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Old 10-22-2007, 12:27 PM   #106
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toejam,

We'll need to compare notes, b/c it looks like we'll be running the same motor - as soon as mine ships from the seller...

I have a JP-3 and a PCR 2027 pipe. I also have a sportwerks 053 pipe that's in good shape. I shall soon have a JP-1 pipe in a few days as well ($40 shipped - can't beat it!).

So, I'd like to hear what the preferred pipe is for this motor relative to the ones I have at my disposal!



Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-22-2007, 04:08 PM   #107
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not a fan of the jammin pipes ! an 086 pipe with round header such as dynamite o86 is the best feel on 5 ports for me , also order part # 8001 from novarossi to make it a turbo very good
later , houston
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Old 10-24-2007, 11:59 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCRacing.com.au View Post
Yeah everyone I know is running either a #5 or a P3 OS plug in their plus21.
They are a newer version of the p5 which had the same problem of flaming out.
The hotter plug seems to be better to keep a nice tune and keep them running without flaming out.
I'm running a #5 also and it works well.
I just changed my rear bearing and bought a TKO from a guy on here which is pretty loose for a new bearing.
It has twice the play of a Novarossi bearing so i just bought a novarossi one onstead.
How do the Boca Steel ones go?
Anyone else tried any other good bearings with luck?

Anyone running hotter glowplugs than stock needs to make sure they know how to tune the engine, UNLESS it is really colder atmospheric temps outside than normal! Hotter plugs will stay running on a bad tune and overheat in most runs after 5 minutes!! Tune the engine with the stock or one step colder. It will be rich when cold and may cut out, BUT, this is because the engine is COLD! When running the engine on a 10-15 minute main, you need to make sure the engine is tuned to run its peak performance after about 5-8 minutes of constant running. Check the temps when refueling. Don't tune your engine so it fires up and idles perfectly COLD! This would indicate a perfect temp glowplug COLD, but under race conditions, it will run too hot. If the temp is too high, you need to go richer or step down the glowplug temp. You will may also notice more top end with colder glowplug in the engine. Novarossi's run like crap cold when raced tuned and need constant throttle input to maintain running when first started. Look at most pro races, and you'll see the driver;s are constantly revving the engines before the start. They are trying to get the engine hot and not stall out. Trust me, O.S. on the other hand, likes to run hot plugs from the factory, which is pure death to an engine once running in a long race. I have been breaking-in a new P5X with stock #6 glowplug. The power is coming up more and more, tuned rich. I also have a O.S. V-Spec thats being broke-in. This engine came with a hot P3 glowplug. It is at half gallon mark, runs like a pig rich, and any leaning makes it run close to 250F. I will be installing an RB #6 or #7 to keep temps down and continue break-in. Always try to run cold plugs and rich. Only lean out to maintain good temps and power. This will make sure you have constant lube for the engine. My current P5X has 3.5 gallons, and runs down everything right now on my local track, O.S., RB, etc. My only comp is my old Picco Omega and a friends IDM modified Picco 5 port.

From RB Concepts for example:
"The smaller the engine(size), the hotter the glowplug.
The more Nitro, the colder the glowplug.
The hotter the outside temperature, the colder the glowplug.
The more RPM(long straights), the colder the glowplug."


As for the bearings, you need to check the ABEC rating. The higher the ABEC number, the tighter tolerances the bearing has.

Last edited by ezveedub; 10-25-2007 at 12:12 AM.
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Old 10-25-2007, 04:17 AM   #109
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Houston,

The Jammin' pipes may not be the absolute best performing pipes out there, but they are indeed the most durable. For the hack fest that is sometimes called 'club racing', I prefer them.


Last edited by rabidsquirrel; 10-25-2007 at 12:36 PM. Reason: grammer
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:23 AM   #110
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Not having a go at you, but my experience with this engine has been the complete opposite. My engine ran a lot hotter on a "cold" plug. It was tuned only at operating temperature and I had to lean it right out to get anything out of it. Anything richer and it would bog down on fuel. Switch to a hotter plug, the temps have come down and the engine runs much better.
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Old 10-25-2007, 12:35 PM   #111
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OK... I just received the new-to-me motor (Pre-owned, not fully broken-in, 1/2 gallon or less through it).

It is sweet! Looks brand new. Seems very tight and smooth!

Very excited about running her in ASAP!

Can't wait to try different pipe combinations with it.
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Old 10-25-2007, 12:41 PM   #112
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After talking to Rob over at Nitrohouse, he recommended that I pick up an 053 for it.

I will let you guys know how it goes this weekend
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Old 10-25-2007, 06:22 PM   #113
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After talking to Rob over at Nitrohouse, he recommended that I pick up an 053 for it.

I will let you guys know how it goes this weekend
Let us know. I was told the same pipe number from a friend who is a Novarossi dealer.
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Old 10-25-2007, 06:30 PM   #114
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Not having a go at you, but my experience with this engine has been the complete opposite. My engine ran a lot hotter on a "cold" plug. It was tuned only at operating temperature and I had to lean it right out to get anything out of it. Anything richer and it would bog down on fuel. Switch to a hotter plug, the temps have come down and the engine runs much better.
What was your ambient temp and humidity where you run? For me, in SoFLA, its cold plugs that work the best. Not the same engine, but we dropped a RB #5 turbo plug in an OS V-Spec, after yanking the super hot stock P3 plug. It was boggy at first, so we leaned it on both needles, more speed and temps are now coming up to 200 with a cold plug. It was 235+ with same needle settings & P3 hot plug and ran like a pig. We had to richen it to keep the temps down., but had no power. I guess its just different for us here in FLA.
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Old 10-25-2007, 09:08 PM   #115
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That's probably the difference, I'd have a much lower humidity than you. Currently ambient is 20.3C with 42% humidity. If it does get warm here, it's a very dry heat. Engine temp on cold plug was about 255 when I could get it to run but it wasnt very quick. Hot plug would be down around 200-210 but im still yet to fully lean it out as I wasnt confident with the fuel I tried last time out. I'm racing on sunday, so I'll get some readings and let you know.
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Old 10-25-2007, 09:41 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCRacing.com.au View Post
Yeah everyone I know is running either a #5 or a P3 OS plug in their plus21.
They are a newer version of the p5 which had the same problem of flaming out.
The hotter plug seems to be better to keep a nice tune and keep them running without flaming out.
I'm running a #5 also and it works well.
I just changed my rear bearing and bought a TKO from a guy on here which is pretty loose for a new bearing.
It has twice the play of a Novarossi bearing so i just bought a novarossi one onstead.
How do the Boca Steel ones go?
Anyone else tried any other good bearings with luck?
remember what i told you about the tko bearings for the plus crank engines 14.5x26mm they are looser than the worn out ones you pull out of the engine !!!!
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Old 10-25-2007, 09:57 PM   #117
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remember what i told you about the tko bearings for the plus crank engines 14.5x26mm they are looser than the worn out ones you pull out of the engine !!!!
yeah and he has a go at me trying to say i sold him fucked ones
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:13 PM   #118
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i have had good luck with every other tko bearing except the 14.5x26mm ceramic plus 21 bearings !! but those ones suck when they are brand new
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:22 PM   #119
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alot a people recommend Boca steel bearing whats wrong with there ceramic bearings do they have problems
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Old 10-26-2007, 05:49 AM   #120
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havent ordered any of those to try yet , maybe i will . heard they arent the best either though
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