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Old 06-02-2006, 09:06 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Stratus
I'm running

7-5-3 for diff fluids
Xray 1.5 pistons drilled to 1/16th with AE oils
35 front (trying 30 in the front next time) and 30 in the rear
Red springs (will try Xray Blues next time out)
2.5 degree rear toe...
shock postioning is outter on both front and back on the arms... most inner position on the front tower on the bottom row, most outer in the rear on the bottom row.
Ride height is level upfront and just below level in the rear
1.5 degree camber all the way around
1 degree toe out

Should be a decent start for you if you get one...

I like the 30wt oil up front better than the 35wt thats forsure... I am also now running 1.5 degree toe out up front. I will be trying the Xray light blues on Sunday. I also want to try Xray Blues up front and TTR reds in the back aswell... I will let you guys know how it is...

Aaron
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Old 06-12-2006, 04:42 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Stratus
I like the 30wt oil up front better than the 35wt thats forsure... I am also now running 1.5 degree toe out up front. I will be trying the Xray light blues on Sunday. I also want to try Xray Blues up front and TTR reds in the back aswell... I will let you guys know how it is...

Aaron
Uh - Bump ,,,I'm still with 35 all around and 7 7 3, frt 1.5 out Rr 2.0? In
Red's all around and shimmed! Titan Tech flt chassis..
From driving T-Maxx & L.S.T. this car is like VELCRO! but let's go violent!!
My Thk's to recent Marshall's Experiance,,,,,,,,,,Straydog Racing.
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Old 06-14-2006, 06:47 PM   #63
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hey hey,

do many of you guys use the stock "anti-bumping" pistons that are supplied with the kit? i'm having a bit of trouble trying to figure them out, and i wonder if they're worth the effort.
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Old 06-14-2006, 09:31 PM   #64
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I found them kind of stiff on the tunnell chassis car even at 30W
But their freaking awesome with 35W on the longer flat car
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Old 06-14-2006, 09:46 PM   #65
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I've been using 45 Losi in the front and 42.5 losi in the rear with the stock red springs and find them pretty darn good. I'm also running the inner hole on the lower arm and found a pretty good difference there. The track I normally run on is pretty rough and this seem's to work pretty well for me.
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:05 PM   #66
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Sure do agree ,,went 40w all then 45w frt moved the frt btm in and Helped
take 11 seconds off!!, 'Made the B Main' 3rd Kamloops C.O.R.C.S.
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:45 PM   #67
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Good job. I went another route to find that "perfect" set up.I ended up getting the XB8. I'm going to run it for now. I really do like it alot better. Parts are more expensive to get your parts bin full but you need them ALOT less. I broke a rear arm all weekend in Medicine hat. I did more than that with my S3 the week before, with a new arm on it.

I'm not giving up on the S3 yet. I still have it and pretty much everything to get a second car up and running, but I needed a change for a few reasons.
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:10 PM   #68
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Well my second time out on the new flat chassis S3 made a huge difference. The car handled quite well and needs only minor tweaking. I managed to take TQ in Kamloops at the c.o.r.c.s race. I wish I had straydog as my pit guy. He was very helpfull to me when something came up even though I neded up fixing the problem on my own. He was right there to help if needed. Thanks again bro.
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Old 07-09-2006, 08:05 PM   #69
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This is the best season I've had racing anything.
Racing the 1/8 scale is sooo much better than the "just practice" stuff I did last year.
Sticking to 1/8 only is helping my driving.
The Box chassis was ideal for me to learn what it takes to drive one.
Man did I ever Drive! that car into the face of some quad's.
The flat chassis is like driving a Cat compared to a Brick,
But I'm tired of spitting all the radio/servo mnt screws
the ctr diff and frt and rear diff inboard screws.
Going to start with all new cases and fastners again this week. Sure has a nice Eng' Mnt'
Now about that XB8 TQ, You know I want it, gotta get it, breathtaking it is.
Although I'm sticking with the Cat for now, got a realy full kit with all R.P.M.'s
ex-factory racer kit. Only had to buy a new air filter mnt after the FIRE this week.
Allway's allway's run that little fuel gutter drain hose is all I'll say
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Old 07-12-2006, 05:03 PM   #70
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Going to go ,,45W Rear ,all Blue srping's,more Rr Camber.
wish me luck, race ya later
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Old 07-24-2006, 03:27 PM   #71
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Well it turn's out I was glad I did the camber/toe chg's first,
Realy helped with what I needed,Except,
Issue's with servo's and servo arms and Thrtl'/Brk linkage
was allmost too much!T.T.R. Body don't fit,, collisions can suck.

Here I am the club 1/8 scale point's leader[WooHoo! thk's guy's]
and I DNS my main for a run-away! DSM,?Spect-run,?what ever,,
Durring warm-up lap's this show's up!! In front of the same Marshal.

1st some late turn-out on the Strg' and Poor Brk, Then,
Throtle is on last sig!,? no Brk! Steering on last sig!
Did it twice, Luck to Realy parked it under the tile the 2nd time!

I found an intermitent open in the Neg wire of the jumper wire I use
outside the box,, Zero/Interupted Power to Rec = Last Sig to servo.
That's my second jumper wire failure, bugger's never make a season.
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Old 08-01-2006, 10:38 PM   #72
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Here is my setup sheet from the last GLORC's series race at Action Hobbies Kingsville.

Aaron
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Last edited by A_Stratus; 03-30-2008 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 12-20-2006, 07:38 AM   #73
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bump
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Old 01-01-2007, 06:55 AM   #74
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Just acquired a used S3 . Purchased a short flat chassis conversion & looking for a good set-up for a indoor clay track. I think the steering mod has been done....but would like to see a pic if it was done correctly. Thanks
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Old 04-15-2007, 02:42 AM   #75
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Has anyone tried the TTR Alum' servo saver?
I've got no problem with the stock unit. Just got a chance to buy one..And support my LHS
It's Beautifull...but i wonder if it will open/work as good as the stk one?
Probabley at least hold center better.

Don't know of any steering mod's beside the upgrade of the weak drag link
and using the shortest/none standoff ballends at the wheel end of tie rods
to keep wheels from rubbing tie rod ends.
Keep the extra long bolt in this location as it is the strg stop against the arm
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