moves about 2degrees side to side... is this normal? coming from onroad,I like everything tight,should I even worry about it?


thanx for your input
Are you referring to camber? Or the whole tire is actually moving in and out a bit? If it's camber, that's about normal. A brand new out of the box vehicle will have 1-2 degrees of play. Check each and every part, piece, screw, pin, etc... for an excessive amount of play. But also make sure the parts move nice and smooth. Coming from on-road I'm sure you know about binding and getting the arms and shocks to move free. Oh, and I think 1/8 racing in general is like this. Loose. Loose cars, loose parts, loose tracks. It seems some people actually go overboard trying to keep their cars fresh and tight. But keeping the vehicle clean, free, and a bit loose is the easiest way to race off-road.
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Old 09-13-2008, 11:37 PM   #1610
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air8 thanx for your input

I was worried that every corner it would change camber as it went in or out.....but if it's "normal" then it's all good
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Old 09-14-2008, 10:44 AM   #1611
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have any of you guys broken the driveshaft pin(the press-fit one) and does losi sell them seperate, i'm tired of buying new driveshafts for $30 when all i need is the pin. and losa3518 drive pin set does not have them in it.
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Old 09-14-2008, 01:59 PM   #1612
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have any of you guys broken the driveshaft pin(the press-fit one) and does losi sell them seperate, i'm tired of buying new driveshafts for $30 when all i need is the pin. and losa3518 drive pin set does not have them in it.
Mine just wear down. I've had them as bad as half way worn down but never broke. Sucks to hear about that. Use Mugen pin 3x13mm pins.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4436
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Old 09-14-2008, 02:05 PM   #1613
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thanks air8 i'll talk to my mugen buddies.
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Old 09-14-2008, 07:22 PM   #1614
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thanks air8 i'll talk to my mugen buddies.

you'll also be needing a Pin press of some sort....and Make sure to Use RED loctite......the Liquid kind....the Gel wont cut it....and be generous.

PS Air8 Thx for covering for me this weekend...went for a little drive down to Gravity Ridge in MN...check it out at mnnitroseries.com...kinda intense to say the least.
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Old 09-15-2008, 06:27 AM   #1615
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you'll also be needing a Pin press of some sort....and Make sure to Use RED loctite......the Liquid kind....the Gel wont cut it....and be generous.

PS Air8 Thx for covering for me this weekend...went for a little drive down to Gravity Ridge in MN...check it out at mnnitroseries.com...kinda intense to say the least.
Cool. The picture of the track there at Gravity Ridge has a sweet rythm section just off the front straight. Looks like fun.

I just replaced all the outdrives and press-in pins for the RC Pro finals. I'll have a couple more races till then, but I should be good to go. All spare shafts, and shafts in use have new pins now. Yeah!
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:38 PM   #1616
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finally got it running, my neighbors r lucky im a nice guy cuz its late and i want to tune it better. i have a feeling its going to be harder to tune it then i thought it was going to be.
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:41 PM   #1617
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Just remember to err on the rich side--not the lean side. And check your vehicle often for loose screws and other parts. And ENJOY.
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Old 09-17-2008, 01:51 PM   #1618
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sorry for all the questions but what is a safe operating temp for a 427???what is to much?? using mc-9 and 30% odonnell
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Old 09-17-2008, 04:22 PM   #1619
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As long as the engine is somewhere between 200-280 and producing smoke, you're good. Generally, my motors will run around 230-250.
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:56 AM   #1620
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I just had to retire my 427. I've been running it since November '06 when the 8ight first came out. There is almost 20 gallons with one resleeve and one carb rebuild. It has become inconsistent on the track so I can't use it anymore.

It was a great engine when I got the 8T. Worked perfect in the truck. On hot days my temps were around 260 and on winter days the temps was more like 230.
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